Paris Parfait

La vie Parisienne

How does anyone decide to live where they are now? Usually a combination of fate, luck and circumstance. For me, it was love, a spirit of adventure and an unexpected opportunity.

Six years ago my daughter and I were living in London with my British (then) fiance. He was offered a job secondment with an international organisation in Paris; supposedly for eighteen months to two years. We thought it would be an amazing opportunity, not only in terms of career for my fiance, but in quality of life for us all. My daughter was attending the American School of London and studying French. It didn't seem like such a stretch for her to finish out her high school years at the American School of Paris.

You might think that moving to another country would be a huge wrench, especially for my daughter. But because of my work as a journalist, she's traveled extensively and moved many times in her young life. After growing up in a small town, I chose the road less traveled. Four countries and six U.S. states have been home at one time or another. When one becomes accustomed to living out of suitcases, moving yet another time is annoying, in terms of the actual physical move required, but exciting, in terms of prospects for new adventures and experiences.

We all adjusted to Paris in different ways. For my fiance, it was his first time living outside England. He took to Paris like a duck to water, lapping up the smells and colours and joie de vivre of this beautiful city. My wonderfully resilient daughter quickly made new friends, adapted to the new school's academic program (international baccalaureate classes) and even won grudging respect of a hyper-critical French teacher. She came to love living in Paris more than in London.

As for me, adapting to life in Paris was a little more challenging. For the first time in my adult life, I didn't have a job. After 15 years of being a single mom and therefore responsible for every single thing, I struggled to adjust to being financially dependent on another. As a non-European Union citizen, I was not allowed to work in France other than in extremely limited circumstances. So I had to come up with a new game plan.

You might think that I'd be thrilled at suddenly having free time on my hands to do as I pleased. You'd be wrong. I couldn't relax and read a book or watch a movie. I felt guilty: guilty that I wasn't working; guilty that I wasn't accomplishing anything much (at least not in my own eyes); guilty that my French wasn't very good and I couldn't be bothered to take a refresher course. In short, I didn't seem to be adapting very well to living in one of the world's greatest cities. This floored me, because I'd lived in the Middle East, so completely foreign to my own culture, with no real problems.

In an attempt to carve out a life of my own in Paris, I started taking long walks and wandering into antique shops. I observed different styles and periods of furniture and began finding bargains to feather our nest. And nest is the operative word. For the first time in my adult life, I really was nesting; I had a partner I could love and trust; I was staying in one place and decorating our apartment with treasure and trinkets discovered on my walks. Over time, I amassed a lovely collection, with some valuable antiques mixed with unique collectibles and curiosities.

I also started to write again; if I wasn't allowed to have a steady job, at least I could freelance. This more than anything made me feel like I'd recaptured my life------before Paris, I hadn't realised how much my self-image was inextricably linked to my work.

As much as I now love living in Paris: the rich tapestry of life; our friends; the food; the wine; the art; the beauty; the truly vibrant mosaic of this city that's such a strange blend of innovation and tradition - it's a temporary home at best. When one has lived many places, you're never truly at home anywhere. A part of you will always miss a place or places where you no longer reside.

So when my husband and I move again, I'll create yet another nest. My daughter has fashioned her own nest (albeit a temporary one, until she completes her college degree) in Savannah. Life is static; it's about change and adapting to new environments and circumstances.

The beautiful things that reflect our interests and personalities make life more pleasurable; more interesting. But they're just things and things can be replaced. In my nomadic lifestyle I've learned that a home is not about fine furniture, antiques, real estate or even location. A home is about love. We carry our homes with us, within our hearts.

This piece was written for Sunday Scribblings.

Westward bound

I am headed across the pond to the lovely Southern city of Savannah, Georgia. If posts during the next few days are infrequent, that means I'm having lots of adventures! Or maybe just sitting on a veranda, fanning myself in the stifling humidity, while sipping mint juleps or glasses of iced tea. Or walking through the city's 21 squares shaded by giant oaks, with Spanish moss hanging from their branches.

Or checking out the local antiques shops and art galleries. Or going out for Southern comfort food at Lady & Sons or seafood at The River House. Or taking a twilight ghost walk, looking for Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil. Or doing nothing much, other than spending precious time with my daughter. No doubt you'll hear about some of these activities in future posts. Please stay tuned!

April showers

At the moment, Paris is awash in April showers. The taupe silk parasol (above) was more likely to have been used to protect a pale complexion from the sun's rays than as an actual parapluie or umbrella. The parasol features hand-embroidered designs and dates from the late 19th-century. It is among the many antiques and curiosities for sale at Vestiges du Jour, a local antiques shop.

These 19th-century French chairs are upholstered in heavy beige linen, with needlepoint floral designs. In Paris, one might expect to pay about 1500 euros for the pair. In the U.S., the price likely would quadruple, due to shipping container costs and the local dealer's profit margin. That's one reason so many Americans come to Paris searching for their own antiques-----obviously prices are lower at the source than in the United States!

