Paris Parfait

Of textiles and tattoos

These antique textiles and jewelry (photos shot through glass) are on display at a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre. I forgot to bring a card reader and have had erratic internet service, so no chance yet to extract photos I've been taking this week. On Thursday, I visited the Jordan River Foundation's textile division, to watch talented women work on some stunning collaborative projects. More about their creations in another post.

Meanwhile, I'm working on a photographic essay and have been meeting the most astonishing Bedouin women. I'm thrilled with the images, as well as the experiences. Such amazing struggles these strong women have endured! I've been very privileged to spend time with them, not to mention the honour of photographing them.

William, my trusty driver and assistant and I have been trekking all over the country, seeking introductions to these women. Some of their stories are heartbreaking; others, inspiring. Their rich histories are etched on their faces and not just in tattoos, a dying tradition that's now frowned upon among Arab tribes.One lively woman told me she wants a copy of her photo, to display it in the church at her funeral!

I photographed a wonderful woman and her eight-year-old granddaughter, wearing their hair in matching braids. They insisted on giving me a beautiful traditional dress they'd hand-embroidered. Of course I couldn't accept, without paying them for it.

Some of the images I've captured were difficult to take. A blind woman was living in a tent swept bare of all but basic necessities. With every click of the camera shutter, she let out a sigh. The woman was desperately poor, as were many of the Bedouin families I encountered.

One large extended family lived among the ruins in an ancient stone village near Hmod. The village elders were happy to have their photos taken, but a young married woman sitting on a blanket drinking tea jumped up and ran away, even though I assured her I wouldn't take her picture. In contrast, the sheik in charge of the tribe was pleased to pose and discussed his efforts to try to improve their lot.

Today in our travels we encountered torrential lashing rains, which left roaring streams of muddy water rushing through the desert and across roads. Rocks fell from cliffs onto the roads below, while the desert was saturated, with giant pools of excess water remaining on the surface. On a mountain route near Kerak we were forced to turn back, as water flooded the road. But it was worth every inconvenience for the photos!

Antique textiles and heavy silver jewelry on display at a folkloric museum adjacent to the Amman Amphitheatre.

On Saturday, am off to a different part of Jordan, in search of more tattooed women in their colourful embroidered costumes.

And Sunday and Monday, the group of photographers arrive for the grand tour. We have a jam-packed schedule and I'm so excited to show them the best of the Kingdom's natural wonders.

Hope you're having an adventure or two in your corner of the world! Do tell!

Leave a comment about your  latest adventure or your plans to welcome spring and I'll send the winner - drawn March 10 from commenters' names - a souvenir from Jordan. Good luck!

Amman

 

My daughter Jordana climbing the steep stone steps of the Amman Amphitheatre, which was built by the Romans.

 

Waving en route to the top.

 

The hills above the amphitheatre and a portrait of King Abdullah II.

A view of Amman and the amphitheatre from the Citadel. I am in Amman, for the next two weeks plus. Am looking forward to welcoming an interesting group of women (and one man) beginning Sunday. We'll tour Jordan's hot spots and the ancient Nabatean city of Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

I'll escort the group to some of my favourite places and introduce them to some intriguing local customs. We'll also receive landscape photography tips from Zohrab, Jordan's most renowned photographer. Wish you could join us! But we'll take lots of photos and will blog about the trip, so it is hoped you'll feel as though you're here!

Other views of the city. Click photos to view details.

 

Red alert

Seeing red, London.

If it becomes law, the UK's Digital Economy Bill is basically a license to steal, allowing commercial use of any photograph whose creator cannot be identified "through a suitably negligent search." Further the bill seeks to ban "non-consensual" photography in public places.

For months now, UK police have been stopping ordinary citizens and press photographers alike - as they were taking photos of public buildings and at tourist sites - and deleting their photos. Under Section s44 of the Terrorism Act 2000, police do not have the right to delete photos - or even view them, other than in very limited circumstances. In response to such over-zealous and unwarranted police action, photographers formed a group "I'm a photographer, not a terrorist." 

With the proposed Digital Economy Bill, it appears the British government wants to provide virtually free online content for businesses, while insuring photographers aren't easily rewarded or recognised for their work. In a country where an estimated 4.2 million CCTV cameras located every few feet record its citizens' practically every move, it is deeply ironic that the government is trying to censor photography in public.

I can't imagine these latest Draconian measures will prove popular with the tourism industry, or with the press trying to cover news events.

For more information about photographers' rights in the UK, visit Photorights.org and "I'm a photographer, not a terrorist."

Thank you, Romantic Homes!

A 1920s French mannequin wearing a vintage apron from Thailand and antique Jordanian and Bedouin ornate silver and coral necklaces (including as a headdress) and bracelets.

Many thanks to fabulous editor Jacqueline deMontravel for featuring Paris Parfait as a "Blog We Love" in the April issue of Romantic Homes magazine!

