Night owls

Night view of La Giralda, Seville

I am a night owl in a city of night owls. Should be a perfect fit, right? I´m fine with staying awake until 2 a.m. if I can sleep until at least 7; preferably 8. But when I´m awakened at 6 a.m. by the hotel staff´s noise while preparing breakfast, followed by motorcycles and garbage trucks, I´m not so pleased. By 8 a.m. the noise became a concert, with more motorcycles, the construction crew down the street and crying babies en route to the creche at the other end of the street. This is where siestas come in handy, I suppose.

The B&B where I was originally booked - and where I am now -is a traditional stucco building, with arched doors and windows and beautiful azuelos. And the room? Well it has a certain rustic charm -make that very rustic. It´s on the ground floor and has 12-foot ceilings and a wrought-iron grilled window covering - at about the nine-foot level. This means I can´t look out the window, so it´s a bit like being in a high-ceiling dungeon.

The television is mounted at the ten-foot level - the only way to watch it is flat on your back in bed, but as the screen is so small, it´s hardly worth the effort. The only light comes from a single overhead fixture, which isn´t enough to illuminate the room properly. As there´s not a single electrical outlet in the bedroom, I have to charge my cell phone and camera in the bathroom.

Last night, after the joy of ironing clothes on the table in the hotel´s small breakfast room, the enterprising manager found an extension cord. So now I can plug the extension cord in the bathroom and iron on the desk in the bedroom! Such fun. I know I shouldn´t complain - these are pretty small annoyances in the grand scheme of things - but I just need more light. It´s depressing not to be able to look out the window or have enough bright light to see what you´re doing. At the moment, there´s no other room available.

The manager has gone out of his way to be accommodating after the little fiasco upon my initial arrival. When I returned with my luggage and told him who I was, he blurted "I thought you were younger!" "Thanks. Thanks a lot," I said. "No, because you were phoning me from the school and I thought you were a student. Also, your voice sounds really young." "I am a student, " I said. "A mature student."

But he´s right about the student bit. Seville is filled with students, most of them college age. Perhaps there will be some fellow "mature students" in my class, which starts Monday.

Dining alone

Dining alone in the evenings is the thing I find most difficult about traveling. I still feel shy when walking into a restaurant on my own - especially since I don´t speak the language. Last night I went into a lovely restaurant and ordered four tapas dishes. Of course, I was able to eat only a third of the food, as the portions were huge and the food wasn´t what I thought I ordered. But it was fine, accompanied by a nice glass of Sangria. And I dined early enough to avoid the 10 p.m. dinner hour for most locals.

On the way back to the hotel, I saw an Yves Saint Laurent bag filled with clothes hangers. Apparently a department store had thrown them out. So I took them to the hotel and showed the manager, who was aghast at the serendipity. Earlier I had requested more hangers, but he´d looked in the housekeeping cupboard and couldn´t find any. Finding the hangers in a French bag did seem a bit odd. I took about 12 of the hangers and asked if he wanted the rest for the hotel. He said as they were really nice, he would take them home.

Joaquin Cortes tonight!

At the end of my first hectic afternoon in Seville, I asked the concierge how I could get a ticket to see the famous flamenco artist Joaquin Cortes perform Mi Soledad Friday night. He phoned me and said tickets were still available at a department store nearby. So after much kerfuffle in finding the ticket office, I got one of the few remaining tickets - for 100 euros! A bit extravagant, but after the day I´d had (see Sassy in Seville) I deserved a treat. No doubt the performance will be worth every centime. It´s at 10 tonight at the Plaza de Toros de Sevilla. That´s the bull ring and as my seat is close to the stage, perhaps I´ll be sitting in the bullring!

Cortes´s performance caps a month-long celebration of flamenco in Seville. Famous flamenco dancers and musicians from throughout Spain have been performing at venues around the city.

Now what to wear, in this heat? Of course I brought all the wrong clothes. Everyone in Seville is walking around in summer things, although the stores are filled with fall clothes. After welcoming my favourite season of fall in Paris, it seems as though I´ve been catapulted back to summer.

Asking directions

You would think I´d be the one needing a map. But so far, three Spanish people have stopped me on the street to ask directions. All I could do is throw up my hands and smile. Realising their mistake, they laughed and walked away.

Meanwhile, the sun is shining on the Guadaquavir, it´s 2 p.m. and I must find a place for lunch!

Comments

[The Bold Soul]

Oh the joys of international travel. On my last trip to Paris, I stayed in the "sister" hotel to the one I stayed in -- and LOVED -- on my first trip, which unfortunately was booked. The sister hotel was just two blocks away so same great neighborhood, same nice people working there, a breakfast room to DIE for (the former wine cave of the original building!). The problem was that our room was apparently the LAST room to get a decorating makeover because it was just horrible and very drab -- all the other rooms we saw there (we glimpsed some of them through open doors when the maid was cleaning) were gorgeous. Also the bathroom was almost bigger than the bedroom.

So, even when you can see photos on a website and when you think you're dealing with a known quantity, you sometimes get stuck with a real dud.

Enjoy your Spanish course!

[Mike]

You are definitely off to a fun start. I have always found when traveling to other countries that quiet hotel bars (whether really drinking or not) and the like are great to find someone equally alone to at least share a meal or two down the road or take off and see a site. Best wishes all around!!

[Jemima von Schindelberg]

you're very brave to still be there. I think after the hotel mix up I would've run back to paris (on my feet, not calm enough to think of planes and trains) sniffling. Beautiful photos though.

[Hundred and one]

People kept asking me for directions in Paris as well!! I did exactly the same as you - threw my arms up in the air and grinned sheepishly.