Windows and facades

Beautiful arched windows and shuttered facades in Malaysia reflect colonial influences, as well as regional traditions. Note the handpainted flowers and whimsical details, such as ceramic fish and lobsters. Click photos to enlarge.

Photos by Marie-Claire Holmes

"Best year ever?" Not really...

Here’s an interesting twist on a story. Seems Britain’s National Health Service (NHS) has had its “best year ever,” according to Health Secretary Patricia Hewitt. In the next breath Hewitt has warned her cabinet colleagues that hospitals must close if Britain is to afford "hundreds" of expensive new drugs such as Herceptin.

A drug used in treating breast cancer, Herceptin has been denied to some patients because of its high cost. Hewitt said there were "hundreds of new Herceptins in the pipeline.” Last week the NHS body that decides what drugs will be allowed, refused to approve an insulin inhaler for diabetes. Using the inhaler could stop diabetics from having to inject themselves with insulin up to four times a day.

Hewitt’s claims that the NHS has improved have been derided by doctors, nurses and Tory party members. More than 13,000 NHS jobs are expected to be lost because of the £600m deficit, according to the Royal College of Nursing (RCN). Eleven out of 26 health targets will not be met, the RCN noted, while Hewitt insisted health care continues to improve.

It takes a village...

Photo of a time-worn wall mural in Cambodia by Marie-Claire Holmes

A man's village is his peace of mind. - Anwar Sadat 1918-1981

Underground parking

It's not every day that a public parking garage is built beneath a church and small park. But that's happening now at the eglise in our neighbourhood. The peaceful scene pictured, where church-goers worship and children play in the park, has temporarily vanished.

The normally expansive view on Avenue Charles de Gaulle is disrupted on three sides by massive machinery and equipment, while the noise level borders on deafening. The sidewalks are blocked and the park is closed.

How long the underground parking structure's construction will take remains a mystery. As two schools are located directly across the street, even the briefest of construction periods -----for which French builders are not known----- will result in massive traffic jams. C'est la vie!

Sunday Scribblings: Chocolat Francais

Pain au chocolat is a wonderful breakfast treat in France. It is made by injecting chocolate into layers of buttery, flaky pastry. The hand-thrown plate is from Chinon and the eating utensils are 19th-century French silver. The miniature cafe au lait porcelain bowl contains rose sugar, with some rose petals visible. The white porcelain pot de creme (right) holds either hot or cold creme.

A chocolate tart is covered by rich dark chocolate, with a powdered-sugar and pistachio nut border in the shape of a quarter-moon. It will be dessert for tonight's dinner!

The chocolate pots from Limoges, France (pictured) were made between 1892 and 1931. In today's market they range in value from about $300 to $600.

In France, chocolate initially was greeted with skepticism. The French court accepted it only after the Paris Faculty of Medicine offered its seal of approval. For a time, particularly in the 19th-century, chocolate was used for medicinal purposes, treating digestive, pulmonary and infectious diseases. It was also appreciated for its nutritive and aphrodisiacal effects.

In 1615 Anne of Austria, wife of Louis XIII, proclaimed chocolate as the official drink of the French court. The confectionary's popularity grew in 1643, after Spanish Princess Maria Theresa gave her fiance Louis XIV an engagement gift of chocolate, presented in an ornate chest.

The Spanish, who mixed cocoa beans with sugar, vanilla, nutmeg, cloves, allspice and cinnamon, kept their special blend a closely-guarded secret for nearly a hundred years!

Once exposed to the magic elixir, the Sun King Louis XIV and members of his court at Versailles enjoyed chocolate so much that the King appointed a company to manufacture and sell the delicacy. Until 1879, chocolate was available only as cocoa or a liquid. After the thirst for chocolate -----which later included candy----- flouished in Paris, its popularity spread throughout France.

No doubt chocolate's image was influenced by French royalty, who firmly believed the bittersweet substance was an aphrodisiac. Art and literature were infused with erotic imagery said to be inspired by chocolate. The Marquis de Sade had a reputation for using chocolate to disguise the taste of poison. In contrast, the legendary lover Casanova was reputed to use chocolate along with champagne in his seduction techniques.

Today French chocolate remains as popular as ever, with an amazing array of choices well beyond the usual mousse au chocolat and profiteroles. One Paris-based cookbook writer offers a chocolate tour of some of the city's best-loved chocolate emporiums.

Although reluctant to admit it, many French people prefer Belgium or even Swiss chocolate to their own country's specialities. Some chocolate afficionados claim Belgium chocolate is darker and richer than the French product. But chocolate is always a matter of individual taste, with preference changing according to mood, whim or opportunity. It's difficult to be disappointed in a country where choices of chocolate are almost as numerous as the varieties of cheese!