Jacqueline contacted me last November, just before my daughter and I were departing for Jordan. As requested, I sent some photos upon my return to Paris, but wasn't sure when my blog would be mentioned.

Alas, the magazine isn't available in Paris.  So it wasn't until today, when my friend Marilyn opened the magazine's latest issue and emailed me, that I knew the feature had been published, along with three of my photos. Such a lovely start to my Wednesday morning!

Merci bien, Romantic Homes! Now where can I find your magazine in Paris??!! I usually buy copies in London, but since Borders closed, difficult to find.

La vagabonde

Camels in Petra, Jordan.

Am busy trying to finish some projects, as well as preparing to depart for the Middle East. If I haven't caught up with your email or your blogs, I will soon. Check back later for a more substantial post.

Meanwhile, have you seen the World Press Photo award winners? Powerful images.

Shepherds tending their flock

Getting an unruly flock of sheep out of the road, Ajloun, Jordan.

Live sheep and goats were for sale all over the country on the eve of the Eid Muslim holiday.

A child tentatively touches a sheep.

Children continue to bother the sheep feeding at a trough, annoying this ram.

This little boy is a blur of motion as he touches a sheep, then turns to run.

  

After their purchase, this family heads home. Each animal costs around $250 and up. The sheep would have been slaughtered and eaten during the Eid celebrations.

The little boy (center) with energy to burn certainly enjoyed attention.

These laughing boys could barely stay still long enough for a photograph.

Young shepherds with their flock at twilight.

Doing more with less

 

Downward arrows, shop window and reflection of Oxford Street, London.

What could you do with less? These days, many of us are asking ourselves that question.

While the family that sold their house and moved to a smaller one, using proceeds to help fight hunger in Ghana is laudable, one doesn't have to travel to Africa to find poverty. Vast pockets of impoverished people live in the United States and in most countries. Shockingly, in the developed world, the only place where poverty is worse than the USA is Mexico!

As a child growing up in the Southern United States, I saw plenty of poverty, particularly in Georgia, Mississippi, Alabama, Arkansas, Louisiana and Tennessee. In all these states, many families didn't have enough to eat, much less adequate health care. They sent their children to school with ill-fitting hand-me-down clothes and often lived in squalid or substandard conditions, as that's all they could afford.

Poverty, ignorance and oppression are at the root of most of the world's ills. Education, in particular, is often unavailable to the poor and this, perhaps more than any other factor, matters. Without education, people are unable to think for themselves or rise above their humble beginnings. They're unable to better their environment or make wise choices that will inform their future.

In the West, we are spoiled. We have too many material things and we keep accumulating more.  We're besieged with endless advertising and marketing, suggesting we're not good enough. So we scramble to purchase a particular dress, a designer handbag, a luxurious mansion that we've been persuaded might make a difference in our lives. But the truth is, none of it matters.

We are enough. Without the designer clothes, the flash sportscar, the expensive jewelry, the fancy address, we are enough. If we have been educated to think for ourselves, be kind to others and use our talents to benefit not only ourselves, but others, we can move mountains. There's nothing stronger than sheer will and determination as a powerful force for good.

Living with less so that others have more doesn't suggest we must surrender all our comforts. It means that we deliberate more, when making decisions about how to spend our hard-earned money. In my case, I've started selling some of the antique furniture and collectibles I've accumulated over more than ten years in Europe. I'm donating clothing, furniture and money to charity. I'm discarding many beautiful pieces of decorative art in favour of useful tools, i.e. camera and computer gear that will help me generate income.

I'm reconsidering the clothes and shoes in my wardrobe and giving away items that no longer suit. Instead of purchasing hardback books (I consider books a necessity), I'm saving money by buying ebooks for my Kindle (unless the books are MacMillan's, who insist on charging considerably more than other publishers, even though ebooks cost them very little).

While still frequenting brocantes and flea markets, I'm thinking twice before buying. Am only scooping up rare things that I know I can re-sell for a profit. But I allow myself the occasional purchase, if something  tugs at my heartstrings. After all, no reason to be fanatical about living with less! But for every item that comes into the apartment, something else goes out. I've adhered to this rule for over two years and it's proved surprisingly effective.

I also donate my writing and photography skills to human rights work and political causes. Sometimes time and energy can be more effective than money.

Do you see signs of poverty in your city?  Have you made any major changes in your lifestyle and spending habits?

Making music

It's the weekend. Have some fun. Fix your hair in a daring new way. Get together with friends and make some music. Sing opera in the supermarket. Laugh, then laugh some more. Hug someone you love.

 

This group of musicians was entertaining patrons at Covent Garden, London.

 

A musical conversation.

Posing for the photographer.

Joyful.

Welcoming ladies descending the stairs.

Singing opera with passion and gusto.

 

Challenging the photographer.

 

Three-part harmony.

Grand finale.

Whatever your weekend plans, make the most of your time.

Four winners

Four colourful signs in Chinatown, London.

