Paris Parfait

Of frankincense and oriental spices

Spice markets, downtown Amman, Jordan.

I grew up reading about frankincense and myrrh that the Three Kings brought to Mary and Joseph, to celebrate the birth of the Baby Jesus. But until this month at a Bedouin camp in Beidna, near Petra, I'd never actually smelled frankincense burning in its purest form. The delicious aroma was enough to convince me to bring some back to Paris.

This spice merchant told me his daughter lives in Michigan. Asked if he'd visited her in the United States, he replied, "No; the US is only for young people."

A big bag of dried chili peppers.

Another shop with bins filled with spices.

 

Beans, peas and popcorn.

Orange/red marigold.

Drawers and bins containing rare spices and pulses.

 

Bags of nuts, rice and beans.

Filling a special order.

 

Some spices are on special offer at this shop. 

Since returning from Jordan a week ago, I've been busy being hostess to two sets of guests. I also escorted visiting American friends to the brocante and ham fair at Chatou (see next post). Check back soon for more photos and tales of our  Journey to Jordan.

Downtown delights

My friend Gillian going native: trying on an antique headdress at the famous Al-Afghani Bazaar, Amman. We managed to find quite a few treasures here; more about them in an upcoming post.

 

Downtown Amman, Jordan is filled with an Aladdin's Cave of delights. Among them: freshly brewed Arabic coffee.

 

Take your pick of flavours and spices, including the ever-popular cardamon.

Roasting coffee beans.

A vendor carries a brass teapot and tray of glasses past stalls of knitted hats and scarves.

  

Sugarcane juice, anyone? This gentleman kindly agreed to pose for a photograph.

Crossing the street.

Traditional dresses trimmed with teal designs.

 

Red embroidery and cross-stitches accent these dresses.

 

Window display featuring traditional designs.

 

Bolts of neatly-stacked fabric in a tailor's shop.

 

Gillian and Julian at the Gold Market.

 

Feeling lucky? Here's your chance to play the numbers.

 

An old hotel that's seen better days. On one building in Amman, a sign proclaims "Life could be better."

A variety of tempting perfume oils.

 

King Hussein Mosque.

  

A flowering tree hints of spring. More snapshots of Jordanian life to follow.

Of textiles and tattoos

These antique textiles and jewelry (photos shot through glass) are on display at a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre. I forgot to bring a card reader and have had erratic internet service, so no chance yet to extract photos I've been taking this week. On Thursday, I visited the Jordan River Foundation's textile division, to watch talented women work on some stunning collaborative projects. More about their creations in another post.

Meanwhile, I'm working on a photographic essay and have been meeting the most astonishing Bedouin women. I'm thrilled with the images, as well as the experiences. Such amazing struggles these strong women have endured! I've been very privileged to spend time with them, not to mention the honour of photographing them.

William, my trusty driver and assistant and I have been trekking all over the country, seeking introductions to these women. Some of their stories are heartbreaking; others, inspiring. Their rich histories are etched on their faces and not just in tattoos, a dying tradition that's now frowned upon among Arab tribes.One lively woman told me she wants a copy of her photo, to display it in the church at her funeral!

I photographed a wonderful woman and her eight-year-old granddaughter, wearing their hair in matching braids. They insisted on giving me a beautiful traditional dress they'd hand-embroidered. Of course I couldn't accept, without paying them for it.

Some of the images I've captured were difficult to take. A blind woman was living in a tent swept bare of all but basic necessities. With every click of the camera shutter, she let out a sigh. The woman was desperately poor, as were many of the Bedouin families I encountered.

One large extended family lived among the ruins in an ancient stone village near Hmod. The village elders were happy to have their photos taken, but a young married woman sitting on a blanket drinking tea jumped up and ran away, even though I assured her I wouldn't take her picture. In contrast, the sheik in charge of the tribe was pleased to pose and discussed his efforts to try to improve their lot.