The accidental collection

It all started with a little wall cabinet. Wooden, with a glass door that slid upwards, rather than sideways. Spotted in a Paris antique shop, I thought it would be charming for holding stacks of French 18th-century paperback books, tied with string. The seller told me the hanging cabinet's origins dated to a 19th-century pharmacy.

Two months later I found the white porcelain covered pharmacy jars at an antique shop and a bell went off. Why not put them in the pharmacy cabinet, as they had originally been stored in a similar one? Slowly, but surely at brocantes and antiques fairs other glass measuring jars and mixing vials appeared in my path. All were brought home to fill the pharmacy cabinet.

Now ten pieces reside in the cabinet, with the eleventh, a 19th-century pharmacy funnel, forming part of a library table display. I never intended to collect old pharmaceutical items; it was just a happy accident!

Framing a collection

A collection of 19th and 20th-century portrait frames and miniature decorative boxes adorn a table at local antique shop Vestiges du Jour. Owner Gabrielle Turlan's reflection is visible in the oval giltwood mirror.

Festive table setting

This festive table setting is centered by a glass cloche covering 19th-century blue feather plumes. Silver candlelabras and serving pieces; crystal glasses and ceramic asparagus plates complete the lovely setting at Vestiges du Jour, a local antique shop.

The little red chair

La petite chaise rouge, or the little red chair was my unexpected find of the day.

Walking down the street en route to a shop selling magazines and newspapers, I was delighted to see four little chairs lined up outside a children's clothing boutique.

Often, such a display is part of the store's decoration, designed to entice prospective customers to view their merchandise. Already loaded down with dry cleaning and groceries, I couldn't resist going inside to ask if the chairs were for sale.

The shop owner told me they were all late 19th-century from England, part of someone's much-loved collection for which sadly there was no longer space. So for the equivalent of about $60, I took the well-worn miniature Windsor chair home.

As a child I had a similar red chair, which was lost over the years. No doubt nostalgia compelled me to buy the one today. Maybe someday a grandchild will come along to enjoy it. Meanwhile, the chair will sit next to my desk and hold a stack of books or perhaps a potted plant.

The president's spokesman

What will the resignation of Presidential Spokesman Scott McClellan mean for a White House bent on controlling the press? Jay Rosen focuses on the job aimed at "nullifying" the press in an article Friday in Salon. An excerpt:

McClellan's specialty was noncommunication; what's remarkable about him as a choice for press secretary is that he had no special talent for explaining Bush's policies to the world. In fact, he usually made things less clear by talking about them. We have to assume that this is the way the president wanted it; and if we do assume that it forces us to ask: Why use a bad explainer and a rotten communicator as your spokesman before the entire world? Isn't that just dumb -- and bad politics? Wouldn't it be suicidal in a media-driven age with its 24-hour news cycle?

Read the article here.

Let's not go there...

Joe Conason predicts dire consequences in Iraq, if the Bush administration attacks Iran for pursuing a uranium enrichment program. Following are excerpts of his article "Attacking Iran: Are they nuts?" in today's Salon.

Should Bush ignore their advice and order air strikes, it is possible to imagine a disaster ensuing. At present, the coalition forces in Iraq depend heavily on supply lines that extend for 300 miles along highways from Kuwait and the southern Iraqi port at Basra. Mechanized units of the Iranian military, which currently boasts 800,000 men under arms, would not have far to go to cut those lines as soon as the United States started bombing. And their way into southern Iraq, cutting off the Al-Faw peninsula, would be paved by an uprising of the Shiite militia.

Faced with an Iranian invasion, the British might well be forced to flee. Our strained forces would have to move rapidly southward in large numbers to repel the Iranians -- using equipment that is in poor shape after three years of constant use -- or risk being cut off from their supplies for months. Airlifts are unlikely to suffice, and they would arrive under constant threat from shoulder-fired missiles. As one savvy observer put it, referring to the French debacle in Indochina: "Think of Dien Bien Phu in the desert."

If an attack on Iran provoked full-scale rebellion by the Iraqi Shiites, then an even worse outcome is conceivable. Our forces, along with the tens of thousands of contractors and bureaucrats employed by the occupation, might ultimately be forced to retreat from an Iraq in flames. That would mean horrible casualties and utter humiliation. Think of Saigon in the Green Zone.

And that imagined scene doesn't begin to delineate the costs to humanity of war sweeping across that volatile and essential region. War with the Iranian mullahs may be inevitable someday, though we should hope not. Perhaps we could try talking to them first.

An angel for the cherubs

"Happy those early days, when I
Shin'd in my angel-infancy..."

Henry Vaughan
1622-1695

This 19th-century French wooden angel was
formed from a mould.

Often such a toy was

filled with tiny treats. Children would then

break apart a seam down the angel's body,

much like the pinata of Spanish and South

American customs.