Dear readers, thank you for all your lovely comments and kudos for my four years of blogging! I appreciate each and every one of you. Alas, I can offer blog birthday prizes to only four readers.

Tonight my husband drew names from a French policeman's hat, as in the film Casablanca. Am happy to report the prize winners are Mary Ann, Mary H., Vida and Georgie. Each will receive a souvenir from the Paris flea markets. Please email your address to Bradford.Tara@gmail.com. Merci bien!

The Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project

Handmade fabric dolls at the Jordan River Foundation, Bani Hamida Mountain, Jordan.

A weaver puts finishing touches on a rust-coloured rug featuring numerous patterns. 

Last December my daughter Jordana and I made an impromptu visit to the Jordan River Foundation. The women were kind enough to give us tea, as well as allow us access to their showroom and their work area. Of course, a couple of beautiful handmade rugs came home with us!

The Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project has revived traditional Bedouin rug weaving in the Makawir community, with older women teaching rug-weaving techniques to younger generations. The effort was initiated in 1985 by Save the Children Federation. In 1998, the project was absorbed into the Jordan River Foundation. Women in several villages now help maintain the Jordanian rug-weaving tradition.

With hand-made looms and wooden spindles, the women create flat weave designs in pure wool. The colours and patterns result in stylish looks that blend beautifully with modern design, while remaining true to Jordan’s traditional rug-making techniques.

To date, the Bani Hamida Women's Weaving Project has utilised the skills of nearly 2000 Jordanian women, including spinners, weavers and dyers. These talented women produce unique, artistic designs renowned around the world.

 

Close-up detail of the rug panels.

 

Stacks of handmade rugs.

Trimming fringe on a small rug.

A container of rugs and wall-hangings.

A decorative wall-hanging.

 

Rugs in variations of browns, rusts and creams.

 

Aqua, rust and cream patterns.

 

Rusts, yellows, blues and greens in these rugs and wall-hangings.

 

 

Strong primary colours are dominant in these rugs and wall-hangings adorned by thick yarn tassels.

Scroll down the page for a post about the Bani Hamida weavers' yarn and wooden spindles.

Wool yarn used in Bani Hamida rugs

A weaver uses a wooden spindle for yarn at the Jordan River Foundation on Bani Hamida Mountain, Jordan. The beautiful rugs produced by Jordanian Bedouin women weavers are made by hand.

Unravelled yarn.

Balls of colourful yarn used for weaving rugs.

Compartments separate yarn via colour and shade.

 

Cream and white balls of yarn.

Happy birthday to King Abdullah II

Sunset at Ajloun Castle, Jordan.

Birthday greetings to His Majesty King Abdullah of Jordan, who turns 48 today. Am looking forward to returning next month to the beautiful Hashemite Kingdom.

When His Majesty was still HRH Prince Abdullah, he was an avid sportsman and champion rally car driver, in addition to his official duties. I have fond memories (and many photos) of those days, when I handled press and publicity for then-Prince Abdullah's team. His winning Opel Manta rally car is currently on display at the Royal Automobile Museum in Jordan (photos in an upcoming post).

All that glitters

Money exchange sign in historic downtown Amman, Jordan. After exchanging their money for Jordanian dinars, many foreigners (and locals) like to shop in the popular gold souk.

The vast array of 24-karat and 18-karat gold offerings may prove irresistible (although my daughter Jordana showed remarkable restraint).

Important to keep one's sense of humor, when confronted with such tempting choices. In the Middle East, gold is considered an essential part of a bridal dowry.

Years ago I bought a 24-karat gold bracelet and ring at the Amman gold market. When I was living in New York, the price of gold soared and I sold the jewelry at a profit.

Fancy a shopping expedition in Amman? An unexpected cancellation has left one space available for our Journey to Jordan March 1-8. Go here for more information about this chance to visit Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and for landscape photography tips from Zohrab.

Dream weaver

My daughter Jordana using an antique weaving loom in Madaba, Jordan.

"We all have our own life to pursue; our own kind of dream to be weaving. And we all have the power to make wishes come true, as long as we keep believing." - Louisa May Alcott

"Our life is composed greatly from dreams, from the unconscious and they must be brought into connection with action. They must be woven together." - Anais Nin

 

"We sleep but the loom of life never stops and the pattern which was weaving when the sun went down is weaving when it comes up in the morning." - Henry Ward Beecher

Neglected

Thick cobwebs and dirt collect in an oeil de boeuf window in a chateau near Versailles. The 19th-century house has been unloved and unlived in for years. The elderly owner has put the property up for sale.

Wooden shutters are flung wide to invite fresh air. The sunlight reveals cobwebs and winter's debris encasing the windows.

I hate to see beautiful old - and often historical - properties left to decay. My photographs of the crumbling Edmond de Rothschild estate, as well as of various Paris landmarks are in an upcoming book about ruined chateaus of France. It's due out in February; will provide more information after the author notifies me of the release date.