Today in our travels we encountered torrential lashing rains, which left roaring streams of muddy water rushing through the desert and across roads. Rocks fell from cliffs onto the roads below, while the desert was saturated, with giant pools of excess water remaining on the surface. On a mountain route near Kerak we were forced to turn back, as water flooded the road. But it was worth every inconvenience for the photos!

Antique textiles and heavy silver jewelry on display at a folkloric museum adjacent to the Amman Amphitheatre.

On Saturday, am off to a different part of Jordan, in search of more tattooed women in their colourful embroidered costumes.

And Sunday and Monday, the group of photographers arrive for the grand tour. We have a jam-packed schedule and I'm so excited to show them the best of the Kingdom's myriad attractions.

Hope you're having an adventure or two in your corner of the world! Do tell!

Leave a comment about your  latest adventure or your plans to welcome spring and I'll send the winner - drawn March 10 from commenters' names - a souvenir from Jordan. Good luck!

Amman

 

My daughter Jordana climbing the steep stone steps of the Amman Amphitheatre, which was built by the Romans.

 

Waving en route to the top.

 

The hills above the amphitheatre and a portrait of King Abdullah II.

A view of Amman and the amphitheatre from the Citadel. I am in Amman, for the next two weeks plus. Am looking forward to welcoming an interesting group of women (and one man) beginning Sunday. We'll tour Jordan's hot spots and the ancient Nabatean city of Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

I'll escort the group to some of my favourite places and introduce them to some intriguing local customs. We'll also receive landscape photography tips from Zohrab, Jordan's most renowned photographer. Wish you could join us! But we'll take lots of photos and will blog about the trip, so it is hoped you'll feel as though you're here!

Other views of the city. Click photos to view details.

 

Thank you, Romantic Homes!

A 1920s French mannequin wearing a vintage apron from Thailand and antique Jordanian and Bedouin ornate silver and coral necklaces (including as a headdress) and bracelets.

Many thanks to fabulous editor Jacqueline deMontravel for featuring Paris Parfait as a "Blog We Love" in the April issue of Romantic Homes magazine!

Jacqueline contacted me last November, just before my daughter and I were departing for Jordan. As requested, I sent some photos upon my return to Paris, but wasn't sure when my blog would be mentioned.

Alas, the magazine isn't available in Paris.  So it wasn't until today, when my friend Marilyn opened the magazine's latest issue and emailed me, that I knew the feature had been published, along with three of my photos. Such a lovely start to my Wednesday morning!

Merci bien, Romantic Homes! Now where can I find your magazine in Paris??!! I usually buy copies in London, but since Borders closed, difficult to find.

La vagabonde

Camels in Petra, Jordan.

Am busy trying to finish some projects, as well as preparing to depart for the Middle East. If I haven't caught up with your email or your blogs, I will soon. Check back later for a more substantial post.

Meanwhile, have you seen the World Press Photo award winners? Powerful images.

Shepherds tending their flock

Getting an unruly flock of sheep out of the road, Ajloun, Jordan.

Live sheep and goats were for sale all over the country on the eve of the Eid Muslim holiday.

A child tentatively touches a sheep.

Children continue to bother the sheep feeding at a trough, annoying this ram.

This little boy is a blur of motion as he touches a sheep, then turns to run.

  

After their purchase, this family heads home. Each animal costs around $250 and up. The sheep would have been slaughtered and eaten during the Eid celebrations.

The little boy (center) with energy to burn certainly enjoyed attention.

These laughing boys could barely stay still long enough for a photograph.

Young shepherds with their flock at twilight.

The Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project

Handmade fabric dolls at the Jordan River Foundation, Bani Hamida Mountain, Jordan.

A weaver puts finishing touches on a rust-coloured rug featuring numerous patterns. 

Last December my daughter Jordana and I made an impromptu visit to the Jordan River Foundation. The women were kind enough to give us tea, as well as allow us access to their showroom and their work area. Of course, a couple of beautiful handmade rugs came home with us!

The Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project has revived traditional Bedouin rug weaving in the Makawir community, with older women teaching rug-weaving techniques to younger generations. The effort was initiated in 1985 by Save the Children Federation. In 1998, the project was absorbed into the Jordan River Foundation. Women in several villages now help maintain the Jordanian rug-weaving tradition.

With hand-made looms and wooden spindles, the women create flat weave designs in pure wool. The colours and patterns result in stylish looks that blend beautifully with modern design, while remaining true to Jordan’s traditional rug-making techniques.

To date, the Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project has utilised the skills of nearly 2000 Jordanian women, including spinners, weavers and dyers. These talented women produce unique, artistic designs renowned around the world.

 

Close-up detail of the rug panels.

 

Stacks of handmade rugs.

Trimming fringe on a small rug.

A container of rugs and wall-hangings.

A decorative wall-hanging.

 

Rugs in variations of browns, rusts and creams.

 

Aqua, rust and cream patterns.

 

Rusts, yellows, blues and greens in these rugs and wall-hangings.

 

 

Strong primary colours are dominant in these rugs and wall-hangings adorned by thick yarn tassels.

Scroll down the page for a post about the Bani Hamida weavers' yarn and wooden spindles.

Wool yarn used in Bani Hamida rugs

A weaver uses a wooden spindle for yarn at the Jordan River Foundation on Bani Hamida Mountain, Jordan. The beautiful rugs produced by Jordanian Bedouin women weavers are made by hand.

Unravelled yarn.

Balls of colourful yarn used for weaving rugs.

Compartments separate yarn via colour and shade.

 

Cream and white balls of yarn.

Happy birthday to King Abdullah II

Sunset at Ajloun Castle, Jordan.

Birthday greetings to His Majesty King Abdullah of Jordan, who turns 48 today. Am looking forward to returning next month to the beautiful Hashemite Kingdom.

When His Majesty was still HRH Prince Abdullah, he was an avid sportsman and champion rally car driver, in addition to his official duties. I have fond memories (and many photos) of those days, when I handled press and publicity for then-Prince Abdullah's team. His winning Opel Manta rally car is currently on display at the Royal Automobile Museum in Jordan (photos in an upcoming post).

All that glitters

Money exchange sign in historic downtown Amman, Jordan. After exchanging their money for Jordanian dinars, many foreigners (and locals) like to shop in the popular gold souk.

The vast array of 24-karat and 18-karat gold offerings may prove irresistible (although my daughter Jordana showed remarkable restraint).

Important to keep one's sense of humor, when confronted with such tempting choices. In the Middle East, gold is considered an essential part of a bridal dowry.

Years ago I bought a 24-karat gold bracelet and ring at the Amman gold market. When I was living in New York, the price of gold soared and I sold the jewelry at a profit.

Fancy a shopping expedition in Amman? An unexpected cancellation has left one space available for our Journey to Jordan March 1-8. Go here for more information about this chance to visit Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and for landscape photography tips from Zohrab.

Dream weaver

My daughter Jordana using an antique weaving loom in Madaba, Jordan.

"We all have our own life to pursue; our own kind of dream to be weaving. And we all have the power to make wishes come true, as long as we keep believing." - Louisa May Alcott

"Our life is composed greatly from dreams, from the unconscious and they must be brought into connection with action. They must be woven together." - Anais Nin

 

"We sleep but the loom of life never stops and the pattern which was weaving when the sun went down is weaving when it comes up in the morning." - Henry Ward Beecher

Zohrab: Jordan's premier photographer

Zohrab, November, 2009, Amman, Jordan.

I first met Zohrab in September, 1979 in New York. He was His Majesty King Hussein of Jordan's photographer; I was a young reporter covering the King's address to the United Nations General Assembly, as well as his meetings in New York.