Increasingly hard to find, this lovely cherub

was discovered treasure intact at an

antiquaire in Paris. To preserve the integrity

of the piece, I haven't broken it open.

Although I admit curiosity has me tempted!

An inconvenient truth

Consider the following scenario: Al Gore, president. No, the Supreme Court said that wasn't right; try again. Al Gore, filmmaker. Al Gore a filmmaker? Yes! Gore's remarkable "An Inconvenient Truth" is the cinematic counterpart to his years of research and numerous speeches about dangers of global warming.

In just 80 minutes, the shocking film shows Arctic icecaps melting and Greenland sliding into the sea. The earth's atmosphere is poisoned by greenhouse gases. Photos from space illustrate how dramatically the icecaps change form. The oceans' rise is depicted by computer animation. Major cities such as Calcultta and Shanghai are engulfed by water. The water is projected to cover the state of Florida and even part of New York.

Gore's powerful arguments make compelling viewing. Not only does the film show that polar bears are drowning, unable to reach receding ice floes, it sounds a dire warning: Hurricane Katrina was just the beginning of a long line of (un)natural disasters headed our way. Katrina's victims included hundreds of thousands of people. If Calcutta flooded, millions of evacuees would be forced to seek shelter on higher ground. The film presents the stark reality that if we do not act to stop environmental damage, the future for our children and our children's children will be bleak indeed.

One cannot watch this provocative film without being reminded how George Bush has circumvented almost every environmental protection measure in favour of "protecting jobs." He has tried to derail the Kyoto Protocol, an international agreement setting goals to reduce greenhouse gas emissions thought linked to global warming. While the protocol was agreed in 1997 on principles established in 1992, Bush pulled the United States out of the treaty in 2001. The US is responsible for about 25 percent of the world's emissions, but Bush said implementing the Kyoto Protocol would damage the American economy. To date, US carbon dioxide emissions have increased more than 15 percent above 1990 levels.

Sachets old and new

Sachet bags are affordable little luxuries.

Filled with scented potpourri or dried rose petals or lavender buds, the sachets are usually found nestled in drawers, hanging in closets or dangling from door knobs.

The miniature lace embroidery hoop (pictured top right) was made by my daughter, as a small child.

Although it has long lost its scent, sentimentality makes it impossible to discard. The monogrammed sachet on the right is from Nantes, France and was included in a birthday gift from a friend.

My daughter recently made the sachet (left) of old gold lace, lined with lavender silk. She added a 1950s rose cut from fabric and tied the bag with satin ribbon. These exquisite little touches combine to make even the simplest of objects precious!

Heart of San Francisco

San Francisco Chronicle photo of ruins of City Hall, 1906

Today San Francisco marks the 100th anniversary of the 1906 earthquake. The San Francisco Chronicle is providing excellent coverage of the day's memorial events and tributes.

As someone who lived through the 1989 earthquake (7.1 on the Richter scale), I am convinced that if you must be in an earthquake, San Francisco is the place. Because they know what to do: the police, fire and rescue coordination is fine-tuned and efficient. People are as prepared as anyone can be to face a natural disaster.

Older buildings have been retrofitted to make them more likely to withstand the powerful force of a quake. New buildings have been designed to bounce on giant springs, rocking and rolling with the earth's movement.

San Franciscans are a hardy lot: strong resilient people, who aren't intimidated by occasional tremors. They all know the odds of another big quake. But are they moving away in droves? No. Because San Franciscans have heart and spirit, just like the pioneers who originally settled the city. San Franciscans know the risks and choose to live there anyway.

For seven years I was privileged to call San Francisco home. Oh, how I miss it! Today I salute San Francisco, my favourite American city. Long may it stand!

Finding a balance

No doubt about it: life is a delicate balancing act. Weighing one's priorities; deciding what's most important can vary, according to one's age or unique circumstances.

Many years ago, John Leonard wrote in The New York Times that most people choose to live their lives either like the ancient Greeks or the Romans. Those who live like the Romans, Leonard wrote, are "in a rage to see and do everything; wearing themselves out by making too many appointments with the mysteries."

Those who emulate the Greeks attempt to live their lives in season, achieving harmony and scale, Leonard wrote, "with every day of indulgence followed by a day of moderation."

My preoccupation with achieving balance in my life became prevalent fairly recently. In my '20s, as a newspaper reporter, I resided in Manhattan and traveled to and from foreign capitals. I was living like the Romans, in the sense that I was almost constantly on the go. Luckily, I usually enjoyed the diverse experiences and adventures presented by work and travel in foreign climes.

By the time I turned 40, I had been a single mom for years. Racing around without thought or design hadn't been an option for quite some time. After I met my British husband, life became more stable, rather like the ancient Greeks' preferred philosophy.

