Paris Parfait

Of textiles and tattoos

These antique textiles and jewelry (photos shot through glass) are on display at a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre. I forgot to bring a card reader and have had erratic internet service, so no chance yet to extract photos I've been taking this week. On Thursday, I visited the Jordan River Foundation's textile division, to watch talented women work on some stunning collaborative projects. More about their creations in another post.

Meanwhile, I'm working on a photographic essay and have been meeting the most astonishing Bedouin women. I'm thrilled with the images, as well as the experiences. Such amazing struggles these strong women have endured! I've been very privileged to spend time with them, not to mention the honour of photographing them.

William, my trusty driver and assistant and I have been trekking all over the country, seeking introductions to these women. Some of their stories are heartbreaking; others, inspiring. Their rich histories are etched on their faces and not just in tattoos, a dying tradition that's now frowned upon among Arab tribes.One lively woman told me she wants a copy of her photo, to display it in the church at her funeral!

I photographed a wonderful woman and her eight-year-old granddaughter, wearing their hair in matching braids. They insisted on giving me a beautiful traditional dress they'd hand-embroidered. Of course I couldn't accept, without paying them for it.

Some of the images I've captured were difficult to take. A blind woman was living in a tent swept bare of all but basic necessities. With every click of the camera shutter, she let out a sigh. The woman was desperately poor, as were many of the Bedouin families I encountered.

One large extended family lived among the ruins in an ancient stone village near Hmod. The village elders were happy to have their photos taken, but a young married woman sitting on a blanket drinking tea jumped up and ran away, even though I assured her I wouldn't take her picture. In contrast, the sheik in charge of the tribe was pleased to pose and discussed his efforts to try to improve their lot.

Today in our travels we encountered torrential lashing rains, which left roaring streams of muddy water rushing through the desert and across roads. Rocks fell from cliffs onto the roads below, while the desert was saturated, with giant pools of excess water remaining on the surface. On a mountain route near Kerak we were forced to turn back, as water flooded the road. But it was worth every inconvenience for the photos!

Antique textiles and heavy silver jewelry on display at a folkloric museum adjacent to the Amman Amphitheatre.

On Saturday, am off to a different part of Jordan, in search of more tattooed women in their colourful embroidered costumes.

And Sunday and Monday, the group of photographers arrive for the grand tour. We have a jam-packed schedule and I'm so excited to show them the best of the Kingdom's natural wonders.

Hope you're having an adventure or two in your corner of the world! Do tell!

Leave a comment about your  latest adventure or your plans to welcome spring and I'll send the winner - drawn March 10 from commenters' names - a souvenir from Jordan. Good luck!

Obsession with letters

If you've previously read Paris Parfait, you're no doubt aware of my obsession for typefaces and fonts. I could happily live in a typeface foundry, with an abundance of old printers' tables and trays filled with metal type; the pungent aroma of printer's ink in the air.

It probably has something to do with my newspaper background, cemented with my first visit to the Putlizer-Prize winning newspaper the Arkansas Gazette, where I watched freshly-printed newspapers fly off the press.

Sadly, the Gazette was bought by Gannett Newspapers, whose inept management proved the demise of the "oldest newspaper west of the Mississippi." Bill Clinton then ran his 1992 presidential campaign from the Gazette's elegant office building.

Alas, those days are over, both for newspapers and for typeface foundries. Today typeface design is more high-tech, once initial graphic design stages are complete. But the wooden letters or metal type blocks remain. I often buy them at brocantes or flea markets.

Last month I sold some huge zinc letters, worried I'd never find a proper place for them (plus, they were taking up a lot of space). But a few favourites remain, including a 1920s French cherry-picker's basket of assorted wooden letters (pictured). I also have three giant red metal letters spelling the word "ART" and four big wooden letters from a French restaurant that I alternate to spell "DARE" or "READ."

Last year when my lovely friend Di Overton referred me to Kent & London and their beautiful oak alphabet drawers, I fell head over heels. Even a waiting list didn't deter my enthusiasm. Recently Kent & London's charming owner and master craftsman Luke Ellis (aided by his friend Lloyd Hobbard-Mitchell) actually hand-delivered the chest, driving from Whistable, England to Paris! Such superb service, plus I got to hear Luke talk about his inspiration for the alphabet drawers and its rich patina resembling old typeface letters.

Meanwhile Lloyd is about to abandon his life in England in favor of rather exotic diving adventures in Egypt and Spain. I'm looking forward to following his exploits in his new blog The Meandering Gullbad Nogbee.

I'm using Kent & London's photograph for this post, as due to space constraints, the chest is temporarily in a back room; not exactly the proper setting. Am planning to giving it pride of place in Amsterdam. The alphabet drawers are perfect for holding photography equipment and photo cds. Thank you, Luke (and to my dear husband, who graciously considered the alphabet drawers as my Valentine's present).

Kent & London's hand-crafted alphabet drawers.

Red alert

Seeing red, London.

If it becomes law, the UK's Digital Economy Bill is basically a license to steal, allowing commercial use of any photograph whose creator cannot be identified "through a suitably negligent search." Further the bill seeks to ban "non-consensual" photography in public places.

For months now, UK police have been stopping ordinary citizens and press photographers alike - as they were taking photos of public buildings and at tourist sites - and deleting their photos. Under Section s44 of the Terrorism Act 2000, police do not have the right to delete photos - or even view them, other than in very limited circumstances. In response to such over-zealous and unwarranted police action, photographers formed a group "I'm a photographer, not a terrorist." 

With the proposed Digital Economy Bill, it appears the British government wants to provide virtually free online content for businesses, while insuring photographers aren't easily rewarded or recognised for their work. In a country where an estimated 4.2 million CCTV cameras located every few feet record its citizens' practically every move, it is deeply ironic that the government is trying to censor photography in public.

