She spotted it right away, but pretended not to notice. In French, she asked him to show her Russian religious icons, one after the other. But she wasn't interested in Russian icons; not today.
Before that afternoon at the brocante at Parc des Princes, she'd never been interested in daggers. But at first glance at the antique dealer's table, she could see one was very special. Four ancient ceremonial daggers were lined up in a row, their scabards gleaming; the handles studded with semi-precious stones. Casually, she asked to see the one she liked least. He detected an accent and began talking in English about his days at university in Scotland. He went on and on, caught up in happy memories, no longer paying any attention to trying to sell his antiques.
"I'm not English," she said. He looked crestfallen. "But your accent?..."
"I'm American," she responded. "Perhaps you think my accent sounds a bit English, because my husband is British."
"Ah, that's it," he nodded, knowingly. And he kept talking about Scotland, about his English girlfriends at university; about the fierce winters that made him long for the desert.
She asked him to show her another dagger. It was beautiful, but not unusual. Finally, she asked to see the one that had made her inwardly catch her breath.
As he drew the dagger from its silver and bronze scabard, she tried not to react at the rare sight of the hand-carved keyhole and hand-etched design. She brushed aside his talk of the ivory handle, inlaid with coral stones. She shrugged and said, "Yes, it's nice. How much?"
"550 euros," he replied gravely. She laughed. "You might as well stab me in the heart with it then."
"350 euros," he offered. "No, I don't have that kind of cash with me, but thanks," she said, shaking her head and turning to go.
Then she looked back at him and asked, in Arabic, "Do you speak Arabic?" "Do I speak Arabic??!!" he exclaimed. And the words came tumbling out, one after the other, so fast she could barely keep up, as he told her his story. She listened, nodding and trying to make appropriate remarks in the flowery language she hadn't attempted for ages. After a few minutes, she asked, in Arabic, his best price for the dagger.
"For you, 100 euros!" he shouted, beaming. "Thank you," she responded, smiling as she handed over the cash. And he, too was happy, even though he'd dramatically undersold a 200-year-old piece.
Antique Syrian dagger, which has not been cleaned in many, many years on top of a Lehnert & Landrock photograph.
Close-up view of the silver and bronze dagger's keyhole design.
A 19th-century Moroccan silver coin necklace purchased Sunday from another dealer at the brocante - no bargaining required. The coins rubbing together sound like little tinkling bells, as you walk. The mosque image is part of my collection of Lehnert & Landrock photographs.
Scroll down the page for a second post today.
Thank you for the lovely compliments! I appreciate you taking the time to write. How I'd love to visit the markets in Iran! Sounds like you brought home some good finds. I've just been reading your blog about your Iran adventure and would have loved to be along, photographing it all and just observing. It's rare that a Westerner gets such access and I appreciate your posts about your trip.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 18 March 2009 at 21:13
Very cool. Dutchbaby turned me on to your impressive blog. I love those old photographs. I just got back from 10 days in Iran and visited the markets in Tehran, Shiraz and Isfahan. Mostly filled with Chinese junk, sadly, but I got a beautiful chainmail handmade belt for my wife, and a necklace of old coins that look very much like the ones in your photo. You can read about my Iran adventure at my blog at www.williamhorberg.typepad.com. Bravo!
Posted by: William Horberg | 15 March 2009 at 01:52
WOW! These photo collages (or whatever they may be dubbed) are wonderful!I know that I should be commenting on the story but I'm not always known to do what I should :-)
Hope all is well with you and yours :-)
bisous
Posted by: susan | 13 February 2009 at 20:46
Well I'm not always so lucky, Di. But I'll be happy to try. Still waiting to hear the dates for the March version. Will let you know soon.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 13 February 2009 at 11:15
If we get to the Ham Fair together you can do all my bargaining :)
Posted by: Di Overton | 13 February 2009 at 10:28
I hope so, Relyn! Certainly I won't forget it. Thanks for the lovely compliment!
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 13 February 2009 at 08:57
Oh my, oh my. I am still catching my breath at this wonderful post. I am thrilled for your good fortune and the joy it brought to me in the form of story and magic images. I've traveled a little bit - only a little - and I've always been amazed at how much it seems to mean to people when you know even just a little of their language. You charmed that antiques dealer and created a new memory for him. I bet he thinks the price of your encounter was well worth it.
Posted by: Relyn | 13 February 2009 at 05:35
Merci bien, Cathy! I appreciate the encouraging words.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 12 February 2009 at 19:25
Your last two posts are phenomenal...I need to visit you more often, lol, this is so inspiring
Posted by: Cathy | 12 February 2009 at 18:39
Merci bien, Melanie. Am looking forward to that post of yours!
Posted by: Paris Parfait | 12 February 2009 at 17:19
I love your souvenirs de voyage . You made me want to write a post about Voyage . I'm going to do it at the end of the week
Posted by: Mélanie Aussandon | 12 February 2009 at 10:12
Thanks, Steph. Aren't the Lehnert & Landrock photos wonderful?
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 20:01
Marilyn, thank you. I adore the necklace too. Both pieces have such character.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 20:01
It was one incredibly lucky day for me!
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 20:00
Tara, what a story! I ADORE the photographs with these incredible objects.
Posted by: stephanie | 11 February 2009 at 19:09
Very sly you are! Love the dagger, but really love the coin necklace. What a lovely collection of pictures too.
Posted by: marilyn | 11 February 2009 at 18:00
Another delicious story and not only is the dagger beautiful but I love the idea of the coins tinkling together. Lovely!
