Plaza de Toros de Sevilla! It was a cool, windy evening and sand from the bullring occasionally swirled around, mingling with smoke piped from the stage during Joaquin Cortes´s powerful performance of Mi Soledad. His grandmother, well over the age of 90, was walking on her own, as she was escorted through the Entrance Principal.
I arrived at the bullring at 9:20 for a 10 p.m. performance, expecting the procedure would be similar to attending a performance in Paris: standing in line outdoors, having bags searched, before finally being allowed into the theatre. Instead, I was whisked in and escorted to my seat - no waiting in line.
While taking photographs of the bullring and stage, two "teens" seated behind me started saying "Hello, Thank you very much!" They were very entertaining in their attempts to speak English - which was still superior to my Spanish. When they asked if I would take their photo, I was delighted. Manuela (right) is only 12, while his friend Diandrina is 13. While trying to find a pen to write their names, I stopped an elegantly-suited man walking past. Turns out he was the manager of the bullring and sat down and chatted with me.
Two Spanish women who appeared to be mother and daughter were seated on my left. The 30-something "daughter" was elegantly dressed in black trousers, a simple silk top, discreet jewelry and stylish flats. The "mother," 60+, was too tanned, wearing a fake-cheetah mini skirt, a low-cut lyrca top, four-inch heels, flashy jewelry, lots of makeup and her short hair coloured in at least four shades of blonde and red. She never once acknowledged my presence. But at one point during Joaquin Cortes´s performance, he descended from the stage and the woman jumped up and ran after him, trying to get his photo. She returned to her seat, swooning like a star-struck teenager.
The seat to my immediate right was empty. A woman seated at the end of the row overhead me speaking English and asked if she could move to that seat, if the ticket-holder didn´t show. Turns out she was from Tucson and lived in Washington, D.C. She was in town with some friends for the Biennale: two weeks of flamenco performances at various venues. She was also taking flamenco lessons while here. It was fun comparing notes with a fellow American.
I got some photos of Cortes´s performance, but need to wait until I´m in Paris and try to edit the lighting, before posting. And what a performance it was! Without a doubt, Joaquin Cortes is the most confident performer I´ve ever seen. His talent is immense and he knows it. His expert dancing was accompanied by an astonishing ensemble of musicians, including an accordion player, two guitarists, two bongo players and several magnificent singers. The evening was magical. At one point, Cortes talked to the audience about the importance of continuing the tradition of flamenco in Seville and in Andalucia (at least I think that´s what he said). And at the end of his spectacular performance, he was carried on the shoulders of the cheering crowd out into the street!
Flamenco´s influence is everywhere in Seville - in the style of dress, the form of music and the vibrant nightlife. Late Sunday night, someone in the building next door to the hotel started practicing the footwork of flamenco, sans music. At the same time, outside my window, someone else was strumming the guitar. No one ever tells anyone to be quiet in this lively city, no matter what the hour! I´m beginning to think that´s part of Seville´s charm.
How amazing to be sitting in the middle of a bullring! The stories of the locals are priceless...keep 'em coming, please!
Posted by: susan | 04 October 2006 at 22:42
Tara, thank you so much for posting from Seville, about Seville. I haven't been checking your blog because I didn't think you would be able to post for a while. I was so excited to see that you are - I am simply enjoying hearing about your Spanish lessons and life in Seville -it really is quite a treat for me, thanks!
Posted by: Lotus | 04 October 2006 at 04:35
Sounds like the beauty of Spain is shining brighter :) XXOO
Posted by: Tammy | 03 October 2006 at 23:14
all I can say is that it's like being there with you. Your detail in writing about where you are and what the class is like is like a daily travel program. I LOVE it! From the flea market gallery and the owner, to your class ALL in Spanish (eek) to the performance and the um, interestly dressed woman. ALL of it is so visual in your writing I can actually picture the things you don't show. I look forward to each day!
XOXO
Posted by: Lisa(oceandreamer) | 03 October 2006 at 16:41
Have been surrounded by so many performers over the years, I can only say: now THAT's how you end a show! Being carried out on shoulders into the street! Love it! :)
Posted by: Marilyn | 03 October 2006 at 15:35
Oh my, the idea of that mother in the animal print mini reminds me of so many older women in Brasil. She must have been quite the piece of work.
The performance sounds great, and how nice to meet up with a fellow American in the middle of the arena!
I took flamenco in college and loved it. The Uni of New Mexico is the only place in the US where an accredited degree program in flamenco is offered. I just did a couple of classes, but it was so much fun. I'd love to see how it is "for real" in Spain.
Posted by: Ali la Loca | 03 October 2006 at 11:34
Tara, great visuals, I had to chuckle at the mother and daughter. A slight role reversal there I think. I bet you were amused. The cold shower thing would be totally frustrating. Glad things are starting to smooth out. We are starved for more....keep it coming.
Peace and giggles
Posted by: happytiler | 03 October 2006 at 09:34
Chica!
What a wonderful description. I can't wait to see the photos of Cortes. That's what I would love about Sevilla, to be able to practise my footwork and no one would be disturbed by it!!!
Posted by: Colette | 03 October 2006 at 05:28
What a wonderful description of the evening! Thank you for letting us (your readers) 'sit in' on it with you! The picture of the young people is so lovely too!
Posted by: Deborah | 03 October 2006 at 04:05
What an exciting performance that must have been! Can't wait to see the photos :)
Posted by: Becca | 03 October 2006 at 02:44
thes photos of your trip are really great.
Joaquin Cortes, eh?
hope you are having the trip of a lifetime.
xxx
Posted by: madeleine | 03 October 2006 at 01:01
Tara,
Ah, what a wonderful lilt to your voice. Your enthusiasm is infectious. I can't help but feel bouyed by your desciption of your visits.
You are a great ambasador!
rel
Posted by: rel | 03 October 2006 at 00:13
I'm living vicariously through you and your time in Spain Tara!!
Posted by: kristen | 03 October 2006 at 00:00
This sounds wonderful - thanks for sharing your experiences!
Posted by: twitches | 02 October 2006 at 23:30
I'm adoring these posts from the road ... it's magical and I'm glad you're loving it.
Posted by: Di | 02 October 2006 at 22:00
You are really making the most out of your trip. I love that!
Posted by: Britt-Arnhild | 02 October 2006 at 21:15
I'm so enjoying this adventure of yours! It sounds so wonderful. Wish I was there too!
Posted by: jzr | 02 October 2006 at 19:51
Tara, I am having such fun reading about your trip. :)
That lady and her daughter remind me a little of my own mom and me, LOL! Not that my mom wouldn't talk to you. She would talk your ear off. But she might do it in a crazy mini skirt. *snort*
:)
Posted by: Amber | 02 October 2006 at 19:19