I can't imagine these latest Draconian measures will prove popular with the tourism industry, or with the press trying to cover news events.

For more information about photographers' rights in the UK, visit Photorights.org and "I'm a photographer, not a terrorist."

Thank you, Romantic Homes!

A 1920s French mannequin wearing a vintage apron from Thailand and antique Jordanian and Bedouin ornate silver and coral necklaces (including as a headdress) and bracelets.

Many thanks to fabulous editor Jacqueline deMontravel for featuring Paris Parfait as a "Blog We Love" in the April issue of Romantic Homes magazine!

Jacqueline contacted me last November, just before my daughter and I were departing for Jordan. As requested, I sent some photos upon my return to Paris, but wasn't sure when my blog would be mentioned.

Alas, the magazine isn't available in Paris.  So it wasn't until today, when my friend Marilyn opened the magazine's latest issue and emailed me, that I knew the feature had been published, along with three of my photos. Such a lovely start to my Wednesday morning!

Merci bien, Romantic Homes! Now where can I find your magazine in Paris??!! I usually buy copies in London, but since Borders closed, difficult to find.

Two hearts

Macaroon double heart tarts stuffed with strawberries and creme and sprinkled with pistachio nuts, from a Paris boulangerie. The platter is 1950s American and the lace-trimmed linen, vintage French.

As Emily Dickinson noted, "That love is all there is, is all we know of love."  Wishing you a very Happy Valentine's Day!

Shepherds tending their flock

Getting an unruly flock of sheep out of the road, Ajloun, Jordan.

Live sheep and goats were for sale all over the country on the eve of the Eid Muslim holiday.

A child tentatively touches a sheep.

Children continue to bother the sheep feeding at a trough, annoying this ram.

This little boy is a blur of motion as he touches a sheep, then turns to run.

  

After their purchase, this family heads home. Each animal costs around $250 and up. The sheep would have been slaughtered and eaten during the Eid celebrations.

The little boy (center) with energy to burn certainly enjoyed attention.

These laughing boys could barely stay still long enough for a photograph.

Young shepherds with their flock at twilight.

Doing more with less

 

Downward arrows, shop window and reflection of Oxford Street, London.

What could you do with less? These days, many of us are asking ourselves that question.

While the family that sold their house and moved to a smaller one, using proceeds to help fight hunger in Ghana is laudable, one doesn't have to travel to Africa to find poverty. Vast pockets of impoverished people live in the United States and in most countries. Shockingly, in the developed world, the only place where poverty is worse than the USA is Mexico!

As a child growing up in the Southern United States, I saw plenty of poverty, particularly in Georgia, Mississippi, Alabama, Arkansas, Louisiana and Tennessee. In all these states, many families didn't have enough to eat, much less adequate health care. They sent their children to school with ill-fitting hand-me-down clothes and often lived in squalid or substandard conditions, as that's all they could afford.

Poverty, ignorance and oppression are at the root of most of the world's ills. Education, in particular, is often unavailable to the poor and this, perhaps more than any other factor, matters. Without education, people are unable to think for themselves or rise above their humble beginnings. They're unable to better their environment or make wise choices that will inform their future.

In the West, we are spoiled. We have too many material things and we keep accumulating more.  We're besieged with endless advertising and marketing, suggesting we're not good enough. So we scramble to purchase a particular dress, a designer handbag, a luxurious mansion that we've been persuaded might make a difference in our lives. But the truth is, none of it matters.

We are enough. Without the designer clothes, the flash sportscar, the expensive jewelry, the fancy address, we are enough. If we have been educated to think for ourselves, be kind to others and use our talents to benefit not only ourselves, but others, we can move mountains. There's nothing stronger than sheer will and determination as a powerful force for good.

Living with less so that others have more doesn't suggest we must surrender all our comforts. It means that we deliberate more, when making decisions about how to spend our hard-earned money. In my case, I've started selling some of the antique furniture and collectibles I've accumulated over more than ten years in Europe. I'm donating clothing, furniture and money to charity. I'm discarding many beautiful pieces of decorative art in favour of useful tools, i.e. camera and computer gear that will help me generate income.

I'm reconsidering the clothes and shoes in my wardrobe and giving away items that no longer suit. Instead of purchasing hardback books (I consider books a necessity), I'm saving money by buying ebooks for my Kindle (unless the books are MacMillan's, who insist on charging considerably more than other publishers, even though ebooks cost them very little).

While still frequenting brocantes and flea markets, I'm thinking twice before buying. Am only scooping up rare things that I know I can re-sell for a profit. But I allow myself the occasional purchase, if something  tugs at my heartstrings. After all, no reason to be fanatical about living with less! But for every item that comes into the apartment, something else goes out. I've adhered to this rule for over two years and it's proved surprisingly effective.

I also donate my writing and photography skills to human rights work and political causes. Sometimes time and energy can be more effective than money.

Do you see signs of poverty in your city?  Have you made any major changes in your lifestyle and spending habits?

Making music

It's the weekend. Have some fun. Fix your hair in a daring new way. Get together with friends and make some music. Sing opera in the supermarket. Laugh, then laugh some more. Hug someone you love.

 

This group of musicians was entertaining patrons at Covent Garden, London.

 

A musical conversation.

Posing for the photographer.

Joyful.

Welcoming ladies descending the stairs.

Singing opera with passion and gusto.

 

Challenging the photographer.

 

Three-part harmony.

Grand finale.

Whatever your weekend plans, make the most of your time.