Perhaps it was a subconscious desire to persist with a more balanced life-----a reasonably equitable time distribution between work and play----- that led me to begin collecting scales, or "la balance," as the French say.

The top photo is of an English 1950s scale with its original brass weights. The cheery red scale was found in a Seville, Spain flea market. I had to buy another suitcase to get it on the plane to Paris, much to the amusement of my traveling companions. The cherry tomatoes are a kitchen staple, while the miniature Kewpie doll adds a touch of whimsy to our kitchen.

The second "balance de menage" is French, probably late 1940s. Made of white enamel, it still has all its brass weights and measures, stored in an interior compartment. The porcelain measuring dishes for baking (resting in the left pan) also are French.

The third photo is a close-up of the decorative front of a cast iron Napoleon III butcher's scale, circa 1855.

The large scale, which retains its original patina and brass pans, was purchased at a brocante in Chatou, near Paris.

As for finding the right balance? That's a never-ending struggle. Certainly the balance we seek can't be found in a brocante or flea market. Still, it's fun to look! Maybe in the process, I'll discover a new "la balance" for my collection!

A day at the races

At today's races at Hippodrome de Longchamp in Paris, flat-racing enthusiasts were introduced to an impressive horse expected to be a strong contender in major European contests.

Some racing pundits have compared Visindar to Bago, the great French champion and winner of the 2004 Prix de Arc d' Triomphe stakes. Bago is now retired from racing.

Visindar, a three-year-old chestnut beauty, handily won today's Prix du Champ de Mars, hardly breaking a sweat. French jockey Christophe Soumillon (pictured above) rode Visindar to victory. The British-bred horse is owned by the Aga Khan and trained by Frenchman Andre Fabre.

The center photo is of the horseshoe-shaped finish post at Longchamp. In the upper lefthand corner of the photo, the tip of the Eiffel Tower rises above the landscape.

The third photo shows Visindar in Longchamp's famous Winner's Circle, following his extraordinary 2006 season debut.

Spring dish

A simple spring lunch appetizer of asparagus roasted in olive oil and sea salt is wrapped with Serrano ham. My husband, the chef prepared the dish with asparagus fresh from the local market.

Part of a set of six, the plate is 19th-century Majolica made in Sauggemines, France. The plates were designed especially for meals featuring asparagus and/or artichokes. While the plates were found at an antique shop in Paris for less than 200 euros, an identical set recently was offered for sale at the famous Marches aux Puces at Porte de Clignacourt. The price? A rather excessive 1000 euros! Either I got a real bargain, or an unscrupulous antiques dealer was trying to take advantage of unsuspecting buyers.

Hope springs eternal

With Christians and Muslims clashing in Egypt; with floodwaters rising in the Balkans; with crises brewing in Iran and fully underway in Iraq-------sometimes it's difficult to get past the bad news and embrace good tidings.

This Easter Sunday provides us with a poignant reminder of rebirth and renewal; of hope and solace as we face the myriad challenges that encompass our world.

French 19th-century Madonna and Child painted plaster figure.

Sunday Scribblings: When we were wee...

Early 20th-century French child's garden table and chairs in a Paris rooftop garden.

Sunday Scribblings:
When we were wee…

I had braces above my knee;
Made mud pies for tea with Granddaddy;
Sang "chim-chim-cheree." 1

Learned to climb a tree;
Excelled at spelling bees;
Drank gallons of iced tea.

Swam at the “Y” from one until three;
Helped my great grandpa shell peas;
Twirled baton; rode a bicycle effortlessly.

Two brothers were born; then there were three;
Jumped on a pogo-stick, laughing with glee;
Played piano, sang songs in true harmony.

Published a weekly newspaper for all to see;
Gave bike rides to my baby sister, so care-free;
Dreamed of exotic lands across the sea.

No longer wee…

Uphill walks in San Francisco injured my knee;
Baked pies and cakes to accompany the ritual of tea;
Learned what it is to be truly free.

Rock-climbed steep cliffs, higher than any tree;
Adopted the habit of drinking hot English tea;
Realised what matters; the heart holds the key.

Wrote words and missives for everyone to see;
Fought for human rights; for speech to remain free;
Gave birth to a daughter, a great joy for me!

Sent her far off to college, seeking her degree;
Lived and traveled in lands across the sea;
Struggled with foreign languages, until a fait accompli!

Married a wondrous spirit who whispered complicitly:
“Grow old along with me; the best is yet to be.” 2
Et maintenant, ca suffit! 3

1 Song from the musical Mary Poppins
2 Line from Robert Browning's poem Rabbi Ben Ezra, 1864
3 French meaning "And now, it is enough!"

Symbols cross cultures

Taos, New Mexico photographer Howard Rainier's work reminds us that the cross has long been an important object of symbolism for faith and belief in many cultures.