Zohrab: Jordan's premier photographer

Zohrab, November, 2009, Amman, Jordan.

I first met Zohrab in September, 1979 in New York. He was His Majesty King Hussein of Jordan's photographer; I was a young reporter covering the King's address to the United Nations General Assembly, as well as his meetings in New York.

Since then, Zohrab has become something of a legend in Jordan. He traveled with and photographed King Hussein and members of the Royal Family for many years. After King Hussein succumbed to cancer, Zohrab switched his focus to landscape and nature photography.

Zohrab is the author of ten stunning photography books. His award-winning work has appeared in countless magazines and other publications and was featured on CNN's "Inside the Middle East." Zohrab continues to take portraits of the Jordanian Royal Family. He also trains his lens on special features and events. Besides his diverse photography work, Zohrab is the managing director of The Capital Amman magazine.

I was thrilled when Zohrab agreed to provide landscape photography tips in Petra during our Journey to Jordan March 1-8. A last-minute cancellation has left one space available for this trip. It's a unique opportunity to see one of the New Seven Wonders of the World - and other historic sites - through the eyes of a master photographer! If interested, please contact me by February 1.

My Marrakesh

Meanwhile, my clever friend Maryam's blog My Marrakesh is a finalist in the 2010 Weblog Awards competition. Many of you are familiar with Maryam's lovely blog blending design, style, travel and shopping - always shopping - as well as references to her human rights work. So please go here and scroll to the right to vote for My Marrakesh under the Best African Weblog category.

Building blocks

Stacked stones and Roman pillars, Jerash, Jordan.

Roman pillars and stone walls, Jerash.

My daughter Jordana in Jerash, November, 2009.

"A great building must begin with the unmeasurable, must go through measurable means when it is being designed and in the end must be unmeasurable." - Philadelphia architect Louis Khan.

Am busy building the foundation for new projects. Back Monday with another post. Hope you're enjoying your weekend!

The uneasy art of the deal

They are coming tomorrow, the charming antiques dealers with passion for provenance and beauty.  As I survey the spilling-over cabinet de curiosites that my apartment has become - in preparation for the dealers and their checkbooks - I find my eyes welling with tears.

Tears for the white ironstone collection that never got displayed in a glass-doored black wooden cupboard; a sob for the 1930s chandeliers that were never suspended over a dining table or a bed and the 19th-century lithographs that were never hung on walls already crowded with art offerings. And especially, tears for the children's games, toys and baby things that there's simply no room to keep for future grandchildren. All these collectibles have been thwarted by the lack of space in this tiny Paris apartment.

I know; I know in my heart, that these are just things. And material possessions don't matter. But when I found these particular things - here, there and yonder - in flea markets and brocantes and antiques stores - I allowed myself to imagine the house these one-of-a-kind treasures might grace. I envisioned finally having a home; actually living in just one place; feeling "safe" (even though I don't believe safe havens exist); becoming intimately familiar with the creeks and moans of a building.

I didn't expect to live in the same tiny apartment for ten years, constantly searching for creative ways to enhance our very limited space (albeit in a wonderful neighbourhood).

In part because of my over-active imagination when shopping - or changing style preferences - I've given away furniture to a friend in England and three friends in France. I've loaned furniture to another friend. Still, what remains is too much for this tiny apartment and I don't expect our next space in Amsterdam to be all that much bigger.

As I've gone through my collections and contemplated selling or giving items away, I recognise a familiar pattern: years of living out of a suitcase, traveling from place to place, always moving. Every time I felt too "settled," I'd sell my furniture and move, taking only my clothes, books, dishes and favourite art and my daughter's clothes and toys or putting everything but the essentials in storage.

Nine suitcases

Once we left nine suitcases in Amman, never to be retrieved. Long story; let's just say a friend charged with their safety proved negligent. Another time I went to the US for two months, leaving two boxes and two suitcases with friends who worked for the UN. I returned to find these "friends" sold my things, including three original oil paintings that were gifts from the artists!  No, they didn't give me the proceeds and seemed genuinely surprised by my indignation.

In 1989 in San Francisco, I left precious belongings with a friend, while I went to the Middle East on assignment. She vanished, taking my things with her. So I have become accustomed to possessions disappearing (and so-called friends taking advantage of my good nature).

There's something in me that longs to be settled; to finally unpack all those bags (real and virtual) and stay in one place. But there's another part of me that is panicked at the prospect - which is why I sell things for a song, in order to move. That's why I have nearly 40 suitcases in the wine cellar, testimony to my conflicted nature:  love of travel, as well as acquisition/nesting. Many a trip I've returned bearing an extra bag to carry shopping finds. I've also loaned bags to friends visiting Paris whose shopping finds exceed their luggage capacity.

While I still don't have that home, I find myself wanting less things and more space. Yes, there are books and photographs and treasures I'm holding onto, no matter how small the space I inhabit. But the things that are important to me are the tools I need to create and communicate: my computer; my cameras; my lenses. All the rest is just window-dressing. And I learned long ago I don't need any of it to survive and even thrive.