Brocante featuring old books and papers

If you love old letters, documents and books as much as I do, you'll undoubtedly enjoy the Antiquites Brocante  Livres et Papiers Anciens beginning Friday, Feb. 5 at  Halle Freyssinet. The event at 55, bd. Vincent Auriol continues from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily through February 14th.

Be sure and stop by my friend Gunnar Pettersson's Stand No. 418 for an intriguing selection of antiques and collectibles. Take the Metro Line 13 to Chevaleret. Happy hunting!

Photos above and below of 18th-century documents.

 

A June 1910 issue of Le Parisien magazine.

 

An early 20th-century handwritten book of French poetry.

All that glitters

Money exchange sign in historic downtown Amman, Jordan. After exchanging their money for Jordanian dinars, many foreigners (and locals) like to shop in the popular gold souk.

The vast array of 24-karat and 18-karat gold offerings may prove irresistible (although my daughter Jordana showed remarkable restraint).

Important to keep one's sense of humor, when confronted with such tempting choices. In the Middle East, gold is considered an essential part of a bridal dowry.

Years ago I bought a 24-karat gold bracelet and ring at the Amman gold market. When I was living in New York, the price of gold soared and I sold the jewelry at a profit.

Fancy a shopping expedition in Amman? An unexpected cancellation has left one space available for our Journey to Jordan March 1-8. Go here for more information about this chance to visit Petra, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and for landscape photography tips from Zohrab.

Dream weaver

My daughter Jordana using an antique weaving loom in Madaba, Jordan.

"We all have our own life to pursue; our own kind of dream to be weaving. And we all have the power to make wishes come true, as long as we keep believing." - Louisa May Alcott

"Our life is composed greatly from dreams, from the unconscious and they must be brought into connection with action. They must be woven together." - Anais Nin

 

"We sleep but the loom of life never stops and the pattern which was weaving when the sun went down is weaving when it comes up in the morning." - Henry Ward Beecher

Neglected

Thick cobwebs and dirt collect in an oeil de boeuf window in a chateau near Versailles. The 19th-century house has been unloved and unlived in for years. The elderly owner has put the property up for sale.

Wooden shutters are flung wide to invite fresh air. The sunlight reveals cobwebs and winter's debris encasing the windows.

I hate to see beautiful old - and often historical - properties left to decay. My photographs of the crumbling Edmond de Rothschild estate, as well as of various Paris landmarks are in an upcoming book about ruined chateaus of France. It's due out in February; will provide more information after the author notifies me of the release date.

The uneasy art of the deal

They are coming tomorrow, the charming antiques dealers with passion for provenance and beauty.  As I survey the spilling-over cabinet de curiosites that my apartment has become - in preparation for the dealers and their checkbooks - I find my eyes welling with tears.

Tears for the white ironstone collection that never got displayed in a glass-doored black wooden cupboard; a sob for the 1930s chandeliers that were never suspended over a dining table or a bed and the 19th-century lithographs that were never hung on walls already crowded with art offerings. And especially, tears for the children's games, toys and baby things that there's simply no room to keep for future grandchildren. All these collectibles have been thwarted by the lack of space in this tiny Paris apartment.

I know; I know in my heart, that these are just things. And material possessions don't matter. But when I found these particular things - here, there and yonder - in flea markets and brocantes and antiques stores - I allowed myself to imagine the house these one-of-a-kind treasures might grace. I envisioned finally having a home; actually living in just one place; feeling "safe" (even though I don't believe safe havens exist); becoming intimately familiar with the creeks and moans of a building.

I didn't expect to live in the same tiny apartment for ten years, constantly searching for creative ways to enhance our very limited space (albeit in a wonderful neighbourhood).

In part because of my over-active imagination when shopping - or changing style preferences - I've given away furniture to a friend in England and three friends in France. I've loaned furniture to another friend. Still, what remains is too much for this tiny apartment and I don't expect our next space in Amsterdam to be all that much bigger.

As I've gone through my collections and contemplated selling or giving items away, I recognise a familiar pattern: years of living out of a suitcase, traveling from place to place, always moving. Every time I felt too "settled," I'd sell my furniture and move, taking only my clothes, books, dishes and favourite art and my daughter's clothes and toys or putting everything but the essentials in storage.

Nine suitcases

Once we left nine suitcases in Amman, never to be retrieved. Long story; let's just say a friend charged with their safety proved negligent. Another time I went to the US for two months, leaving two boxes and two suitcases with friends who worked for the UN. I returned to find these "friends" sold my things, including three original oil paintings that were gifts from the artists!  No, they didn't give me the proceeds and seemed genuinely surprised by my indignation.

In 1989 in San Francisco, I left precious belongings with a friend, while I went to the Middle East on assignment. She vanished, taking my things with her. So I have become accustomed to possessions disappearing (and so-called friends taking advantage of my good nature).

There's something in me that longs to be settled; to finally unpack all those bags (real and virtual) and stay in one place. But there's another part of me that is panicked at the prospect - which is why I sell things for a song, in order to move. That's why I have nearly 40 suitcases in the wine cellar, testimony to my conflicted nature:  love of travel, as well as acquisition/nesting. Many a trip I've returned bearing an extra bag to carry shopping finds. I've also loaned bags to friends visiting Paris whose shopping finds exceed their luggage capacity.

While I still don't have that home, I find myself wanting less things and more space. Yes, there are books and photographs and treasures I'm holding onto, no matter how small the space I inhabit. But the things that are important to me are the tools I need to create and communicate: my computer; my cameras; my lenses. All the rest is just window-dressing. And I learned long ago I don't need any of it to survive and even thrive.

Photo above shows a small portion of a "sewing" table, ready for the antique dealers.

Clearing space, earthquakes and travel

Musician in Petra, Jordan.

