Paris Parfait

Walking the ramparts in Montreuil-sur-mer

Ivy grows in a heart shape surrounding an indentation in stone walls.

A bridge to the castle crosses over what was once a moat, but is now filled with verdant green grass. Montreuil-sur-mer was built in Roman times, when the sea ran up the estuary of the Canche. The first protective ramparts were built in the 9th Century by the Count of Ponthieu. In the 10th Century, Montreuil became the main sea port of the Capétiens.

From the 11th-13th centures, the city was renowned further for its cloth industry. Its eight churches with a remarkable collection of saints' relics drew pilgrims from far and wide. In 1186 the royal castle - of which only two towers remain - was built under charter granted by Philip Auguste.

As the estuary filled with silt, the port fell silent. Montreuil emerged from the Hundred Years’ War in ruins. The town was plundered by Henry XVIII of England and Charles V of Spain, who laid siege but were rebuffed by the medieval walls. In 1586 much of Montreuil's citizens succumbed to the plague.

Under Francois I, the town was recaptured and its fortifications modified. It subsequently became a major stronghold against Spanish forces. During the reign of Louis XIV, the ramparts were strengthened and modernized. In 1837 the western flank of Napoleon's Camp of Boulogne was headquartered in Montreuil.

This former moat had water lapping against the walls to keep intruders at bay.

Over time, this stone wall has acquired a patina of moss and lichen. It is located in a shaded area along the path leading to the castle.

Plants grow through spaces in the wall leading to the remnants of a castle, now a museum.

The view when exiting interior walls of the fortress.

The expression "storming the ramparts" came from invading armies trying to scale fortified exterior walls surrounding a city, such as these at Montreuil-sur-mer.

An interior view of the ramparts, with narrow openings through which one can glimpse the valley below the citadel.

These narrow crevices were used to fire weapons in warning against unwanted visitors.

Trees at one end of the fortress overlook the green valley.

French elections rife with innuendo

While walking along the ramparts in Montreuil-sur-mer on Thursday, David and I spotted these workmen using high-powered hoses to remove all traces of presidential election posters from metal signs (click photo to view detail).

With one week to go until the second round of voting, the race is becoming remarkable more for issues that are not discussed openly than those that are. In an elaborately-staged rally Sunday in Paris, Sarkzoy tried to distance himself from government policies which he has long supported. The rally was attended largely by the French elite - including General DeGaulle's son, the French rocker Johnny Hallyday - who claims Switzerland as his residence, due to high taxes in France - and the actor Jean Reno, along with the sort of crowd found at Bush rallies - pre-selected and agreeable. Sarkozy also criticised the Chirac government of which he is now a part.

In contrast, Segolene Royal spent her Sunday touring French health care facilities, picking up the endorsement of the emergency medicine director who blew the whistle about deplorable conditions in French hospitals during the heatwave of August 2003, in which 11,000 people died.

The limits of French press freedom are being tested, as big stories - particularly vis a vis the state of presidential frontrunner Nicolas Sarkozy's marriage - go unreported. French journalists are not allowed to comment on personal lives of politicians.

Time is up...help protect Darfur!

After the genocide in Rwanda, the international community vowed "Never again!" Yet similar atrocities are happening right now, this very minute in Darfur. To learn how you can help, visit the International Rescue Committee's website.

From the Independent on Sunday, London:

For Zakiya, gathering firewood means a five-hour trek and the risk of discovery by Janjaweed militia. In this special report to mark Global Darfur Day, Steve Bloomfield reports from the province of Sudan where 200,000 have died in four years of war and millions have lost their homes.

At 6 a.m. today, as on every other morning in Darfur, Zakiya Gibril Adam and 200 other women started walking. They left as the sun crept above the tattered plastic sheets and thatched roofs of their refugee camp, which stretches as far as the eye can see.

When events get started in Britain and 33 other countries for the Global Day of Darfur, marking the fourth anniversary of the start of a conflict which has killed more than 200,000 people and driven millions more from their homes, 25-year-old Zakiya will still be walking. All the firewood around the Kalma refugee camp, 15km east of Nyala, the capital of South Darfur, has been gathered long ago. Now the women have to walk for five hours to find more.

As celebrities including Elton John, Mick Jagger, Bob Geldof, George Clooney and Mia Farrow call on the international community to do more to protect the civilians of Darfur, Zakiya will be making the five-hour trek back to the relative safety of the camp.

As the women walk, their eyes will scan the horizon, searching for signs of the Janjaweed - militiamen on horseback, armed and supported by the Sudanese government. These are the men who drove the inhabitants of Kalma from their villages, raping and killing anything that moved. The militiamen now live in villages seized from the refugees at Kalma.

Many of the women who walk with Zakiya have been raped while collecting firewood. They return bloodied, bruised and ashamed - often they are shunned by their husbands. Most men don't dare leave the camp; some go to nearby markets, but many have been killed. Yet the women keep rising at 6am, and keep walking for 10 hours a day to find the firewood that their families need to survive.

Tumbling angels and wings to fly

1950s French porcelain tumbling angels.

Sometimes a clipped or broken wing creates an opportunity to discover new skills.

Follow your dreams; take some risks and see what happens.

Maybe you'll discover strengths and abilities you never knew you had.

Chances are your efforts will be rewarded and you'll find new ways - and new wings - to fly.

19th-century French wooden and plaster angel's wing

Wings never lose their power to transport us to new worlds of fortune and opportunity.

You whisper of angels and dreams
with fragile gossamer wings
and strength propelled to fly

Bright blithe spirits
spin choices in the air
swoop through the clouds

Hopeful flights of possibility
soar to the far corners of the earth
or journeys of the imagination

Rise above circumstances
draw your own maps
without boundaries or borders

A touch of bravery's needed
and belief in one's abilities
to reach your destination

Use your wings to fly.

For more flights of fancy, visit Sunday Scribblings.

A carpet of blossoms

Fallen petals on cobblestone, Montreuil-sur-mer, France. Click photo to enlarge.