Photo above shows a small portion of a "sewing" table, ready for the antique dealers.

Clearing space, earthquakes and travel

Musician in Petra, Jordan.

I have spent the entire weekend sorting through my antiques and collectibles, preparing for an antiques dealer's visit this week. The husband-and-wife team are bringing a big truck, so I'm hoping they'll take away certain pieces of furniture, as well as many other items. Then I'll have more space to breathe and fewer items to move early next year to Amsterdam.

I've also been going through my closet, gathering summer clothes for a French relief project for Haiti. Have donated money, as well, but wish I could do more. Having been through the Lomo Prieta earthquake in San Francisco in 1989, I've been struck by horrific photos showing the marked contrast between that damage and the current devastation in Haiti.

Most San Francisco residents will agree that if you have to be in an earthquake, San Francisco is the place to be: they know what to do. Fire, rescue and emergency services and much of the population are prepared for such an eventuality. Also, many buildings have had "earthquake-proof" retrofitting or renovation. In the '89 quake, I was on the 36th floor of the Pacific Telesis Tower, which swayed on giant springs, but didn't fall. In contrast, Haiti's across-the-board destruction is a stark reminder that most of us have much for which to be thankful.

The last few days I've been watching and reading the news from Haiti in small doses. In between, I've been escaping into Robert Mitchum films of the 1940s and '50s and trying to clear the never-ending email backlog.

I've also prepared some surprises for our upcoming trip to Jordan March 1-8. Registration is closed, but I'm planning another journey there in November. Two people already have signed up for that trip, which will involve off-the-beaten track travel, photography and more. Enrollment will be limited to ten; details will be announced later this spring. Hope you can join us!

Jubilant about Jordan

 

After wasting nearly three hours today communicating with incompetent staff at an increasingly-greedy airline, I decided to focus on something good. I remembered this simple little coffee/tea stand on the road to Petra, Jordan...

...and these precocious little Bedouin boys at Kerak Castle.

An ancient castle...

...hosting a secret passageway with a ghostly apparition.

 

I thought about these beautiful Roman pillars at Jerash...

... and the bagpiper and drummer at the Jerash Amphitheatre...

 

And at last, a plane ticket using airmiles was procured for my daughter Jordana (pictured in November with a musician).

Hope your day is yielding many positive gains!

Tiny little writing space

For days I've been waiting for enough sun to photograph my little home "office" (really just a corner of the salon, divided from the rest of the room by a bookcase). But the cold, grey winter's gloom  persists. Finally, I took photos using only lamplight (the zinc urn/lamp once was part of a weather vane on top of a French chateau) and with the flash (below). The cabinet d' curiositie to the right of the desk is a Napoleon III bookcase, which belonged to a professor at the Sorbonne. His grandson - who prefers modern furniture - sold it to me for a song. The "Louis Louis" chair was a gift from my friend Di Overton.

 

My new 17" Macbook Pro and 24" display screen. Until late last fall, I was a lifelong PC user (I still have a PC notebook loaded with photos and a netbook for travel, as well). At left is my iPod and speakers. The rest is decidely low-tech, i.e. an Arts & Crafts clock, an Art Nouveau frame accented with silver and opals and featuring a photo of an unknown French soldier; two Napoleon III globes; a 19th-century wooden sewing basket holding stationary and several 18th-century books.

The mercantile drawers containing computer gear and office supplies are 19th-century French. The art at right is by Vanessa Valencia. (At left, washed out by the lamplight, is a watercolour of a woman walking in a storm near the Taos Pueblo). A tall scientific speciman cloche holds 17th-century French documents and a gilt fragment, while a small cloche contains Christine Mason Miller's  collage "Your voice matters."

 

The red desk and bookcase are from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The wireless printer is on top of a small blue-grey chest from a French mercantile. A framed photograph of Afghan children is by Marianne Elliot. The Native American pottery oil painting is 19th-century French. A framed Italian prayer ornament is also 19th-century. Beneath it is a 2008 art piece by Jennifer Valentine. The Habitat bookcase (at left) holds mostly art and photography books featuring the work of Reza Deghati, Steve McCurry, David Alan Harvey, James Nachtwey, Galen Rowell, Sebastiao Salgado, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Dorothea Lange, William Albert Allard and others whose work I admire.

I'm hoping that next year when we move to Amsterdam, there will be enough space for a real office with a window, rather than a lamplit little corner. Won't you post photos of your own desk or space where you create?

Finding light in the shadows

Abstract light, Paris.

No doubt you're familiar with the expression "no good deed goes unpunished?" That's been the theme of the week for me. I've been so busy trying to complete projects for others, I've had little time to do my own work - or blog posts -  I'd planned. It's a recurring pattern of behaviour for me, saying yes to multiple requests, when I should say no.  What's frustrating - besides juggling too many balls in the air at once - is that all too often, the work I do to fulfill such favors is unappreciated. It leaves me feeling stressed and stretched too thin.