Posted by: Di | 11 February 2009 at 17:19
Toma, I appreciate the kind words! Once in a while these treasure hunts actually yield treasure, right? You know all about that.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:28
Thank you so much! It was one very lucky day.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:27
Thank you, Deb. I was lucky - when he mentioned about the cold winters in Scotland and wishing for the desert, I had an inkling that he may have had an Arab background. But with his green eyes and fair skin, I wouldn't have known otherwise. And his wife was Parisian.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:26
Yes, the L&L photographs are timeless in their beauty. Thanks for the kudos. And wouldn't it be great to know the history of the ceremonial dagger?
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:25
It's wonderful - of course I'm not sure that I'll actually wear it, as it's so old and more of a decorative thing. But just to pick it up and hear it jingle is wonderfully melodious. I have an antique silver prayer necklace from Yemen that makes a similar sound and I do wear it on occasion.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:24
Hi Susan - Lovely to hear from you again. Sounds like you have quite a few haggling stories of your own to share. I'm quite sure if I were French, that dealer would never have lowered the price so dramatically. Sometimes being a foreigner is an asset.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:23
It is lovely, isn't it? For some reason, in the photo some of the coins look almost bronze, but they are all silver.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:21
Movie? I'm still focused on the book. But thanks for the encouragement. :)
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:21
Yes, to know the history would be fascinating!
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:20
Merci bien, Colette! It was a lucky day. I also found bits of lace, some Napoleon III silver and some prayer books from the 1800s!
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 11 February 2009 at 15:20
Excellent blog today.... I'm so not worthy!
Posted by: The Antiques Diva | 11 February 2009 at 12:18
Fantastic story! I'm so impressed how you kept your cards so close to the vest. Nice to have a bit of Arabic to toss out when in need.
Beautiful photos - brilliant idea to place the objects on beautiful photos.
Posted by: dutchbaby | 11 February 2009 at 06:57
It's amazing what happens when one forms a real connection! You are not only good at the bargain, but great at the art of connecting. What a lovely find :) xx, deb
Posted by: JanePoet ~ JP/deb | 11 February 2009 at 05:53
Incredible! I am all warm inside, after reading this. I wonder what stories, this piece holds? The pictures, the pictures...bliss. : )
Posted by: Christina | 11 February 2009 at 04:30
That dagger really is gorgeous. And those photographs--amazing!
I'd love to hear the tinkle of that coin necklace!
Posted by: Wonders Never Cease | 11 February 2009 at 03:39
Aaahhh, for me it is the Moroccan necklace that has me breathless...
Posted by: Graciel @ Evenstar Art | 11 February 2009 at 03:26
Hi Tara! I'm enjoying your writings so much... I'm so grateful to have found you through Maryam in Marrakech! I just had to comment on this post because we, too, love old daggers. Ours were purchased in Istanbul and your story of the bargaining process brought back so many wonderful memories. When my Turkish husband and I would be searching for old pieces (or anything, for that matter!) I would just smile (hum... I know it sounds terrible) and let him do the talking because the MOMENT they thought I was a yabanci (foreigner) the prices would rise astronomically! I know a few words of Arabic (many are similar to Turkish) and somehow it has always worked out fine! What a lovely adventure for you. (and yes, John, please PLEASE sit down!!)
Posted by: Susan | 11 February 2009 at 01:50
You're so awesome! This story is gonna be in the movie, right?!
I love these photos, too.
Posted by: tangobaby | 11 February 2009 at 01:39
I wonder what tales that dagger could tell , if indeed the dagger dared. Ahah!
Posted by: Pam aries | 11 February 2009 at 00:09
Baraka!
Good for you. I love this story.
xxoo
Posted by: Colette Copeland | 10 February 2009 at 22:45
Hi Judith - thank you! I haven't lived in Amman since June 1993. But I still have quite a few friends there and am hoping to go for a visit late this fall.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 10 February 2009 at 21:08
It's funny how some dealers really don't like to bargain. And sometimes I don't bother even trying. But with this guy, I sensed he liked to talk, so I kept talking, with a happy result! As for languages, neither my French nor my Arabic are very good, but I can get by.
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 10 February 2009 at 21:04
Why thank you, ma'm! You are kind!
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 10 February 2009 at 21:03
Great story, Tara ... .
not many could toss in the "do you speak Arabic"!
Also, just love the way you photographed these pieces over the beautiful
black & white photos. Well done ... . Judith
p.s.
I've been wanting to ask -
were you in Amman in the mid 90's?
Perhaps we have a mutual friend :-)
Posted by: judith | 10 February 2009 at 20:59
Score! I love a good haggle! The dagger is beautiful. I adore the flea markets in Paris and unfortunately speak very little French (and no Arabic :-), so I manage to do all my bargaining on handy little notebook I keep in my pocket. It seems to work :-)
Posted by: BJ Lantz | 10 February 2009 at 20:31
Tara, how can you continue to surprise?
This is beautiful. and GREAT photographic record.
cool.
Posted by: Chris | 10 February 2009 at 19:37
Ha ha - my Arabic is very basic; I think he was impressed that I knew any at all. And it was a gamble asking if he spoke Arabic. He had green eyes and didn't look Arab. But he had said the Scottish winters made him long for the desert, so I thought it was worth a shot. Am I glad I took the chance! :)
Posted by: Tara Bradford | 10 February 2009 at 19:22
Wow! I want to go antiquing with YOU! (But I know no Arabic, so I'm hosed.) That's a gorgeous dagger--what a treasure. He's probably kicking himself now for being mesmerized by the lovely American who can speak Arabic. How about we make you an ambassador?
Posted by: RD | 10 February 2009 at 18:33