Since then, Zohrab has become something of a legend in Jordan. He traveled with and photographed King Hussein and members of the Royal Family for many years. After King Hussein succumbed to cancer, Zohrab switched his focus to landscape and nature photography.

Zohrab is the author of ten stunning photography books. His award-winning work has appeared in countless magazines and other publications and was featured on CNN's "Inside the Middle East." Zohrab continues to take portraits of the Jordanian Royal Family. He also trains his lens on special features and events. Besides his diverse photography work, Zohrab is the managing director of The Capital Amman magazine.

I was thrilled when Zohrab agreed to provide landscape photography tips in Petra during our Journey to Jordan March 1-8. A last-minute cancellation has left one space available for this trip. It's a unique opportunity to see one of the New Seven Wonders of the World - and other historic sites - through the eyes of a master photographer! If interested, please contact me by February 1.

My Marrakesh

Meanwhile, my clever friend Maryam's blog My Marrakesh is a finalist in the 2010 Weblog Awards competition. Many of you are familiar with Maryam's lovely blog blending design, style, travel and shopping - always shopping - as well as references to her human rights work. So please go here and scroll to the right to vote for My Marrakesh under the Best African Weblog category.

Building blocks

Stacked stones and Roman pillars, Jerash, Jordan.

Roman pillars and stone walls, Jerash.

My daughter Jordana in Jerash, November, 2009.

"A great building must begin with the unmeasurable, must go through measurable means when it is being designed and in the end must be unmeasurable." - Philadelphia architect Louis Khan.

Am busy building the foundation for new projects. Back Monday with another post. Hope you're enjoying your weekend!

Clearing space, earthquakes and travel

Musician in Petra, Jordan.

I have spent the entire weekend sorting through my antiques and collectibles, preparing for an antiques dealer's visit this week. The husband-and-wife team are bringing a big truck, so I'm hoping they'll take away certain pieces of furniture, as well as many other items. Then I'll have more space to breathe and fewer items to move early next year to Amsterdam.

I've also been going through my closet, gathering summer clothes for a French relief project for Haiti. Have donated money, as well, but wish I could do more. Having been through the Lomo Prieta earthquake in San Francisco in 1989, I've been struck by horrific photos showing the marked contrast between that damage and the current devastation in Haiti.

Most San Francisco residents will agree that if you have to be in an earthquake, San Francisco is the place to be: they know what to do. Fire, rescue and emergency services and much of the population are prepared for such an eventuality. Also, many buildings have had "earthquake-proof" retrofitting or renovation. In the '89 quake, I was on the 36th floor of the Pacific Telesis Tower, which swayed on giant springs, but didn't fall. In contrast, Haiti's across-the-board destruction is a stark reminder that most of us have much for which to be thankful.

The last few days I've been watching and reading the news from Haiti in small doses. In between, I've been escaping into Robert Mitchum films of the 1940s and '50s and trying to clear the never-ending email backlog.

I've also prepared some surprises for our upcoming trip to Jordan March 1-8. Registration is closed, but I'm planning another journey there in November. Two people already have signed up for that trip, which will involve off-the-beaten track travel, photography and more. Enrollment will be limited to ten; details will be announced later this spring. Hope you can join us!

Jubilant about Jordan

 

After wasting nearly three hours today communicating with incompetent staff at an increasingly-greedy airline, I decided to focus on something good. I remembered this simple little coffee/tea stand on the road to Petra, Jordan...

...and these precocious little Bedouin boys at Kerak Castle.

An ancient castle...

...hosting a secret passageway with a ghostly apparition.

 

I thought about these beautiful Roman pillars at Jerash...

... and the bagpiper and drummer at the Jerash Amphitheatre...

 

And at last, a plane ticket using airmiles was procured for my daughter Jordana (pictured in November with a musician).

Hope your day is yielding many positive gains!

Happy birthday Gillian!