Something's got to give, so I'm streamlining my efforts and working only on those things that result either in personal satisfaction and/or monetary compensation; in better working and living conditions for those in need and education and/or justice and human rights. Ca suffit!

Will be back soon with current photos of my writing space for The Book Post.  Here's what my desk looked like back in May 2006. Won't you submit a photo of your own writing space?

Paris Parfait at Etsy

My dear friend Di - she of the brilliant  Designers' Block UK and stylish Ghost Furniture - has very kindly written a post about my new Etsy shop. Check it out; you never know what you may find, from one day to the next! Am still photographing and listing items daily. An Etsy link is in my sidebar. Merci bien!

Happy birthday Gillian!

When I saw this little Bedouin girl at Petra, leading a donkey larger than she, I was immediately struck by her determination. Somehow, she reminded me of my dear friend Gillian, who's always taking on intriguing projects, acquiring new skills, shaking things up, racing headlong down the road less traveled. Today is Gillian's birthday and no doubt, it's the beginning of a year of fun-filled adventures for her!  I'm  happy we'll get to spend some time together soon in Jordan. Won't you join me today in stopping by The Dreaming Press to extend best wishes to Gillian?

Bridge of Aspiration and dreams come true

Bridge of Aspiration, Royal Ballet, Covent Garden, London.

Have you seen the delightful film Man on Wire? It is the thrilling tale of Frenchman Phillipe Petit's 1974 stunning wire walk between the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center. The story is fascinating, not only because Petit made history, but because he took a huge goal that seemed impossible and step-by-step - and with the help of his friends - made it happen. By sheer will, determination, courage and imagination, he spun his gossamer dreams into reality.

Each of us has a dream that we actively pursue or one hovering at the edge of our subconscious; perhaps we try to suppress it, concerned about what others may think. Maybe we worry that we're too old; too tired; too unprepared. Negative thoughts that we're not "good enough" are always ready to undermine any tentative progress. But the dream stubbornly persists, nevertheless. It tugs at our heartstrings and infiltrates our thoughts. We have flashes of wistfulness, wondering, "what if?"  We have triumphant moments that seem to move us closer to our desire; at other times, setbacks - no matter how minor - leave us feeling confused and disoriented. And we wonder if the outcome is worth the effort.

Well I suggest to you, any obstacles that may appear are temporary. We are powerful. We have capabilities and strengths far beyond our imagination. We are blessed with magic and possibility. We may try to suppress the light we carry within us - for fear of outshining others - but that does no one any favors. Each of us has a purpose on this earth; a unique talent; a special gift.

"If you bring forth what is within you,

What you bring forth will save you.

If you do not bring forth what is within you,

What you do not bring forth will destroy you." —Jesus, from The Gospel According to Thomas

In the early years of my childhood, my family attended a Southern Baptist Church. The minister shouted terrifying hellfire and brimstone sermons, in contrast to the soothing songs we sang. One that lingers in my memory is This Little Light of Mine. An excerpt:

"This little light of mine, I'm going to let it shine...

...Hide it under a bushel? No! I'm going to let it shine.

Let it shine, all the time, let it shine..."

In 2010, my hope and prayer is that each of us will be bold enough to shine our own light; to follow our own path; to make our dreams real. Why not?

In case you haven't guessed, my theme word for the year is "light." Light as bright as the eyes can stand: sparkling, dazzling, intense light, sometimes filtered in shadow or softened to a candle's glow. Through writing and photography, I plan to shine the spotlight on people, places and issues of interest in Paris, as well as in my travels. Won't you join me?

Adieu 2009. Bienvenue 2010!

 

Wishing you a New Year filled with love and possibility. Ignore the naysayers; simply be the star that you are and let your light shine brightly!

 

 

 

 

Holiday vignettes styled by Gabrielle Turlan. As always, click photos to view details.

Christmas blessings

Madonna and child, photographed through glass, Church of St. George, Madaba, Jordan.

Merry Christmas! Joyeux Noel! Feliz Navidad!

On this day of joy and remembrance, my prayers are for more enlightenment in this world: for more justice and less repression; for more hope and less fear and for compassion and care for those less fortunate. And no more walls; please, let's tear down all the walls; break apart the barriers; eclipse arbitrary borders. What unites us is more powerful than what divides us.

I also pray for grace and strength as we continue to face challenges and change, as well as for some small measure of peace in our hearts.

Silent night

Christmas star ornament, Paris.

"After Jesus was born in Bethlehem in Judea, during the time of King Herod, Magi from the east came to Jerusalem and asked, "Where is the one who has been born king of the Jews? We saw his star in the east and have come to worship him."