I have spent the entire weekend sorting through my antiques and collectibles, preparing for an antiques dealer's visit this week. The husband-and-wife team are bringing a big truck, so I'm hoping they'll take away certain pieces of furniture, as well as many other items. Then I'll have more space to breathe and fewer items to move early next year to Amsterdam.

I've also been going through my closet, gathering summer clothes for a French relief project for Haiti. Have donated money, as well, but wish I could do more. Having been through the Lomo Prieta earthquake in San Francisco in 1989, I've been struck by horrific photos showing the marked contrast between that damage and the current devastation in Haiti.

Most San Francisco residents will agree that if you have to be in an earthquake, San Francisco is the place to be: they know what to do. Fire, rescue and emergency services and much of the population are prepared for such an eventuality. Also, many buildings have had "earthquake-proof" retrofitting or renovation. In the '89 quake, I was on the 36th floor of the Pacific Telesis Tower, which swayed on giant springs, but didn't fall. In contrast, Haiti's across-the-board destruction is a stark reminder that most of us have much for which to be thankful.

The last few days I've been watching and reading the news from Haiti in small doses. In between, I've been escaping into Robert Mitchum films of the 1940s and '50s and trying to clear the never-ending email backlog.

I've also prepared some surprises for our upcoming trip to Jordan March 1-8. Registration is closed, but I'm planning another journey there in November. Two people already have signed up for that trip, which will involve off-the-beaten track travel, photography and more. Enrollment will be limited to ten; details will be announced later this spring. Hope you can join us!

Tiny little writing space

For days I've been waiting for enough sun to photograph my little home "office" (really just a corner of the salon, divided from the rest of the room by a bookcase). But the cold, grey winter's gloom  persists. Finally, I took photos using only lamplight (the zinc urn/lamp once was part of a weather vane on top of a French chateau) and with the flash (below). The cabinet d' curiositie to the right of the desk is a Napoleon III bookcase, which belonged to a professor at the Sorbonne. His grandson - who prefers modern furniture - sold it to me for a song. The "Louis Louis" chair was a gift from my friend Di Overton.

 

My new 17" Macbook Pro and 24" display screen. Until late last fall, I was a lifelong PC user (I still have a PC notebook loaded with photos and a netbook for travel, as well). At left is my iPod and speakers. The rest is decidely low-tech, i.e. an Arts & Crafts clock, an Art Nouveau frame accented with silver and opals and featuring a photo of an unknown French soldier; two Napoleon III globes; a 19th-century wooden sewing basket holding stationary and several 18th-century books.

The mercantile drawers containing computer gear and office supplies are 19th-century French. The art at right is by Vanessa Valencia. (At left, washed out by the lamplight, is a watercolour of a woman walking in a storm near the Taos Pueblo). A tall scientific speciman cloche holds 17th-century French documents and a gilt fragment, while a small cloche contains Christine Mason Miller's  collage "Your voice matters."

 

The red desk and bookcase are from Santa Fe, New Mexico. The wireless printer is on top of a small blue-grey chest from a French mercantile. A framed photograph of Afghan children is by Marianne Elliot. The Native American pottery oil painting is 19th-century French. A framed Italian prayer ornament is also 19th-century. Beneath it is a 2008 art piece by Jennifer Valentine. The Habitat bookcase (at left) holds mostly art and photography books featuring the work of Reza Deghati, Steve McCurry, David Alan Harvey, James Nachtwey, Galen Rowell, Sebastiao Salgado, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Dorothea Lange, William Albert Allard and others whose work I admire.

I'm hoping that next year when we move to Amsterdam, there will be enough space for a real office with a window, rather than a lamplit little corner. Won't you post photos of your own desk or space where you create?

Barbie in Paris

Barbie at 50? A vitrine at Galeries Lafayette, Paris.

Galeries Lafayette. What about that cotton candy-like hairdo? This look may be a little risque for Barbie.

 

Vitrine on Boulevard Haussmann.

When you were a child, did you play with Barbie and/or Sindy (in Europe)? My favourite was Solo in the Spotlight Barbie. Remember Midge, Francie and Skipper?

Do you still have your childhood Barbies? My two brothers demolished mine, but  my daughter Jordana still has a few of her favourites from childhood. However, she lost about 30 Barbies, when we left nine suitcases in the Middle East (when she was eight years old). A friend was supposed to bring them to London, but it never happened. Guess some other little girl enjoyed playing with Jordana's Barbie collection.

 

A cosmetics and perfume shop in Covent Garden, London. That slogan is so Barbie-like, isn't it?

Finding light in the shadows

Abstract light, Paris.

No doubt you're familiar with the expression "no good deed goes unpunished?" That's been the theme of the week for me. I've been so busy trying to complete projects for others, I've had little time to do my own work - or blog posts -  I'd planned. It's a recurring pattern of behaviour for me, saying yes to multiple requests, when I should say no.  What's frustrating - besides juggling too many balls in the air at once - is that all too often, the work I do to fulfill such favors is unappreciated. It leaves me feeling stressed and stretched too thin.

Something's got to give, so I'm streamlining my efforts and working only on those things that result either in personal satisfaction and/or monetary compensation; in better working and living conditions for those in need and education and/or justice and human rights. Ca suffit!

Will be back soon with current photos of my writing space for The Book Post.  Here's what my desk looked like back in May 2006. Won't you submit a photo of your own writing space?

Paris Parfait at Etsy

My dear friend Di - she of the brilliant  Designers' Block UK and stylish Ghost Furniture - has very kindly written a post about my new Etsy shop. Check it out; you never know what you may find, from one day to the next! Am still photographing and listing items daily. An Etsy link is in my sidebar. Merci bien!