[Catherine]

It sounds as if you are sticking up for yourself. Hope things to better for the rest of your stay.

[Alexandra]

I'm thinking you need a chaperone on this trip and that it should be me! Fly me over and I can be your lively dinner companion!

[patry]

I, too, am a night owl. It's just about 2 and I'm about to go to bed, but before I did, I wanted to thank you for sharing your adventure. What a stunning picture!

[GoGo]

I just love reading about your experiences. I look forward to coming here.

The eating alone thing when I travel kind of wears on me too. Sorry for the B&B mishap. I know there will be a point in my future while I am walking somewhere in Spain or London and think, why does this look familiar...oh right, its 'cause Paris Parfait wrote about it!

[Amber]

It still sounds like fun! LOL! So funny that he said that to you. *snort* I hope you are able to have a good time soon, but it is good blog-fodder. ;)

:)

[Sophie]

This is so exciting!
I love your adventures and can't wait
to hear about the students -
and the concert -
lucky lucky girl:)

[Colorsonmymind]

I am in a fit of giggles over here. I am sure most of this is so unpleasant but what great material it is:)

Hugs to you

[Di]

Congratulations ... it sounds like a truly superb adventure :)

[Chelle]

Gosh, that's pretty!

[awareness]

Ola Tara!

Enjoy the flamenco.........keep bringing little gifties that serendipitously fall into your path to the Manager and before you know it, you will have all the light you want!! Hope you weekend brings many little moments that feed your musings............
I feel like I'm living vicariously through your Seville adventures.

[AscenderRisesAbove]

So wonderful to stop here and get a quick note every now and then on your adventure in spain. The photos are wonderful too; a thousand words.

[Laura]

Oh dear, oh dear, Ms.T! Well, the flamenco should be fabulous and you've no doubt had a delicious lunch, so I'm hoping things are on the upswing! And make them change your room!!

[Tammy]

Oh Tara I hope they find you a different room! You have a brave, adventurous spirit! Enjoy the concert :) xxoo

[twitches]

This is all sounds wonderful - and personally I loooove eating alone! However, I've never done it in a locale where I didn't speak the language. But it's so relaxing, and I"m not distracted by conversation. I've found that I really enjoy the food more, and the ambience of the place, that way.

[tinker]

I love the serendipitous treasure you found!

When I eat out alone, I usually choose somewhere casual enough that I feel I can read while I'm eating, then I don't feel quite so awkward or alone. Of course, depending on how you were raised, this may or may not seem more comfortable to you. Actually, I have some other ideas that I think might give you a laugh - I'll e-mail them to you.

Tara, you are so brave and adventurous - I can't tell you enough how much I admire your courage and spirit!
xoxo

[Kim G.]

Tara - so sorry to read of the hotel/B&B mishaps in your last post but I hope things get better from this point on. The concert sounds like it will be wonderful and I'm sure that the entire experience will be worth all the early inconveniences. Thanks for sharing this wonderful experience with us all!

[Colette]

Welcome to Spain, fellow Night Owl. You reminded me of my night in Santiago de Compostella, trying to sleep but being kept awake by students singing and shouting until the wee small hours and beyond!

I hope things settle down, and the incredible Joaquin Cortes (I am so envious!) excites your spirits -- oh, he will!

The hangers....it's a very good omen!

XOXO

[Lisa(oceandreamer)]

All I can say is that I look forward to hearing more in the coming days, weeks. Combining learning and adventure is not something many have the opportunity to do....I live vicariously through you in Paris and now in Seville. When you are dining alone just know we're all there in spirit toasting to Monday's beginning!
XOXO

[giggles]

I too, am a night owl and very shy eating alone in restaurants. I would definitely need something good to read while eating alone. Good for you tackling that little hurdle. I foresee many more adventures in the up coming days. You’ve again thrilled us by making the mundane seem interesting….can’t wait to hear more! Sounds like you had a sprinkle of fun too!

Peace and Hugs

[jzr]

Sounds like you are having a wonderful adventure. I too am shy about eating in restaurants alone, but have managed to do it when I have to. Tell me if you get over that one and how!

[Catalina]

Tara.......come on! :) you will find "friends" when you start classes........I just re-started university! all of the students are 25.......but one "old" women and myself....hen she saw me, she told me: oh! it is sooooooooo good you are here! ........What did she meant? I am wondering.....:)
Have fun! and remember that you have done lots of more difficult things.....

[Deborah]

Dear Tara ... what an adventure thus far! Stranger in a strange land and all that ... however, I bet in a week you'll be feeling more settled and orientated. I'm so pleased that you treated yourself to the Joaquin Cortes show--cannot wait to hear all about it! Much love & warm thoughts across the seas ... D

[bella]

Tara, it's those first few days that are the hardest. Like ironing the wrinkles out of your clothes, that's probably what the next few days will feel like, until you find your own groove.
Enjoy the show tonight. I've seen Joaquin Cortes, only on t.v. - he's truly an amazing performer. I love, LOVE the Flamenco. Lucky girl.

[ally bean]

It sounds like you're settling into your new "home." After your initial difficulties, I can imagine that any small thing going right will be wonderful and greatly appreciated.

Enjoy and learn.

[kristen]

I'm very impressed by your sense of adventure dear Tara, being alone in a foreign country and living there to fulfill a goal. Your photos are beautiful and I wish I could sit in a restaurant with you and share tapas, sangria and good times. Like you, I can do well on my own for most occasions, but dining isn't one of them. Given the opportunity, I usually skulk alone in the room and eat. I love your stories dear heart!