"...and the star they had seen in the east went ahead of them until it stopped over the place where the child was. When they saw the star, they were overjoyed. On coming to the house, they saw the child with his mother Mary and they bowed down and worshipped him. Then they opened their treasures and presented him with gifts of gold and of incense and of myrrh. And having been warned in a dream not to go back to Herod, they returned to their country by another route." - The Gift of the Magi, Matthew 2: 1-12, the Holy Bible.

Lighting the way

Candles lit in prayer, St. George Church, Madaba, Jordan.

"...like a living hymn, written in light."  - N.P. Willis

The lovely Se'lah of Necessary Room is hosting a Christmas Gift of Jewels. Today, Paris Parfait is offering an antique French book to a winner, chosen from a drawing on January 7. Stop by Se'lah's place to enter to win the book, as well as great prizes from other bloggers.

Winter solstice

Light and shadows, Mount Nebo, Jordan. 

"Look round and round...and see even here, upon a winter's day, how beautiful the shadows are! Alas! It is the nature of their kind to be so. The loveliest things in life...are but shadows and they come and go and change and fade away..." - Charles Dickens

Scroll down the page for more photos of Mount Nebo.

And my thanks to the talented Anahata Katkin for her lovely kudos about Paris Parfait! A big merci goes to my dear friend Vanessa, who told me about Anahata's post. Not only that, but Vanessa - she of the incredible art genius and brilliant imagination - has created banners for my new Etsy shop, coming soon. Merci bien!

Mount Nebo

The Brazen Serpent sculpture by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni at Mount Nebo, Jordan. It is symbolic of the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness and the cross upon which Jesus Christ was crucified.

Mount Nebo is believed to be the place where Moses first glimpsed the Promised Land. "And Moses went up from the plains of Moab to Mount Nebo, the top of Pisgah, which is opposite Jericho." - Deuteronomy 34:1. According to Christian and Jewish tradition, Moses was buried on this mountain. However, his final resting place remains a mystery. Tradition also suggests the Prophet Jeremiah hid the tabernacle, as well as the Ark of the Covenant on Mount Nebo.

View of the Holy Land from Mount Nebo. On a clear day, you can see Jerusalem and Jericho.

 

Memorial stone near entranceway. When I lived in Jordan, we attended Easter sunrise services here.

 

A sculpture honouring Pope John Paul II's visit in 2000. Pope Benedict visited Mount Nebo in May 2009.

 

Mosaic floors uncovered in 20th-century excavations.  

In 1933 at the highest point of the mountain, Syagha, the remains of a church and monastery were found. The church was built in the second half of the 4th century to commemorate the place where Moses died. The church was enlarged late in the fifth century and rebuilt in 597. Six tombs have been discovered beneath the church's mosaic floors. Excavation of various structures currently are in progress.

 

Mosaic from the Kayanos Church.

 

Mosaic inscription.

 

Palestino-Aramaic inscription from the Kayanos Church.

Historic stone overlooking the Jordan Valley.

Bonne anniversaire Jordana!

My daughter Jordana in an unguarded moment, Amman, Jordan.

Happy birthday, Jordana! Here's to your first 25 years of love, fun, challenges, opportunities, travel, art and adventure. I hope your future shines even brighter, with endless possibilities for joy and inspiration.

Citizen of the Month's blogger online holiday concert

Vintage Christmas ornaments at my Paris apartment.

He's done it again! The clever and talented Neil of Citizen of the Month is hosting his Fourth Annual Blogger Christmahanukwanzaakah Online Holiday Concert. Go here to listen to songs, watch videos and view photos from bloggers.

Blanc neige

Snowflakes falling this morning in Paris. Click photos to view detail.

The courtyard of our apartment building, coated with snow. It's the first real snowfall of the season.

 

A street lantern is at the center of this photo taken from my second-floor balcony. Beyond is the Bois du Boulogne, blanketed in white.

 

Bamboo and other snow-covered trees.

 

Think pink

1950s Royal typewriter and Pottery Barn reproduction phone on an 18th-century wine-tasting table.

I blame Lara Rossignol. It's her fault that I fell in love with her pink vintage typewriter, then scoured the internet to find a similar one. I was lucky to get this one, that's been reconditioned and repainted in that amazing Pepto-Bismol-like pink (which matches the carnation pink plates in my Fiestaware collection). The typewriter arrived last month - complete with its orginal case and magazine advertisement - after La Poste first delivered it to a French guy by mistake. I'm still trying to find time to type a letter!

Tune in this weekend to see photos of my high-tech work space.

Scroll down the page for an additional post today.

The Dead Sea

 

A hotel's private beach at the Dead Sea, Jordan.

 

Steps leading to the beach.

 

Visitors floating in the Dead Sea.

 

Rubbing on Dead Sea mud, known for its curative and restorative properties. At water's edge, clumps of salt accumulate, a natural pumice for one's feet.

Wading in the water (my daughter Jordana is at the center of this photo).

A practically-deserted swimming pool and fountain.

 

Silhouettes at sunset.

 

Jordana laughing as a camel stands up. It was her first time riding a camel since childhood. Those are flies buzzing around his head, thanks to the high temperature near the Dead Sea.