Happy birthday Gillian!

When I saw this little Bedouin girl at Petra, leading a donkey larger than she, I was immediately struck by her determination. Somehow, she reminded me of my dear friend Gillian, who's always taking on intriguing projects, acquiring new skills, shaking things up, racing headlong down the road less traveled. Today is Gillian's birthday and no doubt, it's the beginning of a year of fun-filled adventures for her!  I'm  happy we'll get to spend some time together soon in Jordan. Won't you join me today in stopping by The Dreaming Press to extend best wishes to Gillian?

Bridge of Aspiration and dreams come true

Bridge of Aspiration, Royal Ballet, Covent Garden, London.

Have you seen the delightful film Man on Wire? It is the thrilling tale of Frenchman Phillipe Petit's 1974 stunning wire walk between the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center. The story is fascinating, not only because Petit made history, but because he took a huge goal that seemed impossible and step-by-step - and with the help of his friends - made it happen. By sheer will, determination, courage and imagination, he spun his gossamer dreams into reality.

Each of us has a dream that we actively pursue or one hovering at the edge of our subconscious; perhaps we try to suppress it, concerned about what others may think. Maybe we worry that we're too old; too tired; too unprepared. Negative thoughts that we're not "good enough" are always ready to undermine any tentative progress. But the dream stubbornly persists, nevertheless. It tugs at our heartstrings and infiltrates our thoughts. We have flashes of wistfulness, wondering, "what if?"  We have triumphant moments that seem to move us closer to our desire; at other times, setbacks - no matter how minor - leave us feeling confused and disoriented. And we wonder if the outcome is worth the effort.

Well I suggest to you, any obstacles that may appear are temporary. We are powerful. We have capabilities and strengths far beyond our imagination. We are blessed with magic and possibility. We may try to suppress the light we carry within us - for fear of outshining others - but that does no one any favors. Each of us has a purpose on this earth; a unique talent; a special gift.

"If you bring forth what is within you,

What you bring forth will save you.

If you do not bring forth what is within you,

What you do not bring forth will destroy you." —Jesus, from The Gospel According to Thomas

In the early years of my childhood, my family attended a Southern Baptist Church. The minister shouted terrifying hellfire and brimstone sermons, in contrast to the soothing songs we sang. One that lingers in my memory is This Little Light of Mine. An excerpt:

"This little light of mine, I'm going to let it shine...

...Hide it under a bushel? No! I'm going to let it shine.

Let it shine, all the time, let it shine..."

In 2010, my hope and prayer is that each of us will be bold enough to shine our own light; to follow our own path; to make our dreams real. Why not?

In case you haven't guessed, my theme word for the year is "light." Light as bright as the eyes can stand: sparkling, dazzling, intense light, sometimes filtered in shadow or softened to a candle's glow. Through writing and photography, I plan to shine the spotlight on people, places and issues of interest in Paris, as well as in my travels. Won't you join me?

Adieu 2009. Bienvenue 2010!

 

Wishing you a New Year filled with love and possibility. Ignore the naysayers; simply be the star that you are and let your light shine brightly!

 

 

 

 

Holiday vignettes styled by Gabrielle Turlan. As always, click photos to view details.

Holiday glitz and glamour in Paris vitrines

Bejeweled crown, a faux fur shrug and ethnic prints at Printemps, Paris.

Heavy crystal chandelier lamp on crystal stand.

Holiday table setting, with tall-stemmed lead crystal and Limoge porcelain.

I really like the Napoleon III chair painted white and the aqua satin evening clutch.

A sequinned jacket and bejeweled dress, along with a crown!

  

An egret is featured in this snowy woodland scene.

Bejeweled crown and aqua ostrich feathers.

Proud peacock.

Baccarat crystal chandelier over a festive table.

An elaborate braided headdress in a trefoil design, with a pearl and cabochon ruby frontispiece.

Back view of a bead-studded faux fur coat and braided headdress.

Christmas geese and a graceful swan in faux snow.

A Chinese-inspired gold gilt and red beaded headdress.

Russian nesting dolls.

Preparing for a holiday party.

Seed pearls and bronze beads on wire, fashioned into a sunburst.

Beaded velvet cloak and gown.

A velveteen-covered horse is at the center of this vitrine.

Another elaborate headdress and dyed fur collar over beaded knitwear.

A black bear in this vitrine of knitwear, fur and suede designs.

 

Even a stuffed deer is adorned with a pearl-encrusted gilt frontispiece. More holiday vitrines to follow.

Holiday bustle and cheer

A Bugs Bunny balloon floats above the crowd on Boulevard Haussmann.

Reflections in the Galeries Lafayette building on Boulevard Haussmann.

Crowds on the block encompassing Galeries Lafayette, one of the city's biggest department stores.

 

Crossing the street from Galeries Lafayette.

 

A balloon vendor (at right) on Boulevard Haussmann.

 

A bear in a marshmallow swirl slides down a gingerbread house. So many children had their noses pressed against the glass, I couldn't get near many of the holiday vitrines to photograph them.

Gingerbread girl and beaded bear. And pink satin ribbons! Can one ever have enough pink satin ribbon?

 

Animated bears decorating a Christmas cake.

Leopard-print platform pumps and scented candles.

 

 

An illustrator creating children's names on demand.

Last-minute preparations

A Christmas tree and reindeer in my neighbourhood.

Today I braved the crowds to photograph the last-minute Christmas rush in Paris: the multitude of shoppers; glittering store windows and seasonal decorations. Check back later for more photos.

Hope your own holiday plans are going smoothly. I plan to spend tomorrow baking; my British chef (husband) has responsibility for the main Christmas dishes, including a turkey.