Carpet of blossoms
disguises imperfections
stone cloaked in beauty

Mixed blessings

The first miguet des bois of the season in pots at Montreuil-sur-mer, France. At the beginning of May, these are perennial favourites in France. I adore miguet des bois and wanted to carry a huge bouquet of them when David and I married nearly five years ago in Santa Fe. But the lily of the valley was $100 a stem(!) in Santa Fe, where apparently they're a rarity. In France, they're five euros per small plant or per small nosegay. A huge bouquet would cost maybe 25 euros. When I was a teenager, I was a fan of Coty's Miguet des Bois fragrance - long before I'd ever seen or smelled any actual flowers of the same name!

Just back from a lovely trip to Montreuil-sur-mer, only to find some unexpected challenges. The elevator or lift is out of order, supposedly for "modernisation." But is anyone working on the elevator to complete this "modernisation?" Of course not! So David and I had the joy of carrying luggage, seven cases of wine, a large piece of pottery and groceries up the stairs.

Then an email from the computer company which recently settled a claim said their cheque was sent to our London address. This in itself was a big error, considering we haven't lived in London in more than six years and all correspondence related to the claim lists our Paris address.

In London, the mail is dropped through a letterbox in the entryway, so only tenants of the two apartments inside the building can receive the mail. In February, someone apparently stole the cheque for nearly £1,000 (more than $2,000), forged my signature and cashed it! Now we begin the tedious process of filing police reports, new claims to replace the stolen cheque, etc. etc. Such joy!

Of course these are all annoying things that can be fixed - no serious problems. But it takes the edge off the holiday joy to come home to such dilemmas. In any event, enough moaning! Our good friends Ralf and Jutta are in town from Budapest, so we're looking forward to catching up with their news over dinner Saturday. And there's a brocante at Eglise d'Auteuil and horse races at Longchamp this weekend. I have several posts and photos to file, as well as reading your blogs. Hope you have a wonderful weekend ahead!

Restoration work in the Hall of Mirrors

Artisans work to correct flaws in marble in the famous Hall of Mirrors at the Chateau of Versailles. In 1919, the Treaty of Versailles was signed here, ending World War I. Extending 233 feet along the west facade of the chateau, the room features 17 large mirrors facing tall arched windows.

A week later, this artisan had moved to the opposite side of the Hall of Mirrors. The work is part of an ongoing restoration effort throughout the Versailles complex.

A door leading to the King's chambers is painted and gilded.

In one chambre at Versailles, stickers on the ceiling indicate where gilt and paint touch-ups are needed.

A portion of the ceiling in the Hall of Mirrors unaffected by ongoing restoration work.

"Promiscuous materials"

Now that I have your attention - if you're an independent filmmaker or dramatist, you may not have many chances to adapt works of popular fiction writers. Intellectual property law doesn't make it easy and licensing fees alone can make approaching big-name authors an expensive proposition.

Jonathan Lethem is one writer eager to see his work adapted by others. The bestselling author of "Fortress of Solitude and Motherless Brooklyn" has started a project called "Promiscuous Materials." For the price of one dollar, anyone can adapt one of several short stories available into a film or one act play.

In an NPR interview, Lethem explained his reasoning: "What I'm doing is sort of saying, look, we give things away sometimes. That's part of our work, and... as it happens, I'd like to do more of it.... The reason this seemed so important to me is that... people talk about intellectual property as if it were an absolute concept with very easily defined terms and I want to suggest that actually there's an enormous grey area. There's a really big spectrum between charging for something and giving it away...."

Lethem takes his inspiration from the open source software movement and Creative Commons (though the license he is using is not a CC license). In a recent essay in Harper's, Lethem argued that contemporary ideas of intellectual property stifle creativity and prevent artists from building on achievements of others. To drive the point home, he constructed the entire article from quotations by other authors.

Not all of Lethem's work is available on his Promiscuous Materials terms and there are simple conditions to which artists must agree before using his material.

What's your view on intellectual property? Do you protect your work for selected use only, or do you offer other writers/artists/photographers the opportunity to expand on your work or incorporate your work in collaborative projects?

Source: Electronic Frontier Foundation and Jonathan Lethem's website. Photo of giant dice in a shop on Ile Saint Louis, Paris

Just because you loved me once

Marble cameo bust of Marie-Therese of Spain, wife of Louis XIV of France. The cameo is framed in gold gilt wood and adorns a corridor of Chateau du Versailles, Versailles, France.

For Poetry Thursday, the prompt is to write a villanelle. "A villanelle?" was my initial response. Then I sat down to write and this poem appeared. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a villanelle, which despite the dictionary definition - a short poem of fixed form, written in tercets, usually five in number, followed by a final quatrain, all based on two rhymes - remains a foreign concept:

Just because you loved me once
doesn't mean you know me
yet you stand on the threshold
and look at me like that
again

Just because you loved me then
doesn't mean you understand me
what makes you think
we can begin this dance
again

Just because you love me now
doesn't mean I'm ready
to abandon choices made
in the absence of fear
again

Just because you promise a future
doesn't mean I accept
the rosy pictures you paint
though my heart aches to believe
again

Just because you look at me
with eyes longing to penetrate
the veil of mysteries I embrace
doesn't mean I can forget you
again

All this time apart
just one elusive dream:
someday you'd find me
and look at me like that
again... and again.

Time out

Paris is filled with tourists taking advantage of the unseasonably sunny April - it's typically pouring with rain - and school holidays. A group of American kids are pictured taking a break on the Champs Elysees.

My husband and I are off for a short break in Montreuil-sur-mer in Northern France. This charming walled city was once an important port. Victor Hugo lived here and made Montreuil the setting for his novel Les Miserables. Every year, Hugo's play is staged at a local festival. Napoleon also spent time at Montreuil, during the Boulogne Camp.

Bien sur, I'll feel compelled to visit two rather wonderful antiques shops (where last trip I found delightful treasures). But we'll be back in time to meet our dear friends Ralf and Jutta for dinner Saturday. We can hardly wait to see them and hear more about life in Budapest!

I have prepared posts in advance, which, all being well, will appear at Paris Parfait during my absence.

Afghan civilians pay heavy price of war

The Peace Pavilion at the Champ de Mars near the Eiffel Tower in Paris, has the word "peace" engraved in numerous languages.

Civilian deaths from insurgent attacks in Afghanistan have increased dramatically, Human Rights Watch said in a report released last week. The 116-page report "The Human Cost: The Consequences of Insurgent Attacks in Afghanistan," said the deaths are a result of insurgents' failure to respect laws of war.