A guide keeps control of the reins, to prevent the camel from racing.

Jordana returns from her jaunt down the corniche.

Jordana preparing to dismount the camel.

 

On the way back to Amman, we stopped at this roadside produce stand. Our driver told the vendor, "We don't want to buy anything from you; we just want to take your picture." The seller happily agreed, posing for several photos with his son. This was in sharp contrast to another vendor down the  road, who - the minute he saw my camera, before I had a chance to say a word - started shouting "No pictures! No pictures!" And he refused to sell anything to our driver.

Crates of tomatoes, directly from the farm.

 

The proud vendor shows off his fresh oranges. Our driver purchased two boxes of oranges and lemons.

 

The fruit-and-vegetable seller and his young sons pose for the camera.

 

The setting sun.

Check back later for photos of the Dead Sea shot from a fantastic panorama in the mountains. Scroll down the page to see other photos of Jordan, including the River Jordan and the baptismal site of Jesus Christ.

The River Jordan baptismal site of Jesus Christ

The River Jordan near the site where Jesus Christ was baptised. 

The muddy waters of the River Jordan.

 

 

A portion of dry and cracked riverbed.

 

The bank of the River Jordan.

Mosaic at the site where Jesus Christ was baptised. Because the land near the Dead Sea historically has been the site of much conflict - including the 1967 War or Six Day War - landmines are still being discovered and detonated by specialists. One was detonated while we were standing at this location, resulting in a loud explosion. It helped bring home what it's like to live with conflict virtually on one's doorstep. Since the 1994 Peace Treaty between Jordan and Israel, the site is no longer considered a military border zone. However, visitors to this area - including Pope Benedict - are led by licensed guides and restricted to specific paths.

Jesus Christ walked down these steps to be baptised by John the Baptist. According to the Bible, Matthew 3: 16-17, "As soon as Jesus was baptised, he went up out of the water. At that moment heaven was opened and he saw the Spirit of God descending like a dove and lighting on him. And a voice from heaven said, 'This is my Son, whom I love, with him I am well pleased.'"

In A.D. 570, Antoninus of Piacenza noted, "By the site of the Jordan...where the Lord was baptised, at the place where the water returned to its bed...marble steps descend into the water."

Read more about other spiritual events believed to have occurred here.

 

View of a Coptic church from the bank of the River Jordan. Four other churches and a mosque are also under construction in the area.

 

 

The church bells, crosses and the Jordanian flag on an adjacent wing with arched windows.

 

Hand-carved seats and stained glass featuring crosses inside the church.

 

Ceiling mural of Jesus Christ and a brass chandelier.

Murals depicting scenes described in the Holy Bible.

 

 

 

High murals and domed ceiling.

See other photos of Jordan here, here and here, with many more to follow.

Happy birthday Vanessa!

Horse and buggy, Petra, Jordan.

Give my friend Vanessa Valencia 15 minutes with this horse and buggy and she'd have it transformed into a magical gypsy caravan. She has a knack for taking simple things and creating something spectacular. She's also an artiste extraordinaire, with loads of talent. Several of her original paintings are now in Paris, in my own little Vanessa Valencia Gallery.

Today is her birthday and I'm joining many of Vanessa's friends and admirers in wishing her a Bonne Anniversaire!

Petra: The rose-red city's natural beauty

The Siq, entrance to Al Khazneh or the Treasury, Petra. All photographs © Tara Bradford 2009.

 

The Treasury became world-famous after its role in the 1989 film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

 

While I have visited Petra many times over the years, I always feel overwhelmed by its magnificent beauty and stunning light. On this visit, we arrived just after 6 a.m. and stayed until noon. The previous evening, we witnessed the sun setting over the mountains.

 

Shades of brown, peach and cream appear on the ceilings and columns of deep caves in Petra.

Gorgeous swirls of colour in natural rock formations.

My daughter Jordana is a blur of motion while climbing ancient steps in this vast former Nabatean city. Join us on a Journey to Jordan March 1 -8 and you can see the stunning Petra valley for yourself. Plus, you'll have the benefit of landscape photography instruction from Zohrab, Jordan's premier photographer. Zohrab is the author of ten photography books. He also was the personal photographer for the late King Hussein of Jordan.

Check back later for many more photos of Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Petra is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Citadel

The Citadel in silhouette, Amman, Jordan.

 

The Temple of Hercules overlooks the city of Amman. The Citadel's museum houses fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls, among other rare antiquities.

 

The famous Dead Sea Scroll fragments.

 

  

One of the many sculptural antiquities at the Citadel's Archeological Museum.

Marhaba from Jordan

My daughter Jordana is wearing an antique Palestinian hat, hand-stitched and covered with coins. A similar design is in a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre, Amman, Jordan.

Jordana wearing an old Bedouin silver necklace, Amman, Jordan. Check back later for more images from Jordan.

Similar hats in a local museum.