These antique textiles and jewelry (photos shot through glass) are on display at a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre. I forgot to bring a card reader and have had erratic internet service, so no chance yet to extract photos I've been taking this week. On Thursday, I visited the Jordan River Foundation's textile division, to watch talented women work on some stunning collaborative projects. More about their creations in another post.
Meanwhile, I'm working on a photographic essay and have been meeting the most astonishing Bedouin women. I'm thrilled with the images, as well as the experiences. Such amazing struggles these strong women have endured! I've been very privileged to spend time with them, not to mention the honour of photographing them.
William, my trusty driver and assistant and I have been trekking all over the country, seeking introductions to these women. Some of their stories are heartbreaking; others, inspiring. Their rich histories are etched on their faces and not just in tattoos, a dying tradition that's now frowned upon among Arab tribes.One lively woman told me she wants a copy of her photo, to display it in the church at her funeral!
I photographed a wonderful woman and her eight-year-old granddaughter, wearing their hair in matching braids. They insisted on giving me a beautiful traditional dress they'd hand-embroidered. Of course I couldn't accept, without paying them for it.
Some of the images I've captured were difficult to take. A blind woman was living in a tent swept bare of all but basic necessities. With every click of the camera shutter, she let out a sigh. The woman was desperately poor, as were many of the Bedouin families I encountered.
One large extended family lived among the ruins in an ancient stone village near Hmod. The village elders were happy to have their photos taken, but a young married woman sitting on a blanket drinking tea jumped up and ran away, even though I assured her I wouldn't take her picture. In contrast, the sheik in charge of the tribe was pleased to pose and discussed his efforts to try to improve their lot.
Today in our travels we encountered torrential lashing rains, which left roaring streams of muddy water rushing through the desert and across roads. Rocks fell from cliffs onto the roads below, while the desert was saturated, with giant pools of excess water remaining on the surface. On a mountain route near Kerak we were forced to turn back, as water flooded the road. But it was worth every inconvenience for the photos!
Antique textiles and heavy silver jewelry on display at a folkloric museum adjacent to the Amman Amphitheatre.
On Saturday, am off to a different part of Jordan, in search of more tattooed women in their colourful embroidered costumes.
And Sunday and Monday, the group of photographers arrive for the grand tour. We have a jam-packed schedule and I'm so excited to show them the best of the Kingdom's myriad attractions.
Hope you're having an adventure or two in your corner of the world! Do tell!
Leave a comment about your latest adventure or your plans to welcome spring and I'll send the winner - drawn March 10 from commenters' names - a souvenir from Jordan. Good luck!
Hmmm... latest adventure? Planning a trip to Brussels in September. And planning out my budget for the next eight months. For some reason the two (Brussels and budget) don't want to get along. Hmmm.... :-)
Safe travels to you, Tara! Can't wait to see all the photos you're taking...
Posted by: CMN | 11 March 2010 at 07:22
Hope your travels are going well! Can't wait to hear more. May you journey home, safe and sound~xOx
Posted by: tinker | 09 March 2010 at 21:24
Most of my adventures are internal, but I love traveling with you.
Posted by: patry | 09 March 2010 at 02:53
I am living in Laos in the land of the eternal sunshine and dreaming of snow and rain. I am a four seasons girl at heart.
Lovely photos and web site.
Posted by: Jo | 08 March 2010 at 13:28
Gorgeous textiles and a beautifully presented post.
Posted by: Princess Haiku | 08 March 2010 at 02:32
Tara what wonderful images you share with us and the heart wrenching stories of these women.. "a copy of her photo, to display it in the church at her funeral" says it all.
I can imagine the memories you hold dear both in photos and in your heart. Take care dear heart. Happy Trails xo
This year I cannot travel to my soutwest adventure in the desert so I create Spring on my blog..taking photos of Spring I find in my local garden stores!Bright Spring colors!I place a different image on my desktop on PC to cheer me as the snow outside thaws!
Posted by: naturegirl | 08 March 2010 at 02:29
what a wonderful adventure you are on. the pictures are awesome, as are the words you write.
i am heading to guatemala soon with my best friend , to visit a school that we have helped in the past.
Posted by: spice | 07 March 2010 at 08:43
Well my adventure begins tomorrow and will bring me to your front door very soon!
Cannot wait to hear more about your experiences.
Bisous,
Deborah
Posted by: JanePoet ~ JP/deb | 07 March 2010 at 02:18
I so enjoy your blog, you just wouldn't believe how much, truly. Due to recent surgeries I will only be exploring the world vicariously this spring, but with your blog and those of others you have posted, I think I shall be quite busy! I love the jewelry and I am in awe of the skill used to create it...I wonder what tales they would tell if they could speak. Safe journeys, Tara.