The report describes how Afghan insurgent groups - primarily Taliban and Hezb-e Islami forces - sharply escalated bombing and other attacks in 2006 and early 2007. The report is based on interviews with civilian victims of attacks and their families, as well as a lengthy review of documents and records.

"Suicide bombings and other insurgent attacks have risen dramatically since 2005, with almost 700 civilians dying last year at the hands of the Taliban and other such groups," said Joanne Mariner, terrorism and counterterrorism director at Human Rights Watch. "The insurgents are increasingly committing war crimes, often by directly targeting civilians. Even when they're aiming at military targets, insurgent attacks are often so indiscriminate that Afghan civilians end up as the main victims."

The report documents how - in violation of laws of war - insurgent forces have repeatedly and directly targeted civilians. Even attacks directed at Afghan and international military forces have been launched without regard for civilian life. Human Rights Watch has previously reported on numerous cases in which Afghan government and international forces in Afghanistan appear to have conducted indiscriminate attacks in violation of the laws of war.

The current report notes that 2006 was the deadliest year for civilians in Afghanistan since 2001. Overall, at least 669 Afghan civilians were killed in at least 350 armed attacks, most of which appear to have been intentionally launched at civilians or civilian objects. Fifty-two civilians were killed in insurgent attacks in the first two months of 2007.

Increasingly, the Taliban has targeted humanitarian aid workers, journalists, doctors, religious leaders and civilian government employees, condemning them as spies or collaborators. In 2006, at least 177 civilians were killed in assassinations. Similar ambushes and attacks are continuing. A recent horrific example was the Taliban's execution of Afghan journalist Ajmal Naqshbandi and his driver, Sayed Agha, in violation of war laws. "The Taliban's murders of Afghan journalist Ajmal Naqshbandi and driver Sayed Agha were war crimes," Mariner said.

More prayers for Alan Johnston

Update Tuesday night: Alan Johnston is in good health, Palestinian Deputy Prime Minister Azzam al-Ahmad has told the UK's consul-general to Jerusalem, Richard Makepeace. In a statement, al-Ahmad said, "The information that we have indicates that Johnston is in good health. The [Palestinian] government is fully co-ordinating with the presidency and all security services to pursue the extensive efforts to release Johnston and bring him back safely to his home, family and his work."

Six weeks after his abduction in Gaza, there is still no definitive word on the fate of BBC correspondent Alan Johnston. Speaking at a prayer service Monday at St. Martin-in-the-Fields, London, leaders of three faiths urged the journalist's captors to release him.

Meanwhile, Palestinians in Gaza have launched a website calling for Johnston's release. The website free-alan.com includes a brief biography of Johnston, along with messages in Arabic and English calling on his captors to let him go. "Alan you need to know that those who kidnapped you do not represent the Palestinians," reads one message.

Johnston, 44, has not been seen since he was seized at gunpoint March 12 in Gaza City. Speaking during a visit Saturday to Athens, Palestinian President Mahmoud Abbas insisted that Johnston is alive. "I have said he is alive and we are making efforts to get him released," Mr Abbas told reporters, after meeting Greek Foreign Minister Dora Bakoyannis.

On Friday, Reporters Without Borders urged the Palestinian president to do more to secure Mr Johnston's release. Abbas previously has said he knows who is holding Alan Johnston, but has not indicated whether contact has been made with the captors. On April 15 an unknown militant group claimed it had killed Johnston, but BBC and Palestinian officials have said they have been unable to verify the claim.

Since Johnston's abduction, almost daily protests have been held in Britain, the Palestinian territories and other parts of the Middle East. Johnston is the only Western journalist still permanently based in Gaza. He had been due to complete his posting at the end of March.

At the multi-faith prayer service Monday in London, Rabbi Mark Winer, senior rabbi at the West London synagogue, drew attention to the significance of bringing together representatives of the three major faiths in the Middle East. "Despite the different narratives and interpretations we may have for what is going on in our common Holy Land, we are united in our resolve that the kidnapping of a journalist, the kidnapping of Alan Johnston, is outside the bounds of acceptable behaviour regardless of the truth or justice of anyone's cause," Winer said.

The sad home truths

VideoVets: Susan Sykes Berry

VideoVets: Sonny Flores

The price of a car

The inside of an 18th-century corps de deux armoire or buffet cabinet has been restored in keeping with the original patina. It is available at Marche Paul Bert at Porte de Clignacourt.

If you're interested, email me and I'll send details about the antique dealer, dimensions of the corps de deux, etc. But a word of caution - this lovely piece of furniture is the same price as a car - about 12,000 euros, or $16,318. And that price doesn't include shipping! The dealer would probably lower the price to 11,000 euros.

The top and bottom portions of the corps de deux are pictured.

A mannequin at Marche Vernaison at Marche aux Puces, Porte de Clignacourt is for sale.

This horse-and-bicycle-cart from the turn of the 20th-century is rare, although some restoration is needed. It's available at Marche Vernaison.

Papier-mache coasters from Occupied Japan were a gift from American visitors.

Hawaiian hibiscus blossoms adorn this retro shopping bag and tablecloth found at a shop in Paris.

Treasures from Clignacourt

Last Sunday I accompanied an American friend to the famed Marche aux Puces at Porte de Clignacourt. Usually I stay away from this flea market, as items often are overpriced for the tourist trade. But at Marche Vernaison I found a treasure trove of old documents, typeface letters, vintage post cards, French franc price tags and band sheet music, as well as a red tole tray - all for reasonable prices. My friend also found some lovely pieces, including an exquisite 19th-century Black Forest jewelry box, a Limoges pill box and a decorative perfume bottle.

This document was written and notarised in 1679 and contains several handwritten addendums and official stamps to prove it.

This bill of sale was written in 1829, with amendments notarised in 1834.

A bill of sale under the reign of Napoleon. Note the "imperial" reference.

A document dated 18 May, 1782 fills eight pages, with several amendments. The magnifying glass is bakelite from the 1940s.

A bill of sale dated 17 June, 1781 is seven pages long.

The documents were found rolled up and stuffed in various glass scientific beakers at Marche aux Puces, Porte de Clignacourt. The 19th-century tole tray also came home with me.

More typeface letters and printer's trim to add to my collection. The vendor had an entire alphabet of letters like the large "A," but the price was too steep.

