The fake clocks indicating 1868-2007 "Meet me at St. Pancras" are everywhere in the revamped station in London. The only working clock I saw was on the second level, in the center of a hand-painted mural.
An interior view of St. Pancras Station, London.
Steel arched beams support the glass roof, while Victorian red brick arches form entryways for what eventually should be shops and restaurants.
A Christmas tree adorned in cool colours, to reflect the cavernous atmosphere of St. Pancras.
As Queen Victoria famously said, "We are not amused." I would agree with her when it comes to Eurostar's new service into St. Pancras International in London. What were they thinking??!! The much-touted improvement of 2 hour, 15-minute service from Paris to London failed to materialise. My train this week was 35 minutes late, with no explanation provided when it stopped for several minutes on the track, other than "we're sorry."
After standing in the taxi queue in the rain at St. Pancras, I got in the taxi only to get nowhere fast. For 45 minutes, we inched along North London streets; at one point, the taxi didn't budge through four traffic lights. This area is notorious for traffic jams around Euston Road.The meter read £18 (that's about $40) and we'd barely gone anywhere. At that rate, I figured the ride to my hotel in South Kensington would end up costing as much as a taxi from Heathrow! At Leicester Square, I got out and hopped on the tube. Two tube trains later and nearly two hours after arriving in London, I finally got to my hotel.
The former Eurostar terminal was located at Waterloo International, near the banks of the Thames, the London Eye and the Tate Modern. It was very convenient by taxi or tube to Central London, the destination of probably 95 percent of Eurostar passengers. The new station is in an industrial area riddled with crime, where it's not considered safe to walk.
So the only solution when returning to Eurostar was to take the tube, never mind how heavy my luggage (which had been filled with staples I can't find in Paris. I had to forget about buying gifts, as no way to carry them). I took the Victoria line to King's Cross/St. Pancras, again, going up and down stairs carrying heavy luggage. Upon arriving at King's Cross, it is a long hike to St. Pancras. Once there, I discovered there's not a seat anywhere in the mostly empty space. A French-inspired bistro, a Marks & Spencer food hall and a couple of small take-away food shops are the only places open. All the talk about St. Pancras becoming a major shopping destination is at the moment, just talk. Because there are empty shells where stores should be.
As I'd allowed extra time to get to St. Pancras, considering the heavy bags I was carrying, I was early. So I wandered around the station taking photos, only to be told photos aren't allowed! As we weren't able to enter the Eurostar terminal until 4:30, I sat for an hour on top of a big metal industrial desk fronting a construction site. Three other people joined me. The place was crawling with transit police and several times, they walked past me. I was waiting for them to tell me to move; thankfully, they didn't.
Upon entering the Eurostar terminal, all the shops that formerly fronted the Waterloo terminal are missing. Gone is the stand for tourists to buy Paris metro tickets and museum passes. Gone are the restaurants, souvenir shops and newstands and bookshops. Instead, there's one very small snack bar and a newstand. Apparently, that will be the extent of the amenities, since there appears to be no room inside the terminal for anything else.
It was not a wise move, inconveniencing passengers by sending them to North London. Apparently, Gordon Brown and Tony Blair, both being Scottish, had something to do with it. Their constituents wanted a direct rail link to Europe. So while it may be convenient for the Scots, it's a pain in the neck for the rest of us.
Until this trip, I enjoyed taking Eurostar to London. Sadly, it is now an annoying inconvenience, from the moment one arrives in London. As for the return trip to Paris, it was on time and I was the third person off the train - only to find about 300 people already in the taxi queue. They had arrived on the train that left London 25 minutes before ours.
Ever since Paris Mayor Bernard Delanoe re-routed taxis where they can't wait directly outside the terminal at Gare du Nord, finding a ride is a hit-and-miss proposition. For the last two years, more often than not, arriving passengers lament that there are few or no taxis available. This is fine if you live in Paris and can jump on the metro (as long as you aren't carrying heavy luggage; again, you face carrying luggage up and down steep stairs). But for tourists - especially elderly ones - who've never been to Paris, it's a dilemma. Many of them are carrying heavy luggage and have no clue about how to get to their hotel or destination. They need a taxi, not the metro. The confusion of hundreds of people waiting for a handful of taxis is not a welcome image for Paris. Surely Delanoe - and Sarkozy - should remedy this situation.
Other than the annoying travel woes, my trip was fine, although I didn't have time to socialise. I took care of business and other obligations and shot lots of photos around London. Watch for these posts over the next few days. I caught some sort of bug/cold in London, so am not feeling up to par. Hope to catch up with you and your blogs over the next couple of days.
After the irritating experiences upon arrival in London, I got off the train at Gloucester Road. This art installation made me smile.
A giant panda bear head has thin ladders crisscrossing its face.
This little trailer, a pile of mattresses and stack of bricks are part of the art installation by Brian Griffiths.