Rainier's sepia-tinted photographs include various aspects of life for Native Americans in New Mexico and other Southwestern states. While Rainier's photos capture some images of tribal traditions, he also trains his camera on routine events of everyday life and the architectural splendour of the Taos Pueblo and other American Indian dwellings.

Photos courtesy of Blue Rain Gallery, Taos, New Mexico. The top photo is part of my collection of Southwest art.

Religious symbolism and folk art

A handmade white plaster cross from Ecuador represents the artist's view of the eternal struggle between good and evil.

Adam and Eve stand apart on either side of the cross. Grasping an apple in its mouth, the Garden of Eden's resident snake is depicted as a constant threat, lurking among the leaves of the Tree of Life.

In turn, the flourishing Tree of Life rests firmly upon the foundation of the cross. The cross depicts the death and rebirth of Christ, which Christians worldwide will celebrate April 16, Easter Sunday.

Iran's nuclear ambitions

Much sabre-rattling about Iran's nuclear ambitions: the Iranian government remains defiant, ignoring widespread condemnation of its uranium enrichment program. The United States, Europe, Russia and China are urging Tehran to halt all nuclear activity, with China announcing it is sending an envoy to Tehran to encourage further negotiations.

After meetings Thursday with Mohammed El Baradei, director general of the International Atomic Energy Agency, Iranian officials appeared to dismiss a United Nations proposal for Iran to suspend unranium enrichment. "Such proposals are not very important ones," Ali Larijani, the chief Iranian negotiator said in a joint press conference with El Baradei. While IAEA inspectors had not seen diversion of nuclear material for weapons purposes, "the picture is still hazy and not very clear," El Baradei remarked.

Iran's declaration that its scientists have enriched uranium took the West by surprise, writes Marian Houk in Al Ahram Weekly.

Normandy sculpture honours soldiers

"The Brave," French sculptress Anilore Banon's magnificent tribute to Americans who landed on Omaha Beach on June 6, 1944. The sculpture rises from the waves at St. Laurent-sur-Mer, Normandy.

Where fallen soldiers' bodies once stained the water red with blood, seven stainless steel columns now emerge from the sea. A group of five columns curves upwards, like soldiers struggling to stand. Two columns extend upright, with the tallest soaring 30 feet. Steel wings beckon to either side. Their gleaming reflective surface celebrates the sea, sand and soft muted light of the area.

Speaking prior to D-Day 60th-Anniversary dedication ceremonies in June 2004 in Normandy, Banon said her intent was that the columns represent "energy coming out of the sand, standing up straight." She said the "sacrifice and courage" of young American soldiers allowed us all to stand. It was the force of their will that three generations later we still have with us," Baron remarked.

Banon said she was affected deeply by childhood visits in the 1960s to the D-Day landing sites. Her concern that French children today should continue to appreciate the Americans' sacrifice inspired her to create the sculpture. "I want to remember that the soldiers died, of course," says Banon. "But I want to remember what they died for. And I want the ones who survived to see that after all these years, we are still free, and we are remembering."

The dedication plaque for Banon's "Les Braves" sculpture contains a poignant message: "The memorial consists of three elements: The Wings of Hope, so that the spirit which carried these men on June 6, 1944 continues to inspire us, reminding us that together it is always possible to change the future."

"Rise Freedom!" the inscription continues, "so that the example of those who rose against barbarity helps us remain standing strong against all forms of inhumanity." The third element the inscription describes is "The Wings of Fraternity, so that this surge of brotherhood always reminds us of our responsibility towards others, as well as ourselves. On June 6, 1944 these men were more than soldiers, they were our brothers."

The memorial was funded by Jean-Paul Delorme, whose family founded Air Liquide. Delorme offered his help after reading a newspaper article about Banon's struggle to secure financial backing. Delorme paid all expenses as 25 workers in Cherbourg constructed the massive columns. When a strike at the factory threatened to halt production, the workers decided that where the sculpture was concerned, they would keep working.

Click photo (taken 4 March, 2006) to enlarge.

The language of travelers expands

English, now the universal language of travelers and global business, will soon encompass a million words. A San Diego, California research institute reports that on March 21 about 988,968 words-----"plus or minus a handful"----- comprise the English vocabulary. The Global Language Monitor says that at the current pace the language is evolving, the one-million word mark will be reached this summer.

While more than a billion people are native speakers of Chinese, about 500 million each claim English and Hindi as their mother tongue. French barely makes it into the top ten language list, with 130 million native speakers.

The widespread use of English is thanks first to dominance of the British Empire, then by the economic, cultural and military influence of the United States and now by the internet. New words are regularly coined or scooped up from other languages, writes Rupert Cornwell in The Independent in London.

Early 20th-century French wicker suitcases, trimmed with leather (pictured).