Heavy board price tags in French francs from an upscale department store were found at Marche Paul Bert.

Sheet music for various band instruments will be used in decoupage and collage projects.

La France prepares to elect new president

Update Sunday night: As polls close at 8 p.m. it appears that Nicolas Sarkozy and Segelene Royal will go through to the second round of voting. Sarkozy is projected to have 30 percent of the vote; Royal follows with 25.2 percent. Both candidates will seek votes of Francois Bayrou's supporters in the second round on May 6. Eighty-five percent of French voters turned out to cast their ballots Sunday, the highest turnout since General Charles de Gaulle ran for re-election in 1965.

French voters go to the polls Sunday in the first round of voting for a new president. Center-right candidate Nicolas Sarkozy and Socialist Segelene Royal are expected to make it through to the second round.

But the "third man," centrist candidate Francois Bayrou could throw a spanner into the works. If Sarkozy and Royal make it through the first round, Bayrou will be courted to throw his support - and that of his followers - behind one leading contender.

French media reports that a day before the election, approximately 16 million voters remain undecided. More than one million newly-registered voters are expected to cast their vote. The second round of voting is May 6.

Many voters will make their choice based on deep-rooted suspicion of immigrants. Far-right candidate Jean-Marie LePen has called for a complete ban on immigration to France, while Sarkozy has courted some of LePen's supporters by vowing to establish a Department of Immigration. Sarkozy - himself the son of a Hungarian-born immigrant - is already unpopular with certain segments of the population after taking a hard line against young immigrant rioters in the banlieues protesting the lack of job opportunities and adequate housing. Both Royal and Bayrou are widely considered to be more accepting of immigrants' rights.

Last Sunday I was at the Marche aux Puces at Porte de Clignacourt with a friend visiting from the United States. While standing in line at the one ATM/cash machine within all of Clignacourt, the proprietor of a shop next to the ATM apparently became concerned about the length of the line and the "rabble" standing outside her doorway. She had her assistant erect a large ladder (pictured above) in front of her doorway to keep people away from the glass walls of her shop.

The "rabble" to whom she referred consisted of people from all nationalities, politely waiting their turn. No one was talking loudly or playing music; still the woman came out of her store, muttering about "immigrants taking over." A well-dressed African woman accompanied by her two well-behaved children turned and shouted at the woman, saying that she was just as French as she was. "It's racists like you, who are ruining La France!" she exclaimed, to polite applause of the people waiting in line.

Normandy: The converted farmhouse

This is the third of a three-part series about a trip this week to Normandy. For parts one and two about the memorial at the American Cemetery and the beaches, respectively, scroll down the page.

Ferme de la Ranconierre on the route d'Arromanches in Normandy has been in the same family for generations and was formerly a working farm. In a post last year I listed this hotel as one of five recommended hotels in France. This is the main entrance and exit to the hotel complex. The hotel also has an annex with rooms a short distance away. All rooms are filled with lovely antiques as befitting a country inn, as well as modern conveniences. Click photos to enlarge.

Bicycles are available for rent or you can stroll around the lovely village of Crepon.

The main door of the hotel leading to the reception.

The hotel restaurant offers a spectacular menu featuring local specialities, as well as a diverse wine list.

Late afternoon sun highlights an antique kneeling prayer bench in a corridor.

An old wooden rocking horse awaits child's play in the hallway.

The view from our window late on a sunny afternoon.

Detail of carving above the doors of an antique armoire.

A panel on the armoire depicts lovebirds.

Draped fabric forms a headboard over the bed. The photograph at the hotel's website is of the room where we stayed. I really like the beamed ceiling.

A 19th-century brass calendelabra sits atop the stone fireplace.

Normandy: The beaches

This is the second of a three-part series about a trip this week to Normandy. For part one about the stunning memorial at the American Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer, go here.

Omaha Beach

Les Braves - French sculptor Anilore Banon's tribute to soldiers involved in the June 6, 1944 D-Day landings at Normandy beaches. A plaque near Omaha Beach describes Banon's philosophy in the three elements of her sculpture:

Wings of Hope - So that the spirit which carried these men on June 6, 1944 continues to inspire us, reminding us that together it is always possible to change the future.

Rise Freedom! - So that the example of those who rose against barbarity helps us remain standing strong against all forms of inhumanity.

The Wings of Fraternity - So that this surge of brotherhood always reminds us of our responsibility towards others, as well as ourselves.

See my post of 13 April, 2006 for more information about the funding and development of this sculpture.

An engraving on the side of a monument honours soldiers who came ashore at Omaha Beach on D-Day.

Pointe du Hoc

A navigational error landed soldiers at the base of this 100-foot cliff, which they had to climb with German soldiers firing from atop the cliff. France erected a monument here to honour elements of the 2nd Ranger Battalion that scaled the cliff. The memorial consists of a tall granite pylon atop a concrete bunker and is visible in the far left corner of the photo.

In 1979, the 30-acre area was presented to the American government. It remains much as it was left in 1944, complete with concrete German bunkers, gun mounts and giant craters left by bombs. Cliff erosion recently has made much of the area unstable, so huge swathes of the cliff are encircled with fences and barbed wire to prevent accidents.

A child climbs out of a German "foxhole."

Leaning cypress trees have been shaped by strong winds from the sea.

Utah Beach

Trotter horses training for races at nearby Deauville take advantage of the spring tides to run on the sea bed. Usually this sand is completely covered by water. American forces of the VII Corps landed here June 6, 1944 and fought until July 1 to liberate the Cotentin Peninsula from the Germans.

Driftwood fenceposts, sea grasses and sand dunes on the edge of Utah Beach.

Normandy: The memorial

This is the first of of a series of three posts about a trip this week to Normandy. The Normandy American Cemetery is one of 14 permanent World War II cemeteries maintained on foreign soil. On a cold April morning, this memorial high atop a seaside cliff was achingly-beautiful in the mist and fog. I've visited this site three times and am always touched by its beauty, as well as the tributes to the remarkable courage and bravery of those who died fighting for freedom in WWII.

The memorial - A semi-circular colonnade is made of limestone from the Cote d'Or region of France, while plinths and steps are formed of granite from Brittany. At either end of the colonnade, various World War II battle maps are engraved in stone. A magnificent 22-foot bronze sculpture depicts "The Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves." Click photos to enlarge.