When I saw this little Bedouin girl at Petra, leading a donkey larger than she, I was immediately struck by her determination. Somehow, she reminded me of my dear friend Gillian, who's always taking on intriguing projects, acquiring new skills, shaking things up, racing headlong down the road less traveled. Today is Gillian's birthday and no doubt, it's the beginning of a year of fun-filled adventures for her!  I'm  happy we'll get to spend some time together soon in Jordan. Won't you join me today in stopping by The Dreaming Press to extend best wishes to Gillian?

Christmas blessings

Madonna and child, photographed through glass, Church of St. George, Madaba, Jordan.

Merry Christmas! Joyeux Noel! Feliz Navidad!

On this day of joy and remembrance, my prayers are for more enlightenment in this world: for more justice and less repression; for more hope and less fear and for compassion and care for those less fortunate. And no more walls; please, let's tear down all the walls; break apart the barriers; eclipse arbitrary borders. What unites us is more powerful than what divides us.

I also pray for grace and strength as we continue to face challenges and change, as well as for some small measure of peace in our hearts.

Lighting the way

Candles lit in prayer, St. George Church, Madaba, Jordan.

"...like a living hymn, written in light."  - N.P. Willis

The lovely Se'lah of Necessary Room is hosting a Christmas Gift of Jewels. Today, Paris Parfait is offering an antique French book to a winner, chosen from a drawing on January 7. Stop by Se'lah's place to enter to win the book, as well as great prizes from other bloggers.

Winter solstice

Light and shadows, Mount Nebo, Jordan. 

"Look round and round...and see even here, upon a winter's day, how beautiful the shadows are! Alas! It is the nature of their kind to be so. The loveliest things in life...are but shadows and they come and go and change and fade away..." - Charles Dickens

Scroll down the page for more photos of Mount Nebo.

And my thanks to the talented Anahata Katkin for her lovely kudos about Paris Parfait! A big merci goes to my dear friend Vanessa, who told me about Anahata's post. Not only that, but Vanessa - she of the incredible art genius and brilliant imagination - has created banners for my new Etsy shop, coming soon. Merci bien!

Mount Nebo

The Brazen Serpent sculpture by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni at Mount Nebo, Jordan. It is symbolic of the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus Christ was crucified.

Mount Nebo is believed to be the place where Moses first glimpsed the Promised Land. "And Moses went up from the plains of Moab to Mount Nebo, the top of Pisgah, which is opposite Jericho." - Deuteronomy 34:1. According to Christian and Jewish tradition, Moses was buried on this mountain. However, his final resting place remains a mystery. Tradition also suggests the Prophet Jeremiah hid the tabernacle, as well as the Ark of the Covenant on Mount Nebo.

View of the Holy Land from Mount Nebo. On a clear day, you can see Jerusalem and Jericho.

 

Memorial stone near entranceway. When I lived in Jordan, we attended Easter sunrise services here.

 

A sculpture honouring Pope John Paul II's visit in 2000. Pope Benedict visited Mount Nebo in May 2009.

 

Mosaic floors uncovered in 20th-century excavations.  

In 1933 at the highest point of the mountain, Syagha, the remains of a church and monastery were found. The church was built in the second half of the 4th century to commemorate the place where Moses died. The church was enlarged late in the fifth century and rebuilt in 597. Six tombs have been discovered beneath the church's mosaic floors. Excavation of various structures currently are in progress.

 

Mosaic from the Kayanos Church.

 

Mosaic inscription.

 

Palestino-Aramaic inscription from the Kayanos Church.

Historic stone overlooking the Jordan Valley.

Bonne anniversaire Jordana!

My daughter Jordana in an unguarded moment, Amman, Jordan.

Happy birthday, Jordana! Here's to your first 25 years of love, fun, challenges, opportunities, travel, art and adventure. I hope your future shines even brighter, with endless possibilities for joy and inspiration.

The Dead Sea

 

A hotel's private beach at the Dead Sea, Jordan.

 

Steps leading to the beach.