Tying up loose ends

French employment law

On Tuesday trade unionists and students weren't striking; still they turned out en masse. They were celebrating the French government's withdrawal of a controversial youth employment law, the Contrat Premiere Embauce (CPE). Certainly they achieved a victory of sorts in getting the government to retreat from its supposedly firm position.

But they really don't have much reason to celebrate. Youth unemployment in France remains at 22 percent. When more than 300,000 French citizens are forced to decamp to jobs in London; when administrative positions in Paris draw up to 200 applicants, most of them over-qualified; something is seriously wrong.

The French are determined to cling to their values and traditions-----and their pride-----but they are losing ground in the global marketplace. France needs a strong government that can reach across political divisions and union lobbyists' demands and implement tough reforms.

In an effort to meet that challenge, France's lower house of parliament has just passed a compromise bill to replace the CPE. The measure includes state support for employers hiring young people facing "the most difficulties in gaining access to the labour market." The National Assembly passed the bill by 151 votes to 93. The bill, which contains about 30 amendments, will go to the Senate for a vote before it recesses for the Easter holidays.

Employment Minister Jean-Louis Borloo told Le Monde this week that the bill establishes "the principle of state aid" to employers hiring young people in difficulties on a contract for an indeterminate period." "These provisions concern the youngsters aged between 16 and 26 experiencing the greatest difficulties in gaining access to the labour market," Borloo said, referring to youth lacking educational or training qualifications or living in difficult urban areas.

Prime Minister Dominique de Villepin's big mistake when drafting the CPE was in failing to recognise or consider deep-rooted concerns of trade unionists. Although the law was intially designed to reduce unemployment, job security issues for young people became the focus of protests and demonstrations throughout the country. Of course Chirac's government was elected not so much by people who believed in its politics, but by those voting against the right-wing politician Jean-Marie Le Pen. So in the year left of the Chirac presidency, any alliance-building will be tenuous at best.

De Villepin, a career diplomat, was appointed by Chirac and has never been elected to office. He has had his reputation tarnished by first insisting he would not abandon the CPE, then caving in to public demand. If after the CPE public relations disaster he manages to redeem himself and decides to run for office, his likely challenger will be Nicolas Sarkozy, the outspoken interior minister or perhaps Socialist politician Segolene Royal.

Sarkozy's star diminished slightly for his handling of last year's riots in Paris suburbs, when his descriptions of rioters as "thugs, scum and criminals" was viewed as excaberating tensions. Many socialist party members have urged Royal, the regional premier of Poitou-Charentes to run as the country's first female presidential candidate. Mme. Royal has indicated she would accept the challenge, if asked. However the socialists are not expected to decide on their candidate until November.

Debate over paid e-mail

E-mail’s future is the focus of a debate April 20 in San Francisco. Danny O’Brien of the Electronic Frontier Foundation (EFF) and Esther Dyson, editor of CNET’s technology industry newsletter will discuss the prospects of e-mail taxation and potential consequences of paid e-mail. Would the Internet deteriorate as a platform for free speech? Would spam or phishing decline or increase? The event will be moderated by Open Source Applications founder Mitch Kapor at 7 p.m. Thursday, April 20 at the Roxie Film Center, 3117 16th St., San Francisco. The fundraiser is open to the public. While the suggested donation is $20, no one will be turned away for lack of funds, according to the EFF.

Will e-mail be taxed?

E-mail’s evolution is a hotly-discussed topic among technology industry honchos these days. The Internet Tax Freedom Act of 1998 implemented a moratorium on internet taxation, which remains in force. However media titans like AOL and Yahoo have reignited the debate over internet taxation by adopting “certified” e-mail programs, in which big corporations pay a fee to circumvent spam filters and reach individual members’ in-boxes. While this move has been roundly condemned by various organisations including MoveOn.org and many long-time AOL customers have abandoned its service, AOL has persisted in its determination to make money through e-mail.

Under the two-tiered scheme imposed by AOL and Yahoo, paid messages receive preferential treatment. AOL sends paid messages directly to users' mailboxes, bypassing filters that could divert them to a spam folder or strip them of images and Web links. E-mail arriving from persons included in users’ address books won’t be treated as spam.

Sunday Scribblings: Santa Fe

Faith: the substance of things hoped for; the evidence of things not yet seen. In Spanish, Santa Fe is not just the name of a wonderful city; its purest meaning is "holy faith." In this ever-changing often chaotic world, faith isn't always easy to summon. Real life has a way of knocking the wind from your sails. Faith enables you to get back up and try again. When your heart is breaking after walking away from a man you love, even though he's toxic to your existence; when you're so desperate with grief that an angel in the guise of your late grandmother appears at your side to calm you; when as a single mom you're forced to sell a valuable piece of jewelry for a tenth of its worth to buy food for your child; when a Harley Street doctor pronounces bad news and you're so stunned, you stumble into Liberty of London and buy a Philosophy product called "Grace," ridiculously hoping its name might help blunt the trauma or at least help you face the situation with grace. Faith is what sustains us; it's what gets us through dark days and long nights. Faith is believing that whatever life throws at us, we are strong enough to handle it. Faith sometimes has to do with spirituality more than religion, because faith is subjective. It doesn't matter if you're Christian, Muslim, Jewish, Buddhist, or anything else. Faith comes from within and steadies us through life's challenges and opportunities.