A close-up shot of the bronze sculpture's feet.

A reflecting pool in front of The Memorial is surrounded by pathways to the graves area.

Trees are barely visible through the thick morning fog.

Mist and fog shroud white marble crosses honouring the 9,387 servicemen buried here. The Garden of the Missing, located behind the Memorial, contains names of 1,557 people from 49 of the 50 American states, the District of Columbia and Guam. Their remains have not been recovered or positively identified.

A tree shaped like an Egyptian obelisk centers this group of graves marked by Christian crosses or the Star of David.

Heather and other plants and shrubs grow in a shady area near the Chapel.

The mosaic on the Chapel's ceiling symbolises America blessing her sons as they depart by sea and air to fight for freedom. A grateful France is shown bestowing a laurel wreath upon the dead who gave their lives to liberate Europe.

Words can't do justice
to those valiant men who fought
and rescued freedom

A quote on the wall of the Chapel, which is constructed of Vaurion limestone.

End-of-season tulips at the entrance to the American Cemetery in Normandy.

Home again

A canal runs through the center of Bayeux, Normandy, France.

Just back from Normandy, where it was cold, foggy, misty and beautiful. Have many photos to share, as well as images from two separate trips to Versailles. I'm posting the latter photos slowly, as it is possible to be overwhelmed by excessive amounts of gold gilt. I also have pictures from an excursion to the flea market at Porte de Clignacourt, Paris. Please stop by later today for more photos and a story or two.

A nosegay of purple poesies in Bayeux.

An iron panel in a hotel doorway has been painted white.

A sidewalk sign advertises lunch specials. No, we didn't eat here!.

Lawsuit seeks FBI records

Covering up - These parapluies on Ile Saint Louis provide shelter from the storm, but can Congress provide Americans with protection from unauthorised FBI surveillance?

The Electronic Frontier Foundation (EFF) has asked a judge to issue an emergency order requiring the FBI to release agency records about its abuse of National Security Letters (NSLs) to collect personal information about American citizens.

Congressional hearings and a storm of media coverage followed a recent Justice Department report detailing the FBI's extensive misuse of NSLs -- requests through which federal agents collect telephone, Internet, financial, credit and other personal records about Americans, without judicial approval. The report and the ensuing uproar sparked introduction of a bill in the House of Representatives to curb the FBI's authority. In a lawsuit filed under the Freedom of Information Act (FOIA), EFF asks that the FBI release all information about NSL abuse without delay, so that the records can become part of the national debate about domestic surveillance.

"Congress has already dedicated several hearings to the FBI's abuse of investigative power and is thinking about how to prevent such abuses in the future," EFF Staff Attorney Marcia Hofmann told reporters. "But if there is going to be meaningful debate about this issue, we need more information than what the Administration chooses to make public and we need it now."

The Department of Justice has already agreed that the records should be disclosed quickly, due to media attention, as well as questions the NSL report has raised about the government's integrity. But the FBI has failed to meet the 20-day time limit that Congress set for requests that do not merit fast processing.

EFF's FOIA request asks for all FBI records discussing or reporting violations of current law, guidelines, or policies, as well as any communications discussing various potential interpretations of current federal investigative power. EFF also seeks copies of the contracts between the FBI and three telephone companies, which were intended to allow the FBI to gain rapid access to telephone records.

"There are a lot of questions right now about the government's integrity when it comes to domestic surveillance. The FBI must follow the law and release these records to the public," said EFF Senior Counsel David Sobel.

Decorative details at Versailles

I am in Normandy for two days with our guests. Back soon with photos, as well as more Versailles photos. Also, I will be posting images from a weekend visit to the Marches des Puces at Porte de Clignacourt in Paris.

Richly detailed trim in gold gilt or metal is applied to various decorative and functional pieces at Versailles. This gilt medallion decorates a wall near large windows.

Beautiful gold gilt flowers and leaves adorn a wall panel at Versailles.

Detail on the lower portion of a gold gilt frame for an oil painting at Chateau du Versailles.

A floral garland is "draped" on marble in the Salon de la Guerre.

This panel in the Salon de la Guerre is part of Antoine Coysevox's stuccoed relief of Louis XIV riding to victory.

A black-and-white marble fireplace is framed with gold gilt.

A gold lion's head accents yet another marble fireplace at Versailles.

Gold andirons match the giltwork decorating a green marble fireplace.

Gilt cherubs and an urn panel adorn a fireplace at Versailles.

Even the drapery tieback holders in window alcoves are fashioned of gold at the former palace of the French Sun King.

Gold lock trimmed with the French fleur de lis, Versailles.

A prayer for Alan Johnston

My thoughts and prayers are with Alan Johnston, his family, friends and colleagues at the BBC. Many of you are aware that Alan, the experienced and respected BBC correspondent in Gaza, was presumably kidnapped five weeks ago by masked gunman. On Sunday, a fax sent to various media organisations claimed Alan Johnston had been killed. While there has been no proof of his death, whatever his fate, circumstances for Alan must be dire.

Last dance

Lady of Baghdad, oil on canvas by William Clarke Wontner, 1900

For Sunday Scribblings, the prompt is "secret identity." I've experienced many an Arabian night and yes, I have been known to belly dance - which, along with Loreena McKennett's song "The Mystic's Dream," inspired this poem.

A modern-day Mata Hari
eyes heavily lined in kohl
bracelets clink and earrings jangle
as she swirls in a haze of glittery chiffon
each veil twisted and twirled
like quicksilver
practiced until perfect
so she draws her audience in
as the oud's plaintive wail echoes
and the drumbeat quickens
she shimmies her hips in intoxicating rhythm
then executes a series of dizzying turns

Suddenly she slows with the music
her hips gently undulating
as she sways in place
waiting as he leans closer
longing to read the secrets in her eyes
she watches his lazy grin
he's sure of her now
before the night is over he'll fire her passion
matching her movements to the drum's rapid pace
she draws the dagger from her costume
and smiles:
it's his last dance.

Marie-Antoinette's domaine

A craftsman works on the O'eil de Boeuf window at Le Petit Trianon, Versailles. The chateau was built in 1762 as a retreat for Louis XV, but became Marie-Antoinette's private domaine. Here she was able to escape prying eyes and whispers of jealous court observers and gossips at Versailles.