 

Visitors floating in the Dead Sea.

 

Rubbing on Dead Sea mud, known for its curative and restorative properties. At water's edge, clumps of salt accumulate, a natural pumice for one's feet.

Wading in the water (my daughter Jordana is at the center of this photo).

A practically-deserted swimming pool and fountain.

 

Silhouettes at sunset.

 

Jordana laughing as a camel stands up. It was her first time riding a camel since childhood. Those are flies buzzing around his head, thanks to the high temperature near the Dead Sea.

A guide keeps control of the reins, to prevent the camel from racing.

Jordana returns from her jaunt down the corniche.

Jordana preparing to dismount the camel.

 

On the way back to Amman, we stopped at this roadside produce stand. Our driver told the vendor, "We don't want to buy anything from you; we just want to take your picture." The seller happily agreed, posing for several photos with his son. This was in sharp contrast to another vendor down the  road, who - the minute he saw my camera, before I had a chance to say a word - started shouting "No pictures! No pictures!" And he refused to sell anything to our driver.

Crates of tomatoes, directly from the farm.

 

The proud vendor shows off his fresh oranges. Our driver purchased two boxes of oranges and lemons.

 

The fruit-and-vegetable seller and his young sons pose for the camera.

 

The setting sun.

Check back later for photos of the Dead Sea shot from a fantastic panorama in the mountains. Scroll down the page to see other photos of Jordan, including the River Jordan and the baptismal site of Jesus Christ.

The River Jordan baptismal site of Jesus Christ

The River Jordan near the site where Jesus Christ was baptised. 

The muddy waters of the River Jordan.

 

 

A portion of dry and cracked riverbed.

 

The bank of the River Jordan.

Mosaic at the site where Jesus Christ was baptised. Because the land near the Dead Sea historically has been the site of much conflict - including the 1967 War or Six Day War - landmines are still being discovered and detonated by specialists. One was detonated while we were standing at this location, resulting in a loud explosion. It helped bring home what it's like to live with conflict virtually on one's doorstep. Since the 1994 Peace Treaty between Jordan and Israel, the site is no longer considered a military border zone. However, visitors to this area - including Pope Benedict - are led by licensed guides and restricted to specific paths.

Jesus Christ walked down these steps to be baptised by John the Baptist. According to the Bible, Matthew 3: 16-17, "As soon as Jesus was baptised, he went up out of the water. At that moment heaven was opened and he saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and lighting on him. And a voice from heaven said, 'This is my Son, whom I love, with him I am well pleased.'"

In A.D. 570, Antoninus of Piacenza noted, "By the site of the Jordan...where the Lord was baptised, at the place where the water returned to its bed...marble steps descend into the water."

Read more about other spiritual events believed to have occurred here.

 

View of a Coptic church from the bank of the River Jordan. Four other churches and a mosque are also under construction in the area.

 

 

The church bells, crosses and the Jordanian flag on an adjacent wing with arched windows.

 

Hand-carved seats and stained glass featuring crosses inside the church.

 

Ceiling mural of Jesus Christ and a brass chandelier.

Murals depicting scenes described in the Holy Bible.

 

 

 

High murals and domed ceiling.

See other photos of Jordan here, here and here, with many more to follow.

Happy birthday Vanessa!

Horse and buggy, Petra, Jordan.

Give my friend Vanessa Valencia 15 minutes with this horse and buggy and she'd have it transformed into a magical gypsy caravan. She has a knack for taking simple things and creating something spectacular. She's also an artiste extraordinaire, with loads of talent. Several of her original paintings are now in Paris, in my own little Vanessa Valencia Gallery.

Today is her birthday and I'm joining many of Vanessa's friends and admirers in wishing her a Bonne Anniversaire!

Petra: The rose-red city's natural beauty

The Siq, entrance to Al Khazneh or the Treasury, Petra. All photographs © Tara Bradford 2009.