Posted by: Mary H. | 07 March 2010 at 01:59
What an enchanting and mind blowing journey. I know you have been there before, but I am certain it always has deep emotions intertwined with vast beauty.
I can't wait to hear how the trip continues on its path when the group arrives. And also, I will be curious to see you experiencing the enchanted desert, through the eyes of those who have never been there...
Much love, and prayers for your and Jordana's safety, and the safety of all joining you... LOve, Vanesa
Posted by: A Fanciful Twist | 05 March 2010 at 02:10
Dear Tara,
I am and will be thinking of you and Gillian on your adventure. Wishing you the best of times together!
Love,
Constance
Posted by: rochambeau | 04 March 2010 at 20:24
Tara, I really admire your generosity and your adventuring spirit, and the fact that you know what's what. Feet on the ground, even when there are muddy floods! A sense for romance and design, but foremost the needs of human beings in the face of adversities. It's a privilege to read your stories.
Posted by: Chris | 03 March 2010 at 19:12
Stunning! Textiles are like a culturally open window into the country. And, I love what stories hidden in them.
In fact Spring officially arrived in my Queen city Istanbul in the mid of last month, feb. To welcome the spring, it will be a first for me: to visit an important country in the Middle East. Impatiently waiting for April. More will be announced on my blog, ie the name of where I'll be flying.
Posted by: CrossRoads | 02 March 2010 at 12:09
Not only are they lovely, but OH! What texture you have captured. I can just feel it!
Posted by: jeanie | 01 March 2010 at 22:27
Fabulous..! I cannot imagine how wonderful it must be to be there..how's our Gillian doing?!
Posted by: pam aries | 28 February 2010 at 05:51
WOW! How cool, Tara! It is all beautiful, and your stories are something I want to hear more of. What a life you love, my friend.
:) oxox love. be safe.
Posted by: amber | 28 February 2010 at 03:04
Tara, I am really, really looking forward to your tatoo photographs! You captured those textiles beautifully. I had absolutely no luck taking photos of women in Oman, (even while they were taking photos of my kids!) so I didn't try very hard in Jordan, thinking it would be unwelcome.
Our latest adventures, well, everyday here in Dubai is an adventure, I say, but for travel, we were recently in SE Asia and are planning our next trip to be Greece, Crete and Turkey.
Posted by: Natalie | 27 February 2010 at 17:09
My camera in my hand. i see allready the beginning of leaves. I love this part of the year. I know what is coming. All the beauty of the white and pink coloured trees. But this moment also is beautiful. The branches of the trees, the patterns they make. The small signs of life in the tops of the branches. This time and the times coming make me happy.
And I also love your pictures and stories.
Posted by: Gerimeftahkleurrijk.blogspot.com | 27 February 2010 at 10:59
We're taking our girls to San Francisco to welcome the spring--so looking forward to it. I know it's a favorite place of yours, so any insider tips would be most welcome! My trips there have been quick with no time for sightseeing, so this will be fun!
Posted by: RD | 27 February 2010 at 05:06
Breath taking!!!!
Posted by: Yoli | 27 February 2010 at 04:48
xoxox Won't be long now. Your stories about the Bedouin women are heartbreaking. Should we bring flippers for swimming? Hope that rain stops. Either way I don't care. I'll be just so happy to be there. See you Sunday afternoon at the airport. We leave tomorrow morning. xoxoxo
Love you!
Posted by: Gillian soon to be in Petra! | 27 February 2010 at 02:27
Beautiful photographs!
No adventures here but plenty of snow. We are in the middle of yet another East coast snow storm. Just digging out could be an adventure.
Spring is a long way off but I plan on welcoming it with open arms!
Posted by: Helen | 27 February 2010 at 01:57
Your stories today just tease me to want to hear more. What an amazing experience and travels you are having. Happy and safe travels.
I plan to go for a few days next month to Victoria, BC, Canada to celebrate spring with a visit to the Butchart Gardens and for afternoon tea. We are celebrating right now with daffodils blooming in our yard. I love spring.
Posted by: Marilyn | 27 February 2010 at 01:17
What fabulous adventures you're having, Tara (and marvelous photos of them)! I'm sure your photographers will have a wonderful time there with you leading the way.
My adventures here are more prosaic - though I treasure them still. I'm venturing into grandmotherhood (again ;). It seems the grandgirls will have a new cousin this autumn, as now my younger daughter is expecting her first child.
Looking forward to seeing more of your adventures. Wishing you a wonderful time! xox
Posted by: tinker | 27 February 2010 at 00:13
I can almost taste these textiles!
Posted by: Jane Rosemont | 26 February 2010 at 21:26
I have adventures PLANNED in Todos Santos Mexico. I love this part of Mexico where the desert meets the sea.
I am soaking in YOUR adventures Tara. Just so fascinating!
x..x
Posted by: Stephanie | 26 February 2010 at 21:21