Tall Christmas tree surrounded by miniature potted trees at sunset in Boulogne-Billancourt.

Bonne anniversaire Jordana!

My daughter Jordana in an unguarded moment, Amman, Jordan.

Happy birthday, Jordana! Here's to your first 25 years of love, fun, challenges, opportunities, travel, art and adventure. I hope your future shines even brighter, with endless possibilities for joy and inspiration.

Citizen of the Month's blogger online holiday concert

Vintage Christmas ornaments at my Paris apartment.

He's done it again! The clever and talented Neil of Citizen of the Month is hosting his Fourth Annual Blogger Christmahanukwanzaakah Online Holiday Concert. Go here to listen to songs, watch videos and view photos from bloggers.

Think pink

1950s Royal typewriter and Pottery Barn reproduction phone on an 18th-century wine-tasting table.

I blame Lara Rossignol. It's her fault that I fell in love with her pink vintage typewriter, then scoured the internet to find a similar one. I was lucky to get this one, that's been reconditioned and repainted in that amazing Pepto-Bismol-like pink (which matches the carnation pink plates in my Fiestaware collection). The typewriter arrived last month - complete with its orginal case and magazine advertisement - after La Poste first delivered it to a French guy by mistake. I'm still trying to find time to type a letter!

Tune in this weekend to see photos of my high-tech work space.

Scroll down the page for an additional post today.

Marhaba from Jordan

My daughter Jordana is wearing an antique Palestinian hat, hand-stitched and covered with coins. A similar design is in a museum at the Amman Amphitheatre, Amman, Jordan.

Jordana wearing an old Bedouin silver necklace, Amman, Jordan. Check back later for more images from Jordan.

Similar hats in a local museum.

On the agenda

The day's menu, Barcelona.

On the weekend's agenda: visiting the city's stellar department stores, all dressed up for the holidays (while my daughter shops, I'll photograph window displays); digging through the cave (wine cellar) to find a particular piece of luggage; sorting out clothes and camera gear and tending to last minute details for next week's trip to Jordan. I'll also be trying to find time for walks and catching up with email and blogs.

What's filling your weekend diary? I'll send a Paris flea market find to the reader reporting the most unusual weekend activity or experience. Leave a comment, with a brief description of your weekend plans. Merci et bon weekend!

Update: Judging from the interesting responses already, I can see it will be impossible to choose "the most unusual" weekend activity. So on Monday morning, Jordana will draw a commenter's name from a hat.

Paris Postcards winner

Hortensia, Merci, Paris.

I'm delighted to announce that Megan Butel in Australia is the winner of Leonard Pitt's book Paris Postcards. My daughter Jordana drew Megan's name from le chapeau. Thank you to all those who entered the competition and shared amusing or touching anecdotes about your memorable time in Paris. Here's Megan's story:

"My husband and I went on a short three week holiday having left our very young children with my mother in Australia - it was supposed to be a bit of a second honeymoon. We'd spent a week driving around Ireland - which went well despite me navigating and him having to follow instructions.

"We flew out from Ireland and arrived in Paris on a beautiful, sunny autumn day - it was more like spring than autumn it was so warm.

"After we had checked in at our hotel, we decided to go for a walk - so there we are strolling down the Champs Elysee heading towards the Eiffel Tower. I said something in French. He made fun of my pronunciation and corrected me. He was wrong. I told him so. He asked me what would I know as - after all - he had done French at school. So had I - up to the final year of high school and being younger than him - my experience of high school French was more recent and far broader. He wasn't having a bar of it. Neither was I. The whole discussion quickly disintegrated into an embarrassing public slanging match, culminating in him storming off in a huff back to the hotel.

"So that's what can happen to you on a sunny Sunday afternoon in Paris walking down the Champs Elysee with the one you love. That story happened 12 years ago - and we still can't talk about that fight without it starting another one! I am quite sure we will never feature in a Willy Ronis picture postcard of Paris."

Megan, hope Paris Postcards triggers happier memories of the City of Light!

Paris Photo 2009

Iconic portrait and mannequin, Merci, Paris.

Paris Photo 2009 begins Thursday at Carrousel du Louvre. Photographic work from Arab countries and Iran will be in the spotlight. The event continues through Nov. 22nd. For more information, go here.

As the world turns

As the world turns, Selfridges, London.

Ten years ago today, David and I met in New York. A few months later, my daughter Jordana and I moved to London. A year after that, we moved to Paris, for David's job with an international organisation. Jordana attended high school at the American School of Paris and I resurrected my college French and struggled to adjust to French logic. It was my first experience not working for a salary since age 16; initially I didn't appreciate the loss of steady income and control. To lift my spirits, I began frequenting brocantes, flea markets and antiques shops. Soon our apartment was filled with an eclectic collection of art and antiques.

After discovering the endless bureaucracy required to get married in Paris, Jordana, David and I flew to Santa Fe, N.M. Our wedding ironically was at (French) Archibishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy's private chapel. Jordana's friend Vince played acoustic guitar, while she sang Bruce Springsteen's "If I Should Fall Behind."  A dozen friends witnessed the happy occasion and later joined us for dinner at the Inn of the Anasazi.

We traveled to many, many places in Europe and the US.  At home in Paris, David honed his cooking skills as we hosted hundreds (!) of guests. I became a fan of rugby and horse-racing at Longchamp (although I never bet on horses; just admire and photograph them).  My daughter went off to college in the US.

I started this blog and picked up a camera for the first time in many years. I took Eurostar to London at least once a month. I worked on my novel. I wrote poetry. I campaigned for Barack Obama and worked on human rights initiatives. I had a few health woes, but was lucky to have quality medical care in both Paris and London. I studied Spanish in Seville, Spain and photography in London.