 

The Treasury became world-famous after its role in the 1989 film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

 

While I have visited Petra many times over the years, I always feel overwhelmed by its magnificent beauty and stunning light. On this visit, we arrived just after 6 a.m. and stayed until noon. The previous evening, we witnessed the sun setting over the mountains.

 

Shades of brown, peach and cream appear on the ceilings and columns of deep caves in Petra.

Gorgeous swirls of colour in natural rock formations.

My daughter Jordana is a blur of motion while climbing ancient steps in this vast former Nabatean city. Join us on a Journey to Jordan March 1 -8 and you can see the stunning Petra valley for yourself. Plus, you'll have the benefit of landscape photography instruction from Zohrab, Jordan's premier photographer. Zohrab is the author of ten photography books. He also was the personal photographer for the late King Hussein of Jordan.

Check back later for many more photos of Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Petra is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Citadel

The Citadel in silhouette, Amman, Jordan.

 

The Temple of Hercules overlooks the city of Amman. The Citadel's museum houses fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls, among other rare antiquities.

 

The famous Dead Sea Scroll fragments.

 

  

One of the many sculptural antiquities at the Citadel's Archeological Museum.

Marhaba from Jordan

My daughter Jordana is wearing an antique Palestinian hat, hand-stitched and covered with coins. A similar design is in a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre, Amman, Jordan.

Jordana wearing an old Bedouin silver necklace, Amman, Jordan. Check back later for more images from Jordan.

Similar hats in a local museum.

Away we go!

Courtyard, private chapel, Arundel, England. Arundel Castle is in the background. This setting reminds me of Seville, Spain, as well as Amman, Jordan. Must be the palm trees, arched doorway and ancient buildings!

My daughter Jordana and I are off to Amman, Jordan. While I don't expect we'll be dining on turkey, we  have much for which to be thankful. Hope you and yours have a wonderful Thanksgiving holiday, filled with blessings!

Adventure travel and photography

Qatari artisan stringing freshwater pearls, Hippodrome de Longchamp, Paris.

Please read Marianne's piece about our photography adventure Journey to Jordan. And come with us March 1- 8, 2010: we have two spaces left.

Tonight I'm having dinner in Paris with an American expat who lives in Switzerland. She's accompanying us on the trip. Read more about our expedition here and email me with any questions. Hope you can join us!

Fall preview

Bikes, boats and canal houses at twilight, Amsterdam.

You may not be ready to kiss summer goodbye, but the prospect of fall fills me with excitement. In September, it's not just a birthday that makes me happy; it's the sense of possibility; the first hint of a chill in the air; the colours; the clothes. To mark my birthday, I'm joining other September babies in donating to Charity Water, which helps provide clean drinking water around the world.

My fall diary looks promising. First, there's a week-long photography course in London, fall clothes-shopping and chatty dinners with old friends. Later in September, there'll be teas and dinners with friends visiting Paris. I'll meet my blogging buddy Marilyn for the first time.  My friend Joan, the fascinating proprietor of San Francisco's Timeless Treasures will be in town.  I'll also be escorting my partner-in-crime Di Overton to the brocante at Chatou, hunting for goodies for Ghost Furniture.

Photo shoots in both Paris and the Loire Valley are planned for an upcoming book about French antiquaires and their private spaces. Early in October, David and I will holiday in Scotland and various points in England. In Northumberland, we'll visit Di and Harvey. Can't wait to see their renovated cottage (and sneak a few photos)! In Oxford, we'll visit David's daughter Marie-Claire, as well as Barbara and Barry, the lovely couple whose wedding the gorgeous Gillian and I were privileged to witness last December in New York.

November kicks off with the usual brocante at Bastille. I'll be brushing up on my Arabic in preparation for  spending Thanksgiving and early December in Amman and Petra, Jordan, working on interviews and photo essays. I'll also make sure arrangements for our expedition March 1-8, 2010 are exactly as expected.