Before photographing the craftsman, I spoke to him in French, asking permission. I then showed him the first shot on my digital camera. He was so delighted, he asked if I'd like to take another - hence this photo. I was probably the only person who'd spoken to him all day, other than his co-workers.

Before I was told no photos were allowed, I managed to get this shot of the bust of Marie-Antoinette. It sits on the fireplace mantel in Le Petit Trianon's main salon. In 1789, the French people stormed the palace at Versailles and smashed the bust. It has been re-glued, deliberately to show the cracks. A skilled French artisan could repair the damage so that no cracks are visible.

Gilt fittings grace decorative double doors in the main salon at Le Petit Trianon.

A carriage displayed in a glass case under the stairway was enjoyed by Marie-Antoinette's two children.

Versailles exterior shots

Photographs of outdoor scenes behind the main palace buildings of Versailles, France. A reflecting pool is centered by shooting fountains. This marble figure represents Poseidon, the Greek mythological god of the sea.

A marble sculpture of a goddess and a cherub anchor the opposite end of the reflecting pool.

Three cherubs grace another corner of the same reflecting pool at Versailles.

Part of the palace, as viewed from the gardens. Behind the scaffolding and metal fences, restoration work continues.

Versailles is known for its lush formal gardens, which were designed by Andre Le Notre.

One of many statues lining a walkway, this marble figure represents Diana, Goddess of the Hunt.

A pathway interspersed with fountains, statuary and topiary leads to a large pond, where summer concerts are often featured.

Workmen stand in the water while building a floating platform or stage for summer performances at Versailles.

Of guests and guns

Remember the musical Annie Get Your Gun about Annie Oakley? I felt like I'd stepped back in time yesterday, during a surreal conversation with our latest guests. They live in a medium-sized American city, where one is a lawyer and the other a reporter. The lawyer was concerned about his wife, the reporter's late-night animal rescue work (typically taking missing or abandoned cats from parking lots, etc. to an animal shelter). He had encouraged her to get a concealed weapons permit, or a license to carry a gun.

They talked about how she'd taken a class to become certified and how they'd shopped for a gun. She said most of the guns were "too big and bulky" to carry, although she'd finally settled on a smaller model - a .38-caliber - and paid an extra $200 for the weapon's red laser sight. Then she talked about walking into an antiques mall and finding a small French "muff gun," - the kind that women in the 18th-and-19th centuries carried hidden inside fur muffs, designed to warm their hands. And how she'd wanted to buy it - she'd gone home to tell her husband: "Now that's a gun I could carry," - but the shop proprietor told her American bullets wouldn't fit the French gun.

She said guns scared her a little. She related stories she'd covered when guns accidentally went off - once in a police station, when a woman dropped her purse. I asked if she'd considered a self-defense course, rather than carrying a gun. We discussed the movie "Enough," in which Jennifer Lopez portrays a woman who undergoes self-defense training to fend off an abusive ex-husband. And I wondered aloud what has happened to our country...

I've known this woman for 22 years and never would have dreamed she would carry a gun. It's probably not something that would have occurred to her, had her husband not suggested it. Yet now she's into it enough to be interested in the style and look of her gun, not just how it shoots.

I find this disturbing. Is crime really so bad that one feels the need to carry a gun for protection? Do you or your friends own a gun? Do you carry it in your car's glove compartment or have it locked in a drawer in your house? What are your thoughts about ordinary citizens carrying concealed weapons or keeping guns at home?

C'est moi

Photographed April 10, Bois du Boulogne, Paris by Di Mackey

Friends, chocolate and Girl Scout cookies

Les visiteurs kindly pose for a photo. We had the great pleasure of Di and Gert's company this week. They were in Paris from Belgium to meet Di's daughter and granddaughter(!) - at Charles de Gaulle after a very long flight from New Zealand. (Yes, Di's much too young to be a grandmother). While Di and Gert are very different, their personalities complement each other in so many ways. David and I were completely charmed by them both. David had been hearing me talk about Di for a long while and was pleased that she more than lived up to her billing. And after a lovely dinner cooked by my personal chef (uh, that would be my husband), Di and I stayed up until 2 a.m. talking.

You may be familiar with Di's excellent blog A Wandering Woman. She is a talented photographer and honoured me by taking some photos of me, in between her incredible shots of Paris scenes. She sees a photograph everywhere and has been known to lean rather dangerously into traffic in an effort to get a good shot.

As a disclaimer, I must say when we were walking through the Bois du Boulogne late Tuesday afternoon, I didn't expect Di to suddenly urge me to pose for photos, nor did I expect her to scamper up on top of mounds of dirt to aim her camera. While I wasn't really in the right frame of mind for having my picture taken - especially without the aid of hair and makeup professionals - Di was so gently insistent, I acquiesced and am glad I did. Will post one of Di's photos later. Check out her fascinating blog for some fabulous shots of her Paris trip and her terrific photography website.

Di and Gert brought us delicious treats from Belgium: some favourite cookies, as well as lots of deep rich chocolate and Belgian beer. And as if that weren't enough sweets for one week, a package arrived Wednesday from the delightful Terri of Tinker's Art! It contained Girl Scout cookies from her adorable "grandgirls," Felicity and Serenity.

According to Terri, her Girl Scouts are quite the little Francophiles and excited at the prospect of their cookies traveling to Paris. But I'm sure they were not half as excited as I was to receive the Shortbread cookies and Thin Mints! Thin Mints! Remember those? I developed a fondness for those cookies when I was a Girl Scout, many moons ago. And I'm waiting until the guests that arrived this morning go home before opening all this deliciousness. Yes, David and I are going to be selfish and keep these Belgian treats and American cookies all to ourselves. French pastries? Pshaw! Girl Scout cookies and Belgian chocolate trump any day. Well, at least this week...

Oh and Terri also sent me a beautiful handmade Paris-inspired card, an inspiring art card and a copy of one of my favourite magazines. Yes, I'm spoiled, spoiled, spoiled at the moment. Merci bien to Terri and her "grandgirls" and to Di and Gert for their thoughtfulness and generosity!

Yes, I know I should keep cookie crumbs away from the computer! Treats from Terri of Tinker's Art and her "grandgirls" are shown. The photograph is for the "grandgirls," to assure them their cookies made it safely to Paris.