Handmade Spanish crosses, Mexican milagros and antique Italian church ornaments (pictured above) are potent symbols of faith, prayer and miracles.

This piece was written for Sunday Scribblings. Click "Real life" link above to connect to the site.

French strikes, protests achieve aim

It looks as though April 11th will be our first strike-free Tuesday in a month. French President Jacques Chirac announced this morning that the new youth employment law at the center of weeks of protests will be abandoned. Chirac said the Contrat Premiere Embauche (CPE)-----which became law on April 2----- will be replaced with other measures designed to fight youth unemployment.

Throughout France, millions of trade union members and students had staged numerous demonstrations and strikes, protesting the law which allowed employers to hire and fire workers under 26 within a two-year trial period. Prime Minister Dominique de Villepin had initiated the law to stem high unemployment among youth.

The white rabbit

My friend Jutta brought the white rabbit compote dish back from Germany, as a thoughtful Easter gift. White rabbits always make me smile. At our childhood home, my sister and I sometimes rescued white bunnies that had become separated from their mothers and were lost in the snow. In Paris, my husband and I occasionally walk in the Edmond de Rothschild Park that was once part of the Rothschild family estate. We've been amazed to see a huge white rabbit easily equal in size to a medium-sized dog. The rabbit's owner removes the leash and lets it hop about, munching on the grass. Children drawn to the rabbit ooh and aah over its enormous size, while trying to stroke its fur. Oddly enough we see this rabbit once a year, only around Easter. With his droll sense of humour, my British husband swears that the giant white rabbit is cooked and eaten for Easter lunch. He claims that each annual sighting is of a different rabbit, but I'm not convinced. Surely there's only one giant white rabbit hopping around Paris!

Paris Marathon

Early scenes from today's Paris Marathon: runners grab a water bottle, without breaking their stride when passing Roland Garros, home of the French Open tennis championship. At locations around Paris thousands of onlookers, brass bands and other musicians cheered runners from France and countries around the world. The annual event began in Paris in 1896. An Ethiopian man and a Russian woman took top honours in today's marathon.

Iran on Bush's radar?

Frightening news that the Bush administration is secretly planning a possible air attack on Iran. Writing in The New Yorker, respected journalist Seymour Hersh says the Americans have sent undercover forces into Iran, in preparation for an attack. Hersh says there is a "growing conviction among members of the United States military and in the international community, that President Bush's ultimate goal in the nuclear confrontation with Iran is regime change."

Eggs in one basket

"'Tis the part of a wise man to keep himself today for tomorrow and not venture all his eggs in one basket." - Miguel de Cervantes, 1547 - 1616. Throwing caution to the winds, foil-wrapped chocolate Easter eggs fill a 19th-century urn-shaped wire basket. Although the vessel is French, it was found in Little Rock, Arkansas!

Bush hears voice of dissent

It's not often that George Bush listens to those who disagree with him. Even at "town hall" meetings inviting public participation, Republican operatives usually hand-pick the audience for their like-minded views. But at a town hall meeting this week in Charlotte, North Carolina, small business owner Harry Taylor had the president's attention.

Shop window's Easter finery

The window of Vestiges du Jour is dressed in Easter finery, reflecting shop owner Gabrielle Turlan's superb style and flair. The shop in Boulogne-Billancourt on the Western edge of Paris features beautiful antiques and unique curiosities. The child's purple silk parasol is 19th-century, as are the wicker bells hanging from floral branches. Limoges porcelain teacups and saucers, a grey lapin, a rare 19th-century glass pharmacy funnel, a folk art cross from Ecuador and a child's porcelain tea set are among the objets d'art celebrating spring's arrival.

Another window view of Vestiges du Jour features Oriental porcelain, including a lamp, a 19th-century fabric-lined wicker tea basket, a shaving cup and serving trays.

Market day flowers

And these were just the ones that came home with me! Beautiful fresh spring flowers in all their glory! I particularly like the tightly-packed pink and white ranuculus, now preening in a 19th-century English ironstone pitcher. Our local market recently has been subject to "flower wars." One young upstart who took over a choice spot after the favourite flower sellers retired has tried his best to muscle out newcomers, employing some rather unseemly tactics. But other market stall holders wouldn't stand for such bullying. So in the past month a talented florist named Benoit has been welcomed to the market. With his imaginative creations, Benoit is attracting many customers.