I have lived in Paris longer than any city in my adult life (followed by San Francisco and New York). Ten years ago, when David was a guest speaker at an e-commerce conference (at the World Trade Center) and I a writer, covering the conference, I wouldn't have imagined this life. It's had its ups and downs, but for the most part, it's been rich with blessings. While Paris has never felt like home to me, I know we are fortunate.  Having traveled as a journalist for much of my adult life, I've learned, as John Cage said, that "we carry our homes within us, which enables us to fly."

Balancing act, Selfridges, London.

P.S. Don't miss your chance to win a copy of Leonard Pitt's new book Paris Postcards! Go here to enter.

What's simple is true

A combination of beauty, fragility and strength...

The courage of one's convictions and faith that never wavers...

Unexpected, whimsical delights...

New destinations...

The road to success, always under construction...

"All the great things are simple and many can be expressed in a single word: freedom; justice; honour; duty; mercy; hope." - Sir Winston Churchill.

Photos above 1. St. Mary's Church, South Kensington, London. 2 and 3. St. Mary's, Oxford. 4. South Kensington, London and 5. Oxford.

Indulge in other simple things at Christina's Soul Aperture.

P.S. Scroll down the page for your chance to win a copy of Leonard Pitt's new book Paris Postcards.

Home truths

Bronze ballerina and phone boxes, Covent Garden, London.

You may have noticed that lately I've been a bit quiet on the blogging front. That's due to a combination of travel, work and particularly, health issues. I was born with a hole in my heart, although it was detected only four years ago. Since then, I've been made aware of the importance of remaining vigilant, particularly as heart disease is the single biggest threat to women's health.

Turning 50, unwittingly I joined a high-risk group. Not only do I have a hole in my heart - and therefore more susceptible to migraine, stroke and blood clots - there's a family history of heart disease.  As one Western doctor noted, "Genetics load the gun; lifestyle pulls the trigger."

At the moment I take no medication, only vitamins. But my body is changing; I can no longer eat or drink anything I want and shrug it off. I have to walk and exercise nearly every day to see any effects. I need less stress and more sleep; rarely do I achieve either. 

If I have any dental work done, I must take antibiotics an hour before, due to the risk of infection to the lining of my heart. The key to managing the situation with my heart - just as with any health issue - is awareness. Occasionally, warning signs suggest something is off-balance. Consequently, this week I'm undergoing numerous cardiology tests; the most-extensive ones on Thursday. I am lucky to have good cardiologists and specialist medical attention, as well as excellent health insurance. I shudder to think of the financial costs of such care in the US.

I'm writing about dealing with my heart problem, not to garner sympathy, but to encourage you to see your doctor and get regular medical check-ups. Cardiovascular disease is a silent, stealth killer, responsible for one in four women's deaths. In Europe, 55 percent of women die of heart disease. Cardiovascular disease kills more women than breast cancer, cervical cancer or any other serious illness.

Learn to recognise the warning signs of heart attack or stroke. But see your doctor regularly; don't wait for warning signs. The American Heart Association and the British Heart Foundation have information online about education, treatment and care.

Health care, party bias and the mainstream media

This person dressed like a banana and standing on a plinth is part of an art installation last month at London's Trafalgar Square. But the photo reminds me of the latest over-the-top activities of so-called "teabaggers" on Washington's Capitol Hill.

John Cole's article about the health care debate, the Republicans' just-released "alternative" bill and the clueless mainstream media coverage is priceless:

"Why is this not a bigger story:

"Late last night, the Congressional Budget Office released its initial analysis of the health-care reform plan that Republican Minority Leader John Boehner offered as a substitute to the Democratic legislation. CBO begins with the baseline estimate that 17 percent of legal, non-elderly residents won’t have health-care insurance in 2010. In 2019, after 10 years of the Republican plan, CBO estimates that …17 percent of legal, non-elderly residents won’t have health-care insurance. The Republican alternative will have helped 3 million people secure coverage, which is barely keeping up with population growth. Compare that to the Democratic bill, which covers 36 million more people and cuts the uninsured population to 4 percent.

"But maybe, you say, the Republican bill does a really good job cutting costs. According to CBO, the GOP’s alternative will shave $68 billion off the deficit in the next 10 years. The Democrats, CBO says, will slice $104 billion off the deficit.

"The Democratic bill, in other words, covers 12 times as many people and saves $36 billion more than the Republican plan. And amazingly, the Democratic bill has already been through three committees and a merger process. It’s already been shown to interest groups and advocacy organizations and industry stakeholders. It’s already made its compromises with reality. It’s already been through the legislative sausage grinder. And yet it saves more money and covers more people than the blank-slate alternative proposed by John Boehner and the House Republicans. The Democrats, constrained by reality, produced a far better plan than Boehner, who was constrained solely by his political imagination and legislative skill.

"I seriously do not get this country. The subservience to the Republicans by the media at least made sense when they were in the majority and held the Presidency in 2001. But this is 2009, the Republicans have been routed electorally for the past few years, everything the Republican party believed in failed miserably the last eight years and they have been exposed as total frauds. They released a budget with no numbers on April Fools Day; they have been whipping up teabaggers and gun nuts into a froth for months and screaming about death panels because they have no ideas or solutions and when they finally do release their health care “plan,” it totally and completely sucks. It is nothing but fail, fail, fail, from the GOP: they just lost two more seats in the house; they are going through a horrible (yet delicious) civil war; yet according to the media, everything is bad news for Democrats.

"You know what is bad news for Republicans? They used to be able to get elected and be incapable of governing and as the House elections on Tuesday and the CBO score today show, now they are incapable of getting elected and governing.