I didn't realize they'd moved the Eurostar station until I tried to reserve tickets yesterday for our upcoming trip. I'd already reserved a B&B nearer Waterloo thinking it would make catching the train easier, only to discover the change. I'm glad I've got a "heads up" about the inconveniences, thanks. Although probably we won't be too bothered by the lack of amenities as the only inexpensive tickets left already were the the ones for a 6:55 am departure. Ugh. But the upside is, more time in Paris - yah!
Posted by: Laume | 23 February 2008 at 22:00
It is a tragedy when beautiful places are reinvented with a person or people who are ignorant of the soul of the place. A Catholic church in San Luis Obisbo, Ca. was one of the most beautiful places. Sacred and primitive, yet elegant and soulful. Someone redid it over the top Italian. Made me cry. Took the soul away bit by bit week by week. I will never get over it!
At least that poster makes me smile!
xox
Constance
Posted by: rochambeau | 12 December 2007 at 00:13
oh dear, it sounds like a traveller's nightmare, especially with your heavy bags. But at lest that big panda (which might be a nightmare to some!) made you smile. :)
Posted by: Madeline | 10 December 2007 at 09:50
Charlotte did the trip back a couple of weeks ago and used St Pancras, she said she prefered Waterloo. This is something, as we all thought it would be much easier from the North East when arriving at Kings Cross to just go next door to St Pancras. As with most things in London and the UK in general things are done half cock as we say. The hold up on the line you experienced will no doubt be due to our useless rail lines which are so outdated.
Even though I was born and London and am proud of the fact it is an expensive chaotic city and I just don't dare to think what a cock up they will make of the Olympics in 2012
Posted by: Di Overton | 10 December 2007 at 00:34
Wow, I hadn't realized that Eurostar moved its station to St. Pancras. It was always very convenient for me when I lived in West London, Waterloo was only snap away. I guess this is one of those things that will please some, like Katherine, and inconvenience others. Mind you, the traffic around St. Pancras and Kings Cross has always been a nightmare, the congestions charge eased it for a little while but now that people are used to it it's back to "normal". I miss London but not driving through it. Sorry to hear it's been such an ordeal for you.
Posted by: Kerstin | 10 December 2007 at 00:00
Sounds a bit stressful, indeed! But the photos were enchanting, thanks.
Posted by: judy wilkenfeld | 09 December 2007 at 10:17
That's the thing about travel -- sometimes it does have its dreadful moments. Hope you're feeling much better really soon!
Posted by: fleur | 09 December 2007 at 06:10
painted clocks? insane!!! those bottom photos were certainly fascinating too. hope you are feeling better soon.
Posted by: AscenderRisesAbove | 09 December 2007 at 04:15
Thanks for the quick jaunt to London, the blue lit tree is wonderful and I had a Panda mask just like that when I was a kid! I used to wear it to school now and then! (silly kid)! Hope you are feeling better!
Happy Holidays!
Sandra Evertson
Posted by: Sandra Evertson | 09 December 2007 at 00:41
Yikes what a trip! I hate the travel woes, that's for sure!
Posted by: Mary T. | 08 December 2007 at 23:05
Tony Blair's constituency is in the north-east of England, which, along with Yorkshire and the East Midlands, will also benefit from this. To be honest, not many Scots would use the Eurostar, preferring to take cheap flights from Edinburgh and Glasgow. I don't like flying so I'll be using the Eurostar when I travel over in January, I'd rather have the long journey down to London than worrying about a flight but I think I'm a rarity in Scotland! I'm really pleased it goes from St Pancras, I understand it's a bit of a trek over from King's Cross but I'd rather do that than go on the underground across to Waterloo. It's a shame the shops are empty but I'm sure that will change!
Posted by: Katherine | 08 December 2007 at 18:29
I am so sorry the inconveniences outweigh the "improvements". What were they thinking? Reminds me of the horror at Frankfurt's airport, with my small children up and down narrow stairs and walkways to get from one terminal to the other. Travelling generally has become so burdensome, I think twice about getting on a plane or train now if I don't have to.
Posted by: Merisi's Vienna for Beginners | 08 December 2007 at 18:26
Oh no! I'm so sorry you had a bad trip. I'm a fan of King's Cross because it's so handy for the British Library, and I usually stay around Bloomsbury, so I tend to regard KC as my "hub" in London anyway. Also, it's probably where we will end up buying an apartment next year, or near there anyway, because of the proximity to University College London, the libary again and the less-ridiculous-than-some-other-parts-of-London house prices. I also *adore* the building.
I hope all this means that we have you back in Paris now!
Sarah
Posted by: Passementerie | 08 December 2007 at 18:10
Love you my darling friend.
Prayers and love and kisses to you at Christmas and always
Love Jeanne
Posted by: Jeanne | 08 December 2007 at 17:48
Loved the photos of the train station. Hope your feeling better soon my friend xoxo
Posted by: My Melange | 08 December 2007 at 17:30
What a trial that must have been! I'm so sorry you had to go through all that, Tara - no wonder you aren't feeling well, after being worn out like that. Despite the holiday rush, I hope you take some time to rest up. Get well soon!~xOxOxO
Posted by: tinker | 08 December 2007 at 17:18