Watch this space

Bust of Louis the Sun King and rare peach marble urns of gilt flowers adorn a fireplace mantel at Versailles, France.

Please stop by later for tales of special guests, Belgian chocolate and beer and Girl Scout cookies from California - plus, lots more photographs of Versailles!

Sculpture in a Square

...and kudos, a crush and momentary panic!

This modern sculpture is in Place St.-Germain-des-Pres, opposite the St.-Germain-des-Pres church. I don't know details about the sculpture, so will tell you about the church, which is the oldest in Paris. (And yes I realise I should have photographed the church). The 17th-century philosopher Rene Descartes and John Casimir, the King of Poland are among those buried in the church crypt. Originating in 542, the church became a Benedictine Abbey, with much of it destroyed by fire in 1794. The present church dates from the 11th century and was restored in the 19th-century. One of the three original towers survives, which houses a belfrey.

I am feeling the love here! I've been honoured with a Thinking Blogger Award four times, most recently by Dani at Colorful Prose in France and by Anna at Nature Trail in Canada. Both Colorful Prose and Nature Girl are well-deserved recipients of the same award. In the collaborative spirit of the Thinking Blogger Award, I've previously named five fascinating bloggers who make me think.

But there's more joy: Neil of Citizen of the Month in Los Angeles has named me as his Crush of the Day - for the second time! And I've received some lovely, encouraging emails. I am overwhelmed by the recognition and kudos. Thank you so much! Merci bien!

Once again I am hosting guests and finding it difficult to keep up with writing, vacuuming, cleaning, food shopping, being tour guide, etc., much less catch up with reading and commenting on your blogs. I am trying to fit in a little here, a little there, but woefully, am lagging behind. Please be patient with me. And be prepared for lots of photo essays, until things settle down long enough for me to write more than a short piece.

Monday night I had a bit of a panic when I couldn't access my weblog. My log-in and password didn't work, despite repeated attempts. I had dark visions of someone stealing my password, hijacking my blog and wreaking havoc! While the problem seems resolved, this little episode serves as a reminder that all of us should be backing up our blogs or saving information in our posts elsewhere.

In case you missed it, there's an interesting piece in the New York Times on "A Call for Manners in the World of Nasty Blogs." My theory is that manners are as important in blogging as they are in any situation. I know of a couple of instances where blogging friends have been subjected to threatening or rude and aggressive behaviour. Have you been bothered by anonymous commenters? Join the debate.

Antiquarian books

Hemingway never slept here

Antiquarian books at Shakespeare & Co., a Paris literary institution.

The reflection of Notre Dame Cathedral is visible in the windows. The board contains a treatise written by store owner George Whitman.

Rare books - including many first editions - comprise this section of the book store. Don't you think "French Girls Are Vicious" is a memorable title?

Stairs leading to more books and rooms with beds for the "tumbleweed" young writers who've stayed at Shakespeare & Co. Plastic tarpulin covers the ceiling, as pieces of plaster are literally falling on people's heads. The store's general rundown look is part of its appeal to visitors.

A jumble of books on the main floor of Shakespeare & Co.

An excerpt from John Affleck's article at Literary Traveler:

In 1951, thirty years after Sylvia Beach opened Shakespeare and Company, George Whitman opened Le Mistral, an English language bookshop at 37, rue de la Boucherie, on the Left Bank just across the Seine from Notre Dame. He'd bought the prime location with an inheritance and filled it with books he'd acquired with G.I. book vouchers he'd bummed from non-literary troops, amassing an enviable collection of first editions from Lost Generation writers.

Like Sylvia, he used the second floor as a library and venue for literary gatherings, and it quickly filled with the new generation of ex-pat writers. A different group, to be sure; more fragmented, and more daring. When Ginsberg and the Beats arrived in Paris in the late 50s they read their latest works on the street outside the shop: Corso read his poems, Ginsberg read Howl and, most shocking, Burroughs read from Naked Lunch. At the other extreme, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, who would go on to open the sister City Lights bookshop in San Francisco, slaved away at his doctoral thesis on T.S. Eliot's poetry, always finding refuge at 37, rue de la Boucherie.

Following Sylvia Beach's death in 1962, George renamed his bookshop Shakespeare and Company in her honor, though almost certainly without her permission. And while there was no shortage of literary aspirants passing through, George still sought his Hemingway and Joyce. To help catch them, he started the "Tumbleweed Hotel;" he installed sleeping berths in the library where down-on-their-luck young writers might stay, provided they "read a book a day" and worked an hour around the shop.

More established writers could stay upstairs in the Writer's Room, boasting three walls packed with rare volumes and considerably more comfortable beds. George estimates 10,000 travelers have stayed for at least a night; each visitor must leave a short autobiography and a photo. Many of these photos adorn the walls of the Writer's Room: Lawrence Durrell, Allen Ginsberg, Henry Miller, alongside classic shots of Hemingway and Joyce and a seemingly omnipresent Sylvia Beach.

Never married, in his sixties George fathered his only daughter, and proved that the shop's new name was more than just a publicity stunt by naming the girl Sylvia Beach Whitman. Indeed, it is easy to assume, as many tourists do, that it is the same bookshop frequented by Hemingway and Joyce and George does little to correct them. To the contrary, he foments the rumors that he is the illegitimate grandson of Walt Whitman.

While his own legacy may remain very much in Sylvia's shadow, George's tenure as Paris' literary host is now in its fourth decade, having weathered the Beats, the 1968 student riots, the hippies and numerous tax audits by the French authorities (George doesn't accept credit cards; all purchases are cash only). And while he still searches for literary heirs, the ghosts of the fathers have found themselves very much at home at the new Shakespeare and Company. It remains, in the spirit of its predecessor, the best bookshop around.

Eglise Saint Severin

Happy Easter! Stained glass window at Eglise Saint Severin, Paris

The church features remarkable arched doorways, topped by stone carved figures.

Another view of the French trefoil over the doorway, which depicts Jesus Christ as a knight on a horse.

Scenes of everyday life are shown with these hand-carved figures above a doorway.

This wooden panel of entwined letters and olive branches is located on the exterior wall to the left of the main entrance.