We still have two or three spots left; want to come along with Alex and me for an unforgettable adventure? Check out our Journey to Jordan website, then email me with any questions.

This fall I'll also be making a concerted effort to walk and bike more to build up my stamina (to carry heavy photo gear around for extended periods of time); to clear more clutter by selling some antiques and collectibles and to read more and worry less.

What's kick-starting your fall? Any plans for travel or launching new projects or creative ventures? Do tell!

P.S. If you like books and appreciate Brit humour and irony, you may enjoy Me and My Big Mouth. I especially like his criteria for getting rid of books. Note to self: Must do this!

Rituals and traditions

A vintage book, antique Arabic coffee pot and coin necklace.

Among the joys of the Middle East are the rituals: the serving of strong Arabic coffee; the stories and news exchanged among family and friends. Classical Arabic is a flowery, poetic language, perfect for story-telling around a Bedouin campfire or a relaxed three-hour evening meal under the stars, starting with a delicious mezza and ending with freshly-brewed Arabic coffee.

If you have a penchant for adventure and want to experience - and photograph - some of these wonderful traditions, join Alex de Souza and me for our Journey to Jordan March 1 - 8, 2010. A few places are still available and we'd love to have you along, as we visit many of Jordan's magnificent attractions.

Don't forget your camera for excellent landscape photography pointers from Zohrab, the late King Hussein's personal photographer. What an honour to learn from Zohrab, whose breathtakingly-beautiful work is in great demand!

Go here for information about how you can accompany us on our Journey to Jordan.

Dutch master

 

A Dutch Master reproduction painting and an oval gilt frame at Westerstraat Market, Jordaan, Amsterdam.

“Dreams are like the paints of a great artist. Your dreams are your paints, the world is your canvas. Believing is the brush that converts your dreams into a masterpiece of reality.” - Author unknown

Speaking of dreams coming true, many thanks to the fabulous Gillian of Indigo Blue for her enchanting post about our upcoming Journey to Jordan! And a big merci to Christine Mason Miller, for including the trip in her weekly Five Things list.

You, too, can come to Jordan; there's still time to sign up! Visit our website for more information about this exciting expedition.

Join us on a journey to Jordan!

 

Have you ever dreamed of waking up under foreign skies, just a short walk from Petra, "the Rose Red city half as old as time?" Have you ever wondered what it's like to float in the Dead Sea? Have you longed to explore castles and remains of Roman cities? Or picnic in a desert Bedouin encampment? Well now you can!

As a journalist, I spent many years living and working in Jordan. Now you can benefit from my insider's knowledge of the desert kingdom. Won't you join Alex de Souza and me March 1-8, 2010 on a photography safari to Jordan? Not only will we explore Petra - one of the New Seven Wonders of the World - we'll visit many other key historic sites. And we'll receive landscape photography tips from Zohrab, Jordan's premier photographer!

In the Jordanian capital Amman, we'll walk through a Roman amphitheatre and trawl the Aladdin's Cave of souks and spices, as well as the labyrinth gold market. We'll stroll through the ruins of a Roman city in Jerash. We'll visit a mountain-top castle in Ajloun and Qasr Amra and other castles in the desert.

We'll travel to the biblical city of Madaba, where an ancient church contains a mosaic map of the Holy Land. We'll enjoy the breathtaking scenery at Mt. Nebo, which dates from the Old Testament. There we'll see the Memorial of Moses and astonishing views of the Jordan Valley. And we'll take a scenic day trip to the Dead Sea, located 1,385 feet below sea level.

We'll visit the walled city of Kan Zaman and watch Bani Hamida weavers create hand-loomed rugs.  We'll go directly to the source to shop for intricate silver jewelry, hand-blown glass, ceramics and fine examples of local craftsmanship.

Alex and I are so excited to share this once-in-a-lifetime adventure with you! Visit our website Journey to Jordan for more details. Be sure and check out the links in the sidebar.