"And yet somewhere, Chuck Todd or one of the other Beltway drooling class is typing up their next thought piece explaining how all of this is bad news for Democrats and David Gregory’s staff is probably getting touch with McCain and Boehner’s chiefs of staff to see if they are available for Meet the Press on Sunday.

"I can’t tell what is a bigger joke- the Republicans or our failed media experiment. Three decades of screaming liberal media bias is about the only smart long-term thing Republicans have done in my lifetime."

Brocante at Bastille begins Thursday

Cozy knitted bottle covers, Merci, Paris.

If you're in Paris later this week, the Antiquites Brocante at Bastille begins at 11 a.m. Thursday, Nov. 5. Take the Metro lines 1, 5 or 8 to Bastille or Quai de la Rapee or bus lines 76, 86 or 91. Parking is available at Opera Bastille.

You can buy tickets at the entrance on Place de la Bastille. Stands will be located on both sides of the Canal St. Martin. Stop by #514 and visit Gunnar Pettersson. My friend Sophie Pretelat's Anges et Demons is at Stand #403 and Natalie Cottier is at Stand 55. All three dealers have unusual antiques and collectibles, guaranteed to make you catch your breath in delight!

The brocante continues from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily through Nov. 15th.

Scroll down the page for more posts today.

Bonjour de Paris!

Fall arrangement, Merci, Paris. The traveler pulling her suitcase seems strangely familiar.

Back home after nearly two weeks away. Check back later for photos and stories from my travels: from city centers to an historic castle (and a film set); from ancient Roman mosaics to a rocky seashore; to a sloped-roof country cottage with a flock of sheep in a pasture just ten feet away. Such a lovely break!

Hope you're all enjoying this fine weekend, where in Europe, we've turned our clocks back an hour. I've made some changes to the blog's sidebar. Beginning today, see "Read the news" category for news of note, updated daily. Now I must unpack, then sort through the email, photos and your blogs, of course!

Blog Action Day 2009

Race-goers relaxing at the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe, Longchamp, Paris.  Photo by David Holmes.

Idyllic weather and relaxing afternoons like the one pictured won't be around for long, if we don't address the critical issues of climate change. Recently my friend Julie in Denmark asked if it might take a major European country such as the Netherlands to be under water before people pay attention.

The effects of climate change are widespread, touching virtually every corner of the earth. From glaciers melting in Greenland to waters flooding islands in the Pacific to temperatures rising around the world, climate change is underway. And as more and more people are driven from their homes by rising waters or worse, poverty and conflict will worsen, as the world's refugee population increases. The burden to care for these people will be for us to assume.

World leaders are meeting December 8-18 at a United Nations Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen, Denmark.  Lowering carbon emissions levels, carbon trading and reducing air and water pollution are among the topics to be explored.

In conjunction with the summit, an outdoor photographic exhibit currently underway in Copenhagen shows 100 places to remember before they disappear.

While environmental problems may seem overwhelming, there are small and simple steps we can take every day for a cleaner, healthier more sustainable environment. In conjunction with the photographic exhibit, Co+Life has provided 100 examples of how we - individually and collectively - can solve or counter the effects of climate change.

Besides recycling our paper, plastic, aluminum and glass, we can take public transportation; plan smarter travel; eat healthier foods. American green-living guru Danny Seo writes a blog providing simple, everyday tips, from changing lightbulbs to more energy-efficient models, to revamping or repurposing old furniture.

In the United Kingdom, John Lewis has published a "modern reworking" of a 1943 government booklet about making the most of minimal resources: Make Do and Mend. Follow  Make Do and Mend on Twitter for useful daily household tips

Even our old computers, mobile phones and other electronic products can be recycled. The Environmental Protection Agency provides information about regional and national programs available.

My pet peeve is excess packaging. I'm contacting the manufacturers of products I purchase regularly to ask them to reduce unnecessary and cumbersome packaging. Recently I bought a portable phone charger in London. It took a good 15 minutes, using all my strength to pry open the heavy plastic surround.

What's your favourite energy-saving or recycling measure? Are there specific habits you follow to help preserve the environment?

Join me and more than 5000 bloggers participating in Blog Action Day, focusing on climate change.

Posing for pictures

Posing for photos Sunday at the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe, Hippodrome de Longchamp, Paris.

 

 

The Arab state of Qatar sponsored this year's Arc festivities. This was their hospitality tent.

 

Serving Arabic coffee.

 

 

Chic brown-and-white ensemble.

Waiting in the winner's circle.

 

Friends chatting between races.

Family outing.

Fathers and sons waiting for the big race to begin.

Pleading for a lift up to see the race.

 

Mother and daughter.

 

Matching hair and coat.

Hat and irridescent coat.

 

Directional signs.

 

Sharing a laugh.

Flowers on a trophy case for the Arc winner, Sea the Stars.

More hats and fashion from Longchamp here, here and here.

Trying on hats

Trying on hats at the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe Sunday at Hippodrome de Longchamp, Paris.

As always, click photos to view detail.

 

More hat photos here and here.

More hats and fashion from Longchamp

Photos of hats at the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe Sunday at Longchamp, Paris. All photos by David Holmes.

Watching the race.

H.E. Abdullah bin Khalifa al Thani, special advisor to the Emir of Qatar.

 

Various bands provided musical entertainment.

 

Judging by his hat (and location at the champagne bar), this guy seemed a bit merry.

Horse trainer M. Royer-Dupree is standing behind the guy with the big cigar.
 

 

 

Longchamp information desk assistant.

These gentlemen were dressed in Scottish kilts.

A group of Japanese visitors to the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe.

More photos from Longchamp to come!