Who, what, where, when and why

What do you think when you read the sign "Free Hugs?" These young French schoolgirls at Versailles were offering hugs to anyone who asked. They were not being provocative; they were getting involved in their community. On a cold, windy afternoon after school, they spent their time trying to cheer up others.

And what do you think when you look at this photo? Beneath the real Eiffel Tower, this creative young boy had his camera zoomed in on a miniature Eiffel Tower, with family member's feet in the background. He was viewing his surroundings through a unique perspective. How you view each of these photos is - bien sur -dependent upon your own perspective.

"In the news" is the Sunday Scribblings prompt. I've spent most of my life covering the news via radio, television, newspapers and now online. And who, what, where, when and why (and sometimes how) is the mantra of every journalist for every story we cover. We have to consider two sides to every story, then put the facts out there for readers to draw their own conclusions. Being objective is drilled into our heads in journalism school. We don't editorialise unless we're writing an op-ed (opinion piece or editorial) piece.

When I write a newspaper or magazine article, it's my duty to present the facts. It's not my role to tell you what to think about those facts; that's your prerogative. Most of us are familiar with the expression "ignorance is bliss." Yet ignorance can be dangerous. And there's no excuse for it, with multiple news sources available 24/7 around the globe.

The United States and Great Britain once were countries of activists, movers and shakers. I am dismayed with the current social and political climate that seems driven by fascination with news "lite" and celebrity escapades. While we're being "entertained" by Lindsay Lohan's latest woes or some starlet's unlikely romance, what's happening to our energy resources? Where are funds designated for education being channeled? What has happened to arts and music programs in our schools? Is anyone crying foul as the infrastructure collapses around us?

Frankly, I am shocked at the amount of apathy in Western countries and how few people bother to register complaints, much less protest the status quo, either by speaking out or via the ballot box. How can people spend more time deciding what barbeque grill to buy than determining whether or not their children have safe drinking water or adequate health care?

Our responsibility to ourselves and to future generations is to make informed decisions - not let someone else tell us what to think. Lots of lies and "spin" cloud the atmosphere. Not long ago one young blogger sent me an email saying she realises she needs to become aware of issues at the polls, for her children's sake. Well, yes, you do. And whether or not we have children, how can we not pay attention to events that ultimately will affect us and everyone we know? We are connected, like it or not. John Donne wrote that "no man is an island, entire unto himself." In this vast global village, never has that been more true.

Thomas Jefferson wrote that given a government without newspapers or newspapers without government, he'd choose the latter. If we ignore the news and don't try to affect change, we deserve the government we get.

Right this minute there are numerous journalists around the world risking their lives to find the truth. Many have died or been seriously wounded in this quest. As I write this, BBC reporter Alan Johnston is still missing, nearly a month after he disappeared in Gaza. Stay informed: read the news and ask questions!

Easter greetings

Painted ceiling, Chapel at Versailles, France. Click photo to enlarge.

Wishing Easter blessings and joy for you and yours...

Scenes from a French market

Benoit, the handsome and charming French florist, sells a profusion of gorgeous flowers, floral arrangements and potted plants. Ladies, he is contemplating a move to the United States!

Masses of tulips from Benoit's floral shop.

Roses, roses and more roses!

Daisies for planting are heaped in baskets.

These artichokes rival flowers in their sculpted beauty.

Fresh pineapple is on special offer at one vendor's stall.

Some favourite vendors pose for the camera. These guys sell delicious seasonal fruits and vegetables, always with good humour.

Coquille St. Jacques is a perennial best-seller, particularly for New Year's celebrations. The crevettes are always popular.

These langoustines are neatly stacked on a bed of ice in a wooden container at the market's best fishmonger.

Perhaps you can pick up your favourite vintage at this wine merchant's stall.

Old books are sold by an interesting man who came to France many years ago as a young orphan and refugee from Vietnam. He declined to have his photo taken.

Shoes are among the numerous clothing items in abundance at the market.

If you want to change the look of a chair, this reupholstery service is always on hand.

Time out in Paris

Maryam of My Marrakesh at Brasserie Lipp on Blvd. St. Germain, Paris. Originally opened in the late 19th-century, Brasserie Lipp is often referred to as the quintessential Paris brasserie. It is a Left Bank favourite of politicians and newsmakers.

This week I had the good fortune of meeting Maryam of My Marrakesh at the Brasserie Lipp in St.-Germain-des-Pres. Time flew on a wing as we shared some rather intriguing stories. We talked about our work, our families and of course, blogging. For readers already familiar with Maryam’s blog, she is brilliant, enthusiastic, relaxed and witty, just as one might expect from her lyrical writing. And she's gorgeous, stylish and simply can't take a bad photograph.

Maryam's living a charmed life in Morocco, which is not without its challenges, both expected and unexpected. Somehow she manages to juggle a family, a full-time job, writing her blog and a non-fiction book. And then there's the small matter of building a guest house on a choice patch of land that just happens to have an olive grove. Maryam doesn't do anything by half-measures. I suspect we'll be reading much more in future about her myriad accomplishments.

Versailles bound

Cheese graters at a shop on Ille St. Louis, Paris

Bonjour les tous! Am off to Versailles, armed with my camera. One set of guests departs Thursday. And I will catch up with your blogs and post some of the hundreds of photos taken over the past few days. Hope all is well in your corner of the world.

A walk along the quay

Two female icons and cover girls are side-by-side in a quai vendor's bookstall along the Seine. I think it's interesting that the old Paris Match depicting Audrey Hepburn is bright and sunny, whereas the one showing Marilyn Monroe's face is darker, in the shadows - perhaps in recognition of the tragedy of her early death.

Vintage postcards are mixed with new in a quai vendor's stall.

La mode, la mode, la mode - A Paris television show by the same name features au courant fashion, but this vendor had prints featuring 18th, 19th and mid-20th century styles.

A 19th-century decorative design above the doorway of an avocat or lawyer's office near Notre Dame.

Notre Dame and Point Zero

All roads lead from Paris...at least that's what the mapmakers envisioned when they set Point Zero for France in front of Notre Dame.

The view from the West: Notre Dame's main doors, central rose window and openwork gallery are visible, along with the long lines of people waiting to see the cathedral's interiors.

Chimieres, or gargoyles jut over the side of the building.

Exterior views of the cathedral's right side.

Exquisite carved details over an arched side door.

Chimieres jut over this row of